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I'm considering using a factory Tupperware stock for a walking hunter build. What have you done to stiffen these stocks up and make them useable ? Has anyone filled in the hollow portions of the forearm with epoxy or fiberglass resin or something else? I've read of some using an aluminum arrow embedded in the forearm and then epoxied over. What about weight in the butt for balance?
When I get it all ready I will paint the stock.
Ideas? Experience?
You might want to wander into the Axis sub forum as there are several very good DIY threads on exactly what you are looking for.
You will lose the light weight aspect, if you do that.
On a Hogue stock for a .308 I have, I used some steel threaded rod about 3/8 dia..cut a channel in the fore-end with a dremel and glued it in with some epoxy. No more flexing using a bipod.
The Tupperware stock's recoil pad comes right off and you could fill it with anything...plumbers putty works and is reversible.
I have not noticed the Savage stock flexing as much, but it's only a .22.
How far back did you place the rod? Did you get it past the recoil lug? Action?Quote:
Originally Posted by airfoil
The rod was placed as far forward as possible and back to just in front of the recoil lug...However this is on a Remington 700, and may be somewhat different than yours. I used JB weld for glue and the channel was cut a bit small so the rod sort of snapped in. It's holding up well so far.
Are they not stiff enough for hunting without a bi-pod the way they are ?
Aluminum U channel from Ace hardware running the entire length on the inside of the forearm. Rough up the plastic, epoxy or JB weld in place, drill a hole for the sling stud, and you are set. Very lightweight and very stiff.
The cheaper Hogue stocks as well as most other plastic stocks are kinda flexy...if your barrel contacts the stock in a inconsistent manner, accuracy declines.
I have done a couple factory stocks, by bedding in a couple steel rods. It helped a little but they still flex. The issue is the flex point is in the recoil lug area and it is very hard to get the rods past that point. You will still need to open the barrel channel up a bit to stop the stock from hitting the barrel if using a bipod.
I am looking to stiffen up a 223 stock. Ive read mixed reviews on the outcomes of epoxys sticking to the plastic stocks even when degreased, roughed up, drilled and acetone is used. How long will my stock last until I end up with a new stock?
"How long will my stock last until I end up with a new stock? "
Only one way to find out...really it's usually until you bite the bullet and buy a good stock...how much money 'ya got?
How long will it last?
I bought my beloved 30.06 Stevens with the Tupperware Mossy Oak stock back in 2006. After the 2nd time shooting from a bipod I added 2 steel rods & epoxy to take some of the flex & bounce out of it.
A little counter weight in the butt of the stock to offset the heavy barrel & I still use it to this day. Frequently. It is my favorite caliber and favorite rifle. This week, anyway.
My beloved '06:
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/...la/pics002.jpg
Go ahead. Have a go of it. The plastic stocks can use every bit if help you can afford it until it gets replaced with a nice expensive stock.
I suspect most of the Tupperware stocks are made of polyethylene, which technically is a WAX. Nothing much will stick to it for long.Quote:
Originally Posted by jon8777
However, I have read how the Gougeon brothers of West System epoxy fame have successfully bonded to polyethylene by scorching it with a propane torch on the bonding surfaces first. This apparently changes the PE enough at the molecular level that epoxy (or even paint) will bond to it. Might be worth a try, or at least a phone call to West System tech support to get their skinny on it.
You can also drill small holes randomly and at odd, opposing angles throughout the area to be bedded. This creates a mechanical lock that will hold the bedding material in place. It will last as long as the bedding material lasts (Forever?) Whether you are satisfied with the results or not depends on the type of shooting you do. It may be fine, but if you use bipod, the forearm under the barrel will likely flex enough to prompt you to replace it with a better stock, in spite of your efforts to try to stiffen it. I have had fairly good results with this, but eventually I decided it did not suit me and I replaced them.Quote:
Originally Posted by jon8777
I used 80 grit paper, the tang end of a big file & a long flat blade screwdriver to "prepare" the area in question. Still holding on strong.
You'll notice the inside of the barrel channel feel slick. Gouge the boogie snots out of it and you'll be ok.
PS - The other suggestions / ideas above are worth a try as well. Get creative. Your only limitation is your imagination....
I epoxied mine about 4 years ago and gone everywhere with it. Nothing is loose or coming out. Take a dremel with a wheel that looks like a rasp and go all over it where you want to epoxy. Then flush it with acetone and let dry for an hour or so in hot sun. Don't use cheap epoxy, get the 2 ton stuff or better. I used 1/8" thread rod and they worked very well on my '06.
I started with a stock that was bedded around the action and recoil lug. Then, I used aluminum U channel as well but I chopped up some fiberglass and laid it in the barrel channel as well, both below and above the U channel. I poured fiberglass resin (mixed with hardener) in to fill all of the voids. I taped my barrel with 3 or 4 layers of blue tape with the last layer of tape covered in neutral shoe polish so the resin wouldn't stick to the tape. I placed the barreled action in and rubber banded it to the stock. Used play-dough to keep the resin from coming back toward the action. I sanded some edges down where the fiberglass formed to the crinkles in the tape but it wasn't bad.Quote:
Originally Posted by dcloco
Much stiffer now and it didn't add much to the weight of the stock.