Can a Savage synthetic stock be bedded?

I just picked up a new Savage 16FHSS in 270 WSM (for $370 couldn't pass it up). It has the accutrigger but not the accustock. I took the plastic stock off last night. The stock is very skeletonized...not much material there. Has anyone tried bedding these stocks? The "pillars" if you call them that, seems like they would not be very effective. I haven't shot it yet. I'm waiting on the mount and rings.

How accurate is it with this stock and will there be much improvement in accuracy if I can get this bedded? OR should I just order a stock from the Stockade? Do the Stockade stocks need to be bedded or is it just a "drop in." I've got a couple of Rem 700s but this is my first Savage, so any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

many threads here on the subject. it is a patch for limited funds, not a fix. don't wast your time with a bipod on it, they flex to much. You will end up further ahead if you get an aftermarket replacement.

They can be improved if you fill the forend with metal and epoxy to stiffen it some. it will still flex at the recoil lug area.
any stock can be improved with bedding.

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You will end up further ahead if you get an aftermarket replacement.

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Agreed

I have bedded a couple of them for the heck of it. They are all hunting rigs and I dont shoot them off a bag or with a bipod so the flex is not a major issue. I think it's worthwhile for a hunting rig.

Thanks. This is exactly what I am going to use it for... a hunting rig. I will try bedding it and if it doesn't work out, I guess I can always order a better stock then.

I bedded a 100 270, it drives nails @ 100!

I just bedded my 116 FCSS a couple nights ago. I'm using it off of a rest, I just keep the bag under the front of the action near the barrel nut. Not much flex. I will be using it for hunting as well. I plan on getting a McCree Precision stock for everything else.

I will try to bed two carbon arrow into the stock to make it more rigid.

I did mine last weekend. Went to the range and shot 9 (5 shot groups) with 4 groups in the .4s and 5 in the .5s. I also added weight to the rear of the stock. It was shooting around 3/4" before bedding the stock.

I didn't change my loads so what else can it be? :)

Some will say to buy an after market stock which is fine but if you can spend $22 bucks to bed the stock and shoot around .5" groups why not? My goal is to shoot in the .3s consistently so I "might" need a new stock then.

So yes, it can be bedded. :)

I have bedded a few and all were an improvement.
I'm getting ready to Bed my new Predator.
Also I make sure the barrel is free floated well.
I shoot off of a Bipod and get better groups than off of bags.

I've oftened considered modifying the synthetic stock on my savage weather warrior 223. It seems fairly straight forward to fill the voids in the stock with thickened epoxy. Is there a recommended type or brand of epoxy? I have on hand a supply of epoxy and filler used for wooden boat construction. Of course, this would add significant weight, but not really an issue with a bench rifle.

There is a new West System Epoxy out Called G/Flex is supposed to work on plastics.
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com...+-+West+System.

I have some on hand and intend on stiffening the forend with this magic goo over some Carbon fiber Tow. I think I will also paint some down around the recoil lug and tang area then fill it in with Marine Tex. When ever a few extra steps, more time and money can be expended I am in for it. roughing it up and wiping it down with alcohol seems safe enough, putting the torch to it might be interesting.

John

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Originally Posted by dnunn

I've oftened considered modifying the synthetic stock on my savage weather warrior 223. It seems fairly straight forward to fill the voids in the stock with thickened epoxy. Is there a recommended type or brand of epoxy? I have on hand a supply of epoxy and filler used for wooden boat construction. Of course, this would add significant weight, but not really an issue with a bench rifle.

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Devcon "plastic steel"

Heres the strangest idea. I have plenty more

Often wondered if you could "A" relieve the forearm (remove gussets as usual)
"B" heat a square rod to red hot and melt it into the stock below the recoil lug and just push it in up to the pillar. Allow it to cool and if (big if)the plastic fully surrounds and adheres well it would add support behind and beyond the lug.
Of course it would be needed to epoxy the bar into the forearm as usual. Just wondering if its possible to melt it further back into the stock to strengthen the juncture between pillar, lug and forearm. Seems to be the weak spot of the fix.

Maybe, just maybe the winters are getting too long

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Originally Posted by jo191145

"B" heat a square rod to red hot and melt it into the stock below the recoil lug and just push it in up to the pillar. Allow it to cool and if (big if)the plastic fully surrounds and adheres well it would add support behind and beyond the lug.
Of course it would be needed to epoxy the bar into the forearm as usual. Just wondering if its possible to melt it further back into the stock to strengthen the juncture between pillar, lug and forearm. Seems to be the weak spot of the fix.

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By getting 1/16"-1/8" depth relief around the pillar, then bedding with Devcon, you will get the same effect. That stuff is hard, hard, hard!

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Originally Posted by jo191145

Maybe, just maybe the winters are getting too long

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Things are looking up......at least, the geese think spring has sprung. :)

I took a lot of plastic out of a Ramline stock with a die grinder one time. Filled it in with Devcon and carbon fiber tow. The Devcon seemed to stick to the plastic alright. It turned out very stiff but very heavy also. The Ramlines are heavy to start with.

John