Pre-1968 model 110L Value?

Hello, I'm new to this site and hoping for a little guidance. I recently acquired a model 110L in 30-06 with serial # 35XXX. It is a beautiful rifle but I'm not left handed. Looking to sell it and get something else, but have no idea what it is worth. No scope, just open sights. From my research, I have determined that it is pre-1968 but not sure if that impacts the collectability of this rifle or not. I will try to post some pics soon. The blueing is almost perfect. The stock has some scratches.

Any input would be much appreciated!

Also, any idea what the manufacture year is based off that serial #?

I found this. It may help date your rifle. My 110L is #57XXX and the oval reads (10S) which would date it as 1968.

"Until 1969, year of manufacture was encoded in a letter stamp enclosed, with two numbers, by an oval: J=1958, K=1959, L=1960, M=1961, etc. After that, Savage deemed company records adequate for dating rifles by serial number, which had begun at 1,000 in 1958. In December 1968, a new serial system began: A001001."

Many thanks, it is stamped with a "9P" which puts it at 1964. Now any ballpark figures as to what it is worth?

[/QUOTE]You must read the rules on buying and selling. I think you just stepped in it, LOL.:nono:

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Originally Posted by RP12

You must read the rules on buying and selling. I think you just stepped in it, LOL.:nono:

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Sorry! Fixed it, ooops!

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Originally Posted by geargrinder

I found this. It may help date your rifle. My 110L is #57XXX and the oval reads (10S) which would date it as 1968.

"Until 1969, year of manufacture was encoded in a letter stamp enclosed, with two numbers, by an oval: J=1958, K=1959, L=1960, M=1961, etc. After that, Savage deemed company records adequate for dating rifles by serial number, which had begun at 1,000 in 1958. In December 1968, a new serial system began: A001001."

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Wouldn't "10S" be in 1967?

I have a barrel here marked (10S), that has the counterbored breech for the old style bolt heads made pre '66.
Where did you find that info?

P would be 1963, not 1964
S would be 1965, not 1968

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...ctionStamp.jpg

As for the value of the OP's rifle, it's really hard to say without knowing anything about it's condition. Assuming the bluing is good (90% or better) and the stock isn't all beat up I'd say somewhere in the neighborhood of $250-300.

These older Savage 110's aren't nearly as desirable due to several significant differences between them (pre-1966) and newer models (post-1966). The triggers, stocks, bolts and barrels are vastly different, are not interchangeable (for the most part), and there's no aftermarket support for the pre-1966 stuff.

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Originally Posted by sharpshooter

Wouldn't "10S" be in 1967?

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Apparently I need to find a new line of work.

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/e...t_padToSqu.png

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Originally Posted by sharpshooter

I have a barrel here marked (10S), that has the counterbored breech for the old style bolt heads made pre '66.
Where did you find that info?

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I found it here.

http://archives.petersenshunting.com...110-turns-50/2

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Originally Posted by J. Baker

P would be 1963, not 1964
S would be 1965, not 1968

As for the value of the OP's rifle, it's really hard to say without knowing anything about it's condition. Assuming the bluing is good (90% or better) and the stock isn't all beat up I'd say somewhere in the neighborhood of $250-300.

These older Savage 110's aren't nearly as desirable due to several significant differences between them (pre-1966) and newer models (post-1966). The triggers, stocks, bolts and barrels are vastly different, are not interchangeable (for the most part), and there's no aftermarket support for the pre-1966 stuff.

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Looks like Savage skipped the letters O and Q for date stamps. That would align your list to the information I posted. Thanks for the scan. Great info.

There are a few mistakes in that article.

True, but when there isn't a whole lot of information out there sometimes you have to pick the pepper out of the fly doodoo.

Most everyone skips the letters I, O and Q in terms of identification/serial numbers as it's to easy to mistake them for something else.

Is it an I or a 1?
Is it an O or a 0?
Is it a Q or an O or a 0?

Yeah, I figured that once I noticed which ones were missing. Makes sense. Those stamps can be tough enough to read when it isn't a tough letter like O's and I's.