Savage 11 ( new bolt design ) assembly pictures

Hey guys,

I took a snap shot of my new bolt design. Also noticed some members asking how the springs go together.
It is a new design - I think savage is trying to speed up or cut down on machining costs.
What baffles me is why they use 2 springs in the main body?
Why not just tackle the pin retaining spring and main spring in 1 shot..... And then a single round coil between the two. Such stupid logic.

Does a bolt lift kit exist for this setup? I am not sure how one would incorporate it any way.
I am looking to lessen the bolt lift on this new rifle, Wife says it takes quite a bit, And I agree.

Removing that single coil helps a bit, I will be polishing mating surfaces in the days to come.

Take care guys

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/40/oir5.jpg

I see that you state this new bolt and bolt parts came off of a Savage model 11. How old is your rifle, when did you purchase it?

24 hours ago, Jan 28/2014 Alberta Canada

I purchased mine in early January 2012

doverpark12

Remove tat stupid single coil in the spring pack. Bolt lift is easier, But I think 1-2 coils more needs to go.
Just finished polishing every mating surface with 1200 grit. Took 4 hours roughly. Some what better. I suspect the geometry of things will not allow any one to make this a butter bolt lift ever. Possibly if you send it into the gunsmith for timing and truing.

We also have no luxury of the bolt lift kit as our bolt has an indicator through the BAS.

The "ring" between the coils has a purpose. Removing it will only lighten the spring pressure and give you ignition problems.

My bolt lift is right up there with the smoothest I have felt. Thats one of the reasons I like the rifle so much when I bought it. I think when I took the bolt apart and put it back together the lift is actually slightly grittier/stiffer.

I have found over many years of shooting savages the bolts tend to become smoother with use, i have a model 11 that has been a switch barrel for many years and is butter smooth because of the round count through it. I have a new 10 fcp-k that is stiff at the moment but it only has 10rds through it so far.

I have also found that easy to open bolts can open while being carried, since it has happened to me in the past.

Adding a .080" shim ( washer or similar flat round stock with a .550" diam hole serves us well here ) between the BAS and the bolt handle. I will experiment in the days to come for light strikes on varies ammo brands and report back.

I have polished key contact areas such as the bolt handle cocking angle ( not sure on the name ) and all the springs and inside of the BAS. I will take pictures for you all if any one is interested.

Bolt lift has become silky - But not much different in terms of the force it takes to open it.
Adding the shim in there has changed it drastically - 40% at least.... And I can change it back to stock in 35 seconds. No main spring chopping here!

Take care

I know, their engineers can't know what they're doing. I believe your design was tried on the original Edge, and it work SO well they changed the Axis to this.

Procule I would be interested in some pictures for future reference.

Why don't you remove all the springs... it would cock real easy then.:p

Hey Ferd, can the new style bolt guts be swapped out with the old style bolt guts?:confused:

Bill

Yes, it sure can.

I would urge everyone to note Fred's first comment above as it's actual and factual. There's certain things you learn when you work on Savage bolt guns day in and day out, and having the engineers at Savage on speed dial doesn't hurt matters either. Who's opinion do you want to trust - an unknown new guy's or arguably the most widely recognized, knowledgeable and innovative Savage gunsmith in the country?

Just saying...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BillPa

Hey Ferd, can the new style bolt guts be swapped out with the old style bolt guts?:confused:

Bill

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Fred, is there an advantage to doing this? Lock time, maybe?

The big advantage is adjust-ability. The lock time doesn't mean squat. If you use the solid BAS, you can add the lift kit.

The benefit of using the guts from an older savage 11 would be that the bolt lift kit would work.
The only contact parts of this bolt are where the cocking button rides the bolt ( cocking ramp ). Other then that its the lug to receiver friction and the main spring pressure on the BAS.

I suggest if any one wants to lighten the bolt lift is to polish all the springs, cocking ramp, inside the BAS, fireing pin ( where the springs ride ), cocking button ( where the button touches the ramp ). And then just throw some washers in there like I mentioned before. 30 second question and you can vary the amount you use to either go back to stock or to lessen the pressure and thus making the bolt lift lighter + making the spring tension less ( potentially light strike ) ?

Just my contribution to those who might be interested. Best this "new guy" can do.

Looks like you could just buy an old style firing pin and the rest of the proper parts and replace that new one, along with a new BAS and then you can do your Bolt Lift Kit. Looks like they simplified production by eliminating all those small parts that use to make up the firing pin assembly. A new complete firing pin assembly is around $20 available at Midway, then you'll need the cocking peice available there as well and the BAS. For around $30 you can replace what you need to.

Not so easy for Canadians, but yea azgunnut youre right