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Is there that much importance in action screws torque to make a big difference in group sizes? If so,what can one excpect in group shrinking? Does different gr bullets react to different torque settings or once the torque setting done for one gr type will it be the best for all gr, bullets and powder charges?
In my experience, the torque on the action screws can sometimes make a big difference, and sometimes not. It's generally the last thing I work on when seeking better accuracy. Proper torque is not, from what I 've seen over the years, caliber or bullet weight sensitive, so once you've got them properly torqued, the rifle should be good to go with everything you feed it. The improper torqueing of the action screws can upset the harmonics of the barrel, so I just snug 'em down "finger + tight," and spend my time with seating depth, primer selection, powder type and charge, and proper case preparation. The effort expended in these areas has always paid more accuracy dividends than experimenting with action torque settings. The only notable exception to this is tuning the Ruger #1 series of rifles, which display a LOT of sensitivity to the torque level of the forearm screw.
With proper bedding I have found torque to not change a thing accuracy wise. The bolts are tight enough to keep from falling out and have the action pulled onto the pillars and the Devcon with rear of recoil lug tight to the bedding. Nothing more and nothing less in my experience. Remember MANY benchrest guns are epoxied into their stock with the only screws holding trigger guard on.
If you're gun has a proper action to stock fit, put your time into load development.
Edit: I do torque my screws, but not to any certain setting but rather so the front and rear are the same. It's a habit, I torque everything at work because I have to and I just like consistency.
I have heard the above two post from many. I use Target Actions and torque the front two screws evenly and the rear 10 in pds less. This is just a personal thing with me as I feel the front two screws should be even.
Some don't use the middle screw.
This subject seems to only come up on Savage Actions only. I don't believe any other manufacture has recommendations. I have talked to some of the top shooters, and they all state: Put a good snug on them and go shoot.
Dennis
I always thought the same, given the use of pillars. But I plan on torquing the screws to the same spec that I bed the rifle with, maybe 20 inch lbs.? That just makes sense to me.
seems to me if the action is pillar-bedded properly, the action is only touching the very top of the pillars when done. The screws should turn easily then suddenly STOP when tight. If the screws turn a bit or gradually tighten, even a little, then it is an indication there is something binding the action. That should not happen.
Without pillars, the screws will compress the wood or the plastic stock material and so it is more necessary to measure the amount of torque that is applied so there is consistency. In that situation, applying stress in a certain configuration and order can prove better than another configuration and order. However, the best way to avoid any problems is to just pillar bed it properly to begin with.
Right on foxx......+1
If you would see an advantage to torqueing action screws you would then have a good indication that you have a bedding problem, and the action is being stressed.
That, too. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by 82boy
Where were you guys when I had this debate ?:noidea:
:) Don't know, RP.
Don't think anyone is disagreeing all that much, though. If I hear them right, some guys can't help but measure how much they torque anything. Certainly can't hurt to be the same. 82boy agrees with me, but cautions if you DO see a difference, there's something wrong with the bedding job. Fix it.
I know I have found it helps to torque a certain way (each of mine were different, only learned by trial an error.) Once I pillar-bedded, it did not seem to matter. And the one time I noticed a "gradual tightening of the screws" (after bedding) was possible, I re-did it. Much happier after that.
One of the largest NightForce dealers in the country torques the rail to the action, and also torques the rings to the scope. He definitely believes in this.
Just wondering why.
Out of habit and being a tech all my life, I torques my PTA's front to back 30-30-20. Again, it's a personal thing and I have no clue if it's doing any good other than satisfying me.
My guess is to be sure their tight, but not damaging anything. Rings can be too tight, I know. Don't want to bind the tube. It can inhibit internal adjustment and misalign the lenses so you get parallax-type distortion and the like. So I am told.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dennis
One of the most important areas to have functioning at top performance to ensure consistency at the range and from the blind, is that 12 inches between your ears. All the things you do to your firearm and your reloads that build your confidence, are absolutely necessary. Torqueing screws, dusting out primer pockets, hand seating primers; no matter what it is, it helps feed your confidence and thereby improves your chances of "puttin' 'em all in one hole!" When you're squinting through those sights, and you've got your mind telling you that you've done all you can to ensure the accurate flight of that projectile, you're way ahead of the game.
Interesting article on the subject:
http://www.accurateshooter.com/techn...-tuning/print/
Very interesting and informative. As a hunter, my accuracy needs are not as great as those of a bench rest shooter. These guys and gals take the shooting art form to a whole different level! If I can get all five shots of a group touching, at 100 yards, on a regular basis, I declare the load and the rifle to be accurate enough for this old country boy. But for those who wish/want to squeeze more out, this could be valuable information and an excellent technique to try.
I believe somewhere in a past post is the recommended procedure for torquing the screws for Savages accustock. I couldn't find it but someone else may know how to find it.
Don't believe everything you read, learn to read between the lines.
You will not find very many center fire Benchrest shooters that will torque stock bolts. Rimfires are a totally different animal, and what works for them will not work on a centerfire gun.
I found the post link on torquing down an accustock in the 110 based rifles section in the Sticky for gunsmithing tips FAQ's. Couldn't cut and paste from my tablet so sorry no link.
I for one see no mechanical reason why a rimfire rifle benifits from torquing down action screws but a centerfire doesn't but I am willing to learn. I don't know any benchrest experts so can't ask one about his technique but IMHO based upon reading and personal experience a loose connection between action and stock negatively impacts accuracy. My money is on a properly bedded action torqued evenly down with a free floated barrel but since I am but a sample of one I recommend reading and experimenting. Isn't that half the fun?
I agree with Pat. If a rifle is properly bedded then the torque needed is tight enough so the bolts don't come loose when shooting. Which in my case is good and snug.