Savage Mod 11 VT .308, need some advice

So this is my first rifle in about 25yrs. and I am wanting to make into a decent long range shooter that will still be usable in the field if need be. Currently I am looking at the Chaote Tactical Custom stocks. After doing some reading this is my understanding. My current rifle uses the 110 action, its centerfeed, has the bolt release on the bottom in front of the trigger guard and has a 24" heavy barrel. The stock for this rifle houses a plastic frame (bottom metal?) that acts as the magazine well and the magazine snaps into it not the action. I have read people are using the Chaote stocks with this rifle but i'm a little confused on how its accomplished. I am assuming they buy the stock for centerfeed short action (4.40) and then order the bottom metal separately with magazines to fit the new bottom metal. Does this sound about right? If so, what components (manufactures) would you suggest? Will other Savage parts fit? Can I even find bottom metal with the lower bolt release? Thanks in advance.

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Originally Posted by thercman

I have read people are using the Chaote stocks with this rifle but i'm a little confused on how its accomplished. I am assuming they buy the stock for centerfeed short action (4.40) and then order the bottom metal separately with magazines to fit the new bottom metal. Does this sound about right?

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Exactly correct. Some of the early 11VT's had a separate bottom metal (plastic) that could be switched to the Choate, but the newer ones house the bottom metal as an integral part of the stock. You can call Savage to order the two parts (you'll need both the bottom metal and mag to fit it) I know that there's some aftermarket stuff available, but not sure who it's from. I'm sure somebody will chime in here with that info.

So the first thing I bought was a new bolt handle from Glades Armory. That it is a nice little add on and makes it easier to cycle the bolt. I also picked up a 20 moa base and some shorter scope rings. (I had extra highs on it temporarily) At this point I'm undecided on whether or not to buy a new scope before or after the stock. Currently I am using a Leapers 6-24x56 scope which is probably adequate for now. So maybe having a better platform should be my priority. Cabelas has Bell and Carlson stocks on some of their rifles so I had the opportunity to see the build quality up close. I would imaging they are pretty comparable to the Chaote stocks. They are definitely stiffer than the original stock I have but it does flex a little at the fore end if you push on it. Is that a concern for accuracy? The bi-pod mounts right at the flex point. If the stock flexes say 1/32" on one shot and not the next that's a miss at 800 or 1000 yards right? Or am I over analyzing it? Somebody suggested I purchase a used McMillen. I haven't scanned the classifieds yet... Any thoughts?

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Originally Posted by thercman

Currently I am using a Leapers 6-24x56 scope which is probably adequate for now. So maybe having a better platform should be my priority.

Cabelas has Bell and Carlson stocks on some of their rifles so I had the opportunity to see the build quality up close. I would imaging they are pretty comparable to the Chaote stocks. They are definitely stiffer than the original stock I have but it does flex a little at the fore end if you push on it. Is that a concern for accuracy? The bi-pod mounts right at the flex point. If the stock flexes say 1/32" on one shot and not the next that's a miss at 800 or 1000 yards right? Or am I over analyzing it? Somebody suggested I purchase a used McMillen. I haven't scanned the classifieds yet... Any thoughts?

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I would agree on the stock being a priority over the scope....for now.

I'd imagine that whatever flex you may have in a stock would be consistent, but you still don't want it. I have no experience with the B&C stocks, but I know the Chaote is an excellant unit. I have a 1" bull barrel on mine and it doesn't move a bit. Yes, if I grab the barrel and stock at the front end and squeeze them together I can get some movement, but it won't budge by itself. Let's not look for problems that don't exist.
McMilen is a good unit too, but you'll have to decide if it's worth the extra $$$. Too me, it's not. My Chaote stocked rifle will shoot sub MOA at 600, so I don't believe it's holding me back in any way.
Sounds like you're working your way through this wisely, good for you. The 20MOA base and good rings were a must have. A house is only as good as it's foundation :)
Too bad you're so far away. I'd let you take my extra Chaote stock for a test drive.

Okay bad news... It turns out the scope might be the priority after all. I just purchased a bore laser to re-adjust my scope since I put the new rings and base on it. Whenever I make adjustments to the Parallax knob the point of aim shifts. :( I was just about to order the Choate non-adjustable stock and a Kydex cheek piece. *sigh*

I am not following you on the POA concern.

Parallax adjustment is intended to correct bad POA. Meaning, without parallax adjustment, if you do not have perfect and consistent hold and eye alignment directly behind the scope, your POA will shift if the parallax is not set properly for your range to target. Therefore, I would expect the adjustment WOULD (and SHOULD) change when you adjust the parallax setting on the scope. In my mind, all is well.

Forgive me if you already understand it this way and are just observing that it does not work properly.

So with the rifle on the bench and my eye looking through the scope (not moving my point of view) I adjust the parallax in order to focus the image. When doing so the cross-hairs shift up and left.

Focus is the secondary consideration. The big concern is that your POA meets the POI. I believe what you are observing is the correction that your adjustments are making.

Try this:
Purposely set the parallax for wrong range... try 500 yds when actually aiming at 100 yds... if the image moves as you move your head a bit,(but still looking thru the scope), the parallax is adjusted wrong (just as you would expect b/c you set it for 500 and are only at 100). What you see there is the effect of bad parallax adjustment.

Now set the adjustment to the correct yardage... move your head around as before, still looking thru the scope. If the POA does not change, it is now adjusted properly and your scope is fine. Sometimes, the markings on the adjustment ring are wrong. Adjust it 'till its clear and see if the image moves when you move your head a bit. ALso, I have read that sometimes the adjustment knob needs to be "bottomed out" before re-adjusting each time. (always start at lowest setting before attempting to focus each time you change yardage.)

So I went back to the bench and took my air rifles with me and performed the same adjustments with them. While the POA does appear to shift slightly the Leapers cross-hairs physically shift a bit. Something is loose in the scope. :-( I sent an e-mail to the company. I am hoping they will honor a warranty. The scope is about 10 months old and barely used.

Here is a quick shot of my diy bench and one of my air rifles. :-)

https://scontent-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hpho...13521275_o.jpg

That's an impressive-looking rig!

BTW, I have read, and it sounds reasonable enough to be true, that if you use a lead sled, or strap it down as shown in your pic, you can break the reticles b/c the recoil has nowhere to go. Not saying it's your fault, or that the reticles shouldn't tolerate the practice, but it would support the theory you have broken reticles.

Thanks! The strap in the photo is just there to keep the rifle from falling onto the ground. I don't shoot it that way... Maybe the inexpensive scope I have just shouldn't be with this caliber. I am looking to get a Vortex. However I may just put the Bushnell back on it for a awhile and get the stock anyway. I really can't afford the $800 for the scope at this point. I need to wait until October for that. At least with the stock I'll have a stable platform to shoot from while learning the rifle....