Getting most accuracy out of 10 fcp-sr .308

I got a 10 fcp-sr in 308 to do some medium to long range shots. Max is about 800 yards. I am going to a precision rifle course in January and the gun has to be able to shoot 1 MOA in order to use it in the course. I am getting 3 shot groups in 1 inch at 100 yards using 168 grain federal gold medal match sometimes, but not consistently. The match ammo is much more accurate than the remington core lok. The core lock has 2-3 inch groups at 100 yards. I have some 175 grain that I can shot about 1.5 inches at 100 yards. I am shooting off a wood bench using caldwell deadshot bags. Very little wind.

Any suggestions on how to tighten these groups up? I have a vortex viper 6-24 pst first focal plane scope that seems great. I can zoom right in and hold the reticle on the dot. Working on breathing and hold on the gun to minimize gun movement.

I have not taken the gun apart to check torques or anything. I did check the rail to make sure it is tight before I put the scope on.

Any suggestions. I know this thing should consistently shoot 1 in or better at 100 yards. Anyone have any idea what I am doing wrong?

Thanks

Larry

Have you verified the barrel is properly free floated?

I like the old dollar bill test. Wrap it around the barrel holding the 2 ends and see how far down it slides between the barrel and stock. Should go all the way to the barrel nut. If not try take it apart and re-torque the action screws. If it still doesn't then you may need to do a little tweaking either removing material or other means.

Otherwise keep practicing. It takes a a lot of practice to shoot half inch or less groups even if the rifle is capable of it.

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I did check that. Stock does not touch the barrel at all while on bag or bipod. I did shoot a group with the barrel lying on the sandbag and these were all way high. I was shocked that pressure on the barrel made that much difference.

I have a Savage 10 FP that I almost sold that I though was inaccurate out of the box because it did not like any boxed ammo I threw at it. I was also going to send the scope back to the factory to get checked as well.

I initially shot some 308 mil surp stuff to get it on paper and it was all over the place. I then moved to some American Eagle 150 gr that was nothing to be impressed with either and then moved on to some 180 gr Winchester as I was still playing with scope mounts, etc. The 180 gr Winchester got the groups down to about 1-1.5 moa but still not what I was looking for.

I now have some handloaded 168 gr AMAX with 41.5 gr of H4895 that I reloaded for my Norinco M305 that I will try on it.

Just guessing that this is going to be a rifle that will be very accurate once I get the right bullet weight and oal right for this setup. If I get at 1 moa with these handloads I'll be relieved as the rest should just be coming up with the right jump into the lands, etc.

I'll dig up what I've found for others who have handloaded for this rifle as they have posted on the coal and bullet/charge combo that they found worked best. I'll also look for the factory ammo that others swear by as well and post that.

PS Mine's in the folding Choate stock and there are torque specs to follow so as not to over/under tighten the stock to the action. I did this as well as use a steel Warne rail and steel tactical rings with everything with a touch of blue Loctite so nothing is moving on this one.

I'm going through my rifles one by one and handloading for them now and the Stevens 200 I posted on this forum is now .3-.5 at a 100 with 75 gr amax and 23.3 gr of H4895. It wasn't bad with factory ammo but much better with these loads.

My next focus is this rifle and a Norinco M305 once I can get out to the range as there is a big blizzard warning over here. :)

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Originally Posted by hardhat

I got a 10 fcp-sr in 308 to do some medium to long range shots. Max is about 800 yards. I am going to a precision rifle course in January and the gun has to be able to shoot 1 MOA in order to use it in the course. I am getting 3 shot groups in 1 inch at 100 yards using 168 grain federal gold medal match sometimes, but not consistently. The match ammo is much more accurate than the remington core lok. The core lock has 2-3 inch groups at 100 yards. I have some 175 grain that I can shot about 1.5 inches at 100 yards. I am shooting off a wood bench using caldwell deadshot bags. Very little wind.

Any suggestions on how to tighten these groups up? I have a vortex viper 6-24 pst first focal plane scope that seems great. I can zoom right in and hold the reticle on the dot. Working on breathing and hold on the gun to minimize gun movement.

I have not taken the gun apart to check torques or anything. I did check the rail to make sure it is tight before I put the scope on.

Any suggestions. I know this thing should consistently shoot 1 in or better at 100 yards. Anyone have any idea what I am doing wrong?

Thanks

Larry

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LoneWolf is putting you on the right track. Also when you do the dollar bill thing apply a little down pressure on the barrel and it will probably touch. I found that out on mine and had to relieve the stock down to the aluminium spine. I'm also installing a rail in front to help make the fore end more ridged. The HS Precision stock I think is more ridged than the HS with the wide beaver tail fore end of the FCP-SR. Then when you re install the action make sure it is setting in the stock right and properly torqued down. Also make sure the scope rail is installed right. There is no loc-tite on the screws to the rail.

I'm heading downstairs to check mine again since the retorque.

I can apply significant pressure to the barrel without pinching the dollar bill. I put it on the bipod and pushed down on the barrel at the end hard enough to lift the back. No problem. Then moved hand closer to bipod and pushed down harder. Still did not pinch the dollar bill. Stock does move some, but did not move enough to contact the barrel.

Our you running a suppressor or brake on it? No particular reason I ask this other than maybe the recoil factor. If I hadn't had a different stock on mine before they sent me the new one I'd have sworn the rifle was bad. Another thing to always check is parallax. Mess with it and make sure it is adjusted right. And again check the base.

No brake or suppressor. 10 fcp-sr right out of the box. Haven't touched it. Just mounted scope and went to shoot. I did check that the scope base is tightened down before putting the scope on. Using seekin's low rings 6 screws on front and 4 on back ring. I have tinkered with parallax. The vortex viper scope allows almost no eye movement from side to side or up and down at the higher magnifications. Your eye has to be pretty much dead on or you can't see the image well.

Recoil is not terrrible, but I was getting beat up a little bit. I had a sore on my right elbow that would drag on the bench from the recoil and that hurt. I don't think I'm flinching too much, but I haven't filmed myself shooting, so can't swear to that. I am definitely anticipating the recoil. I'm hoping that the problem lies with me and I'll get better with practice. I'm not having trouble holding the reticle direcly on the target and lining up the lines of the reticle with those on the target.

I know this is not a shooting technique forum, but I'm holding right hand on trigger and stock and holding rear bag with left hand and squeezing with left hand for fine elevation adjustment.

hardhat you can get a good brake from Ross Schuler for as cheep as $40 and it will be worth every dime. Make sure if you get one from him you have him bore it for a 308 unless your gunsmith would be doing the install. It can at least take some of the mystery out of the equation.

Check to see if the rear tang is floated.Also,I put one of those thick foam hunting seats under my right elbow when shooting.Makes it more comfortable,especially if you're in a t-shirt.

Also you may find you shoot better on a lower magnification. I've been using a fixed 10x and just recently switched to a fixed 12x. I think about 12,but no more than maybe 15 for longer shots is perfect. I can stay on a 6in steel plate at 887yards with the 12x from my 308 Axis.

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I have a 110fp that I shoot 41.5 imr4895 with 168 smk but I set them at -,020 off the lands and get great results. this is a Tupperware stock with no pillars in the stock. I have a set of pillars and plan on bedding the rifle to see how much better my groups get.

You will find a load it likes, keep the barrel clean during your process to find the right load.

I have several hand loads that will produce <.250 100 yard groups. 168 and 175's seem to work the best. Sometimes factory loads just won't work except you will probably find one for hunting.

I bought one, bedded it, tweaked the trigger and now refuse to sell the gun. I use it for hunting.

HSM is some of the best factory loads I have ever used, if you can find it for your 308.

Dennis

Rear tang is free floated. I can shove paper in there until it hits the safety. I am going to order some different 308 ammo and try it. I have been cleaning the barrel regularly. I cleaned it after every round for a few rounds, then after every three, then after every 5 to start with and then shot about 30 through it yesterday and cleaned after I finished. I wasn't letting the barrel cool any, so that could be a factor too.

Accuracy lies in barrels and bullets, this is where you need to be paying attention. I have never found a Savage yet that out of the box, could not shoot around 1/2 MOA. Most accuracy problem lie in the scope, just because it is new or a brand name doesn't mean that it is good. Make sure the scope is parallax free. Make sure you have some sort of wind flags out, shooting without flags (Notice this is plural.) is a waste of time. Try shooting the barrel dirty, every Factory Savage barrel I have ever shot, shot better with at least 20 rounds down the tube. Don't worry about barrel heat, and shooting fast, now granted you don't want to over heat the barrel but it takes a lot of shots to get the barrel to this point. you should be able to shoot 10 rounds in 5 minutes without a problem, then let the barrel cool down. The common myth that you need to wait between shots is a bunch of crud. Don't worry about floating the tang, torqueing the stock, or the crown, again these are common myths that don't mean a thing. Last off nothing replaces trigger time, so spend some time at the range. Like the old saying goes how do you get to Carnegie hall? Practice Practice Practice.

Thanks for the pointers. I am going to order some different types of ammo and just try some different stuff to practice.