You can view the page at http://www.savageshooters.com/conten...sassemble-Bolt
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You can view the page at http://www.savageshooters.com/conten...sassemble-Bolt
Great job!!!
Thanks...how does one remove the ejector and extractor?
I'll look into doing another how to thread on that also. If you need to know asap pm me and I'll help u thru it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Big_lu_lu
Thanks for this! Just about to use a bolt lift kit and your disassembly instructions are much better!
I was working on a build, and it just seemed like a great time to snap some pictures and make a "How To" thread on it since it is a question that often comes up. Figured if it saved at least one person some trouble, it was time well spent. Glad it helped you out.
Great job on the instructions!
Wow, I can do that, I think? Thank you
I have a BAS that the hulk torqued. Even the above advice didn't work :(
Dang. You just need a fatter person to hop on it.
Seriously though, try soaking it with kroil for a day or so.
Got it! I put it on a piece of scrap laminate flooring and got a combat boot on. I was having difficulty due to the softness of my carpet and rubber of my shoe.
I'll admit that stepping on the bolt/allen wrench was a bit scary, but dang, if it didn't do the trick!
Thanks Boots!
Glad it is helping you guys out. Remember to use a decent quality Allen Wrench when doing this. Those cheap, soft Chinese made ones can snap or round off before it breaks the bolt loose.
Your trick worked great! So…... how often should a bolt be disassembled and cleaned? Should I use an Ultra Sonic cleaner on any parts? And how much of what kind of lube should be used and what parts should or should not be lubed?
Me personally. If it is a hunting gun, I will take it apart and check for dirt and grime and wipe the parts down. as long as there is still and oily feel to them then I'm good to go. With oil based lubes, less is more. Too much oil will slow bolt parts during their travel, especially in sub-freezing weather. You should have a light oily film on all the internal parts.
You can sonic clean, but I have yet to have one dirty enough where I thought I needed to.
Sorry for the delay in my reply. My life has gotten exceptionally busy the last couple months and I have not had much time for the forum.
Thank you, mine was stuck big time, everything said it should come off. Pretty new gun too. I had both on the same side and have used that often on other things, this one was too stubborn and that including rubber mallet and then light steel tap.
I modified it a bit, took off the rear baffle before as it slide forward and around and off, I used a rubber mallet on a towel on the work bench (wood) and off it came.
I tried everything to get the darn BAS off my 10 BA stealth bolt, I am a pretty big and strong fella and no go, standing on it with two feet (300lbs) while pushing a 45 lbs Olympic weight plate down on the bolt handle, no go. YouTubers just left the bolt in the gun for "leverage" but they did say it "would not be this easy if it was the first time" Talk about an understatement! Ridiculously, super, hulk-like tight! So finally but the bolt in my 35-pound Pony heavy-duty vice with pipe jaws protected bolt body with leather wrap and whacked bolt handle with a 6-pound hammer a bunch of times. Then and only then did it give. No damage to bolt, thank God. That thing can take a nuke, I'm sure now. I don't understand why it needs to be so **** tight.
Have a 116 FSK in 338 Win Mag mfg in July 1994......the BAS is Stainless, but old style slotted screw....anyone know where I can get a stainless BAS in the allen wrench current style...contacted Savage they said its part of the bolt mechanism and therefore part of the receiver ...thus an FFL item...ugggghhhh....
desperate for advice..