Re-barrel my 308, 10 FCP-K or move up to 300 Win Mag HS?

I am getting started in the long range tactical competition game. I currently have a 308, 10 FCPK that I am considering re-barreling as a 6.5 Creedmore or as a 260. I think the long bullets for the 260 will not fit in a magazine so I’m leaning towards the Creedmore.

This past weekend I watched a tactical match where the targets were set out to 1200 yards. I talked to a guy that has a Savage 300 WM, HS Precision rifle. He had a Badger Brake installed and said it doesn’t kick much. I expect the concussion is something to behold especially if your shooting next to him. Anyway, It looks like the 300 Win Mag is the end game in long distance shooting for the course since the rounds cannot exceed 30 caliber.

I am considering either putting a really nice barrel on my 10 FCP-K (accustock and accutrigger) or selling it and buying a Savage 300 Win Mag HS. I reload for my 308 and would do that for my 6.5 and or 300 Win Mag.

I’m looking for any input on which direction I should go? I do not invite recoil/concussion but I can live with it if it gives me the advantage in windy conditions. I suspect the 6.5 calibers are pretty competitive out to 1000 yards in the wind. I think I will pay for the advantages of the 300 Win Mag in kick and cost per round. Another advantage of buying a 300 Win Mag is I can buy one that is almost ready to shoot. I would have a gunsmith install a break but I think that is about all that would be holding me up. If I re-barrel my 308 as a 6.5 I think my time to range will be longer. I think the barrel wait times are in the months. Then I might consider upgrading the stock at sometime. I think the Accustock contour might limit how thick the barrel can be so what I would buy to put in my Accustock might not be what I would want to put in an upgraded stock. Maybe I need to upgrade the stock and re-barrel at the same time.

If you suggest the 6.5 Creedmore or 260, what barrel would you suggest I buy. I would like it to be a very high quality drop in barrel for my 10 FCP-K Accustock. Weight is not important and maybe heavier is better so I can stay on target and spot my shots. I would like a cut riffle barrel. Be as specific as you can on the barrel recommendation. It would be great if you can provide me with a barrel stock number and a place to order it. I know that is asking a lot but I would appreciate any level of suggestions!

Thanks
Eric

I built my Long Range 300 win mag on a Stevens 200 action. I put in a Rifle Basix trigger, a Shilen heavy Stainless varmint contour barrel, a JP Tank Brake, and opened up the stock barrel channel for non contact. It has the Millett 6X25X56mm scope on it. Since I am doing this on a budget, and doing it a little bit at a time, I still have the stock to change, but it is performing very well even with the Tupperware stock. The JP tank brake reduces recoil on this to about that of a 243 Win. The back blast is terrific, and if you are going to be shooting prone, get a very good mat to help keep from being sand blasted by the back blast. I thoroughly recommend the 300 win mag for your long range stuff. I do have a 6.5, one of the old Sweedish Mausers still in original configuration. I am very impressed with the 6.5 even in this old rifle. I will be building a 6.5 284 sometime in the future, just have to start getting the parts a little at a time. I usually haunt the pawn shops for my donar rifles, but in the case of my 300, it was cheaper for me to buy the Stevens 200 new and use it for the donar.

Thanks for your response Blitz. I think the Savage 110FCP HS PRECISION 300WIN can be had for under $1100 and that is complete. Add another $200 for a brake installed and your talking $1300 with no build necessary. Do you think you can build a comparable gun for this price? I'll bet the Shilen heavy SS varmint contour barrel is better than the stock Savage barrel.

My 308 FCP-K shoots really good until the guns heats up. I don't know if its a mater of fouling or just the heat loosens it up. I usually clean the barrel every 100 shots. I think the cold harmer forged chrome molly barrel gets fouled quicker than a SS barrel. That is one of my concerns buying a stock 110 FCP HS. I don't know what to expect from the 110 FCP HS in terms of diminishing accuracy as I shoot it in a match (usually 60+ rounds). The diminishing accuracy being due to heat and fouling. LOL and probably my conditioned response to the concussion (FLINCH).

Thanks,
Eric

I like the 300 win mag But I like the bc of the 260 and would suggest the 260 in a CBI barrel from Jim at Northlander, Here on the site! Great guy to deal with.

You can build a pretty decent rifle for 1200.00 out of parts.The biggest expense is the stock,used recievers are on the classifeds,in fact there is a stevens action,new with a trigger on here so get goin and build your own and have the pride you did it yourself.You only need a reciever wrench and barrel nut wrench and a go gage.We can help you do it at home for way less than paying a smith.

With the high BC of the 6.5/260 calibers and velocity around 3000 fps you will be very close to the ballistics of the 300WM at 1000 yds in terms of drop and windage; close enough that the main difference will be your ability to read the wind. Unless you want to hunt long range, or just enjoy getting pounded by recoil, you don't need more for paper. Also note that you cannot use a brake if you wanted to try F-class, and some ranges will not allow either.

I've got about $1,300 in this one right now, and by the time a find the stock I want and get it properly bedded, you can add at least 200 more to that. Hard to beat an out of the package like that for the price. Mine will probably be more tolerant of quicker shots, but who knows, time and experience will tell.