Do you need the ejector assembly and extractor assembly installed to properly head space your barrel?
I can't find them in stock anywhere. Signed up for email alerts and back ordered at Gun Shack. Want to get my barrel swapped so I can get it painted and closer to being completed. Going from WSM to 260 so none of the bolt head parts carry over.
Hell, it seems like I could actually fire the gun with out those parts. I'd just need a cleaning rod for extraction! lol.
Thanks
Vince
they are not needed to head space
drybean
No you don't. Go ahead and set headspace and add the parts as you get them.
I thought the extractor assy. was the same.
You can order all the push feed bolthead parts directly from Savage. They're not restricted parts.Quote:
Originally Posted by SERE VG
P/Ns...
Extractor 100139
Extractor ball 100214
Extractor spring 100257
Ejector 100129
Ejector spring 10031
Ejector retaining pin 100130 (If you want or need one)
I don't think I missed anything.
Bill
Thank you all for the info!
When I called Savage I was also trying to order the bolt head and was told by a obnoxious service rep that all bolt parts had to go through a FFL. I'll save the rant on that conversation and their policies for another day.
A bolthead yes, the parts for it, no. I've ordered and received those parts numerous times.Quote:
Originally Posted by SERE VG
Bill
Bill,
is the part number for the Ejector Spring correct? It looks like it's missing a digit.
Hey Bill,
Is the ejector spring's number missing a digit by chance? I only ask because I see that all the part numbers have 6 digits except the ejector spring which only has 5. Just thought I would ask.
I think I spoke to that same lady.
You might try to order the parts using the partfinder page on the Savage website. I haven't looked that closely at bolt parts, but several of the parts I DID look for were available for order directly off that page.
Or check with Numrich's. I picked up some things from them recently.
Good luck.
Actually it's best and common practice to strip the bolt as far as possible, whenever possible, firing pin, extractor, ejector.
Why ?Quote:
Originally Posted by ShawneeB
Thanks again,
I realized the front baffle might be different as well. I threw one on my order when I ordered the firing pin assembly and some other parts. Once the baffle comes in, I'll go ahead with the swap. I'll call Savage on Monday and order the final parts.
I would like to tune the ejector(?) so it does not throw my brass very far. I'm thinking of ordering multiple ejector springs and trimming them to adjust the tension. I searched but did not find a thread on this. Probably using the wrong key words to search.
Any threads on this? Am I on the right track, with trimming the ejector spring?
Thanks again for the help, it's been invaluable on this build.
Vince
The primary reason is so that the ejector doesn't force the headspace gauge too far forward. We want to ensure that the headspace is minimal - or at least not excessive.
By removing the ejector, the bottom of the case head (or head of the headspace gauge - this could be confusing...) rests squarely on the bolt face. The gauge can't be pushed forward by the ejector.
I set my headspace using a go gauge only. I screw in the barrel until it nearly locks up with the go gauge. Then, I tighten the nut to make sure it's nice and snug. I then cycle the bolt a few times to make sure I'm comfortable chambering the gauge. I can always feel the gauge seat as the bolt goes fully into battery. It might be a bit snug compared to what other folks do, but I load my own ammunition and size my cases to accommodate the snug chamber.
I'll check it with a no-go gauge afterward, but there's pretty well no chance that the bolt will come anywhere near closing on that gauge if I do as I just described.
I hope this makes sense
If you have any other questions, this is a good venue to get semi-informed answers.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hotolds442
Sorry 'bout that...its 100131.
Bill