Grease on the bolt/reciever lugs

How much,where,and what kind do you use?I realize this is a simple question but as I have been working on the lift,lock time(purely bubba calib.),and generally just noseing around in there, I've noticed a significant difference in feel and sound as the sear breaks and FP makes its' little trip foward.Been using Gunzilla BC10 on a number of other weapons and yesterday stripped all lube from interior of the bolt and the lugs and reassembled the action with just the BC10.Usually use Tetragun or Rig grease on the lugs-wipe and burnish in on the FP assy.,and get a butter on ricepaper feel.The Gunzilla has proven to stay remarkably clean in my semi's under extreme conditions but the "feel" on the boltgun is a bit different.Just thought I'd ask what you all use-where-and your results on later inspection. Thanks Old Cabinfever Bark

Hmmm. Never have greased the lugs.

my neighbor a very experienced shooter and tinker convinced me to use high grade lithuim grease in the small tubes availble at hardware stores. i love that stuff it great!!

bob

I'm not an expert but I believe I remember that one wants to be careful with grease around the firing pin if the rifle is going to be used in very cold temps; there were some problems with misfires due to friction on the firing pin.

As for the lugs, different story. Benchrest people intentionally make the case (cartridge) fit very tightly in the chamber so that the case is held tightly with no slop at all (for accuracy purposes). In order to avoid any chance of galling on the fit on the lugs, grease is used. I got some "gun grease" at local gun store and am using that. Be careful that the grease does not get into the chamber. There you want FRICTION when the case expands under ignition, and some clean out the chamber with an acetone-soaked patch to be certain no lubricant is left in the chamber.

You're right about the firing pin so try to stay clear of it. I do, however, put a little on the cocking cam itself since it is a high friction area as well as the locking lugs. You could really use about any kind of grease. If nothing else you can even use multipurpose auto grease like what you grease ball joints, tie rod ends, etc. with and it won't hurt a thing as long as you keep it off the firing pin in really cold weather.

I use Sinclair or Shooters Choice gun grease on the lugs and the cam areas. It works for me!

Bob

Rigs is my favorite for low pressure and Tetra for high pressure (M1A roller). I like to keep it minimal.

I have used Lubriplate with good success, and Purple Passion. I grease the back side of the bolt head lugs, and the front of the baffle, you have to relocate the spring washer or when the baffle turns it will just wipe off all the grease. I also grease the cocking ramp.

I found that a product called Bolt magic is awesome, it is not a grease but some kind of oil. Just take a couple of drops of it on the cocking ramp, and rub it over the bolt body, and bolt head with your fingers, and the bolt becomes super slick. Don't know exactly what it is but it sure does work.

When I had a rifle built by Darrell Holland, part of his break-in instructions was to use anti-seize compound on the lugs to prevent galling. I've been using Loctite C5-A copper based anti-seize lubricant on my bolt guns ever since and it seems to work fine.
Charlie

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Originally Posted by 82boy

I grease the back side of the bolt head lugs, and the front of the baffle, you have to relocate the spring washer or when the baffle turns it will just wipe off all the grease. I also grease the cocking ramp.

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Don't forget the primary extraction cam.

Bill

Sewing machine oil or regular gun oil. It's never failed me, my bolt actions, my ARs, or my sewing machines. The trouble is......the first time I close the bolt on a cartridge, most of it is gone.

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Originally Posted by BillPa

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Originally Posted by 82boy

I grease the back side of the bolt head lugs, and the front of the baffle, you have to relocate the spring washer or when the baffle turns it will just wipe off all the grease. I also grease the cocking ramp.

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Don't forget the primary extraction cam.

Bill

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Primary extraction cam location please?

If you want to keep the baffle from taking all of it off the lugs put it on the lug recesses instead and when you close the bolt the lugs will still be going through some grease on the lug recesses. Of course what ever the baffles take off there will still be a small film of it on the back of the lugs.

I have some powdered teflon and was thinking of using that to lube the bolt with for cold weather.

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Originally Posted by Bark

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Originally Posted by BillPa

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Originally Posted by 82boy

I grease the back side of the bolt head lugs, and the front of the baffle, you have to relocate the spring washer or when the baffle turns it will just wipe off all the grease. I also grease the cocking ramp.

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Don't forget the primary extraction cam.

Bill

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Primary extraction cam location please?

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Well I'm not Bill but here goes. The point indicated on the lower right are the primary extraction cam surfaces. I use moly based assembly paste. Its a thick grease which seems to stick better and resist getting wiped off. The 5 points indicated are where to grease, another point [out of focus, sorry] would be the bolt handle extraction cam surface that mates with the lower right point shown. Very light oil applied then wiped off on the internals.

http://www.hunt101.com/data/500/medi...ube_points.jpg

I lube with "gun butter" at points shown in above photo, works great.

great picture and info

thanks

bob

Been using Shooters Choice Gun Grease since day one with the Savages on the bolt lugs, lug raceway, and cam. Have had no issues in cold weather, central Ohio.

would saf-t-eze anti-seize work? it's a nickel anti-seize compound from fine particles of nickel and graphite in a heat resistant lubricant. anyone ever use it?

I've never had any problem with just the lightest rub of STP off the finger tips on to the contact areas. Of course do not allow dust or scum to accumulate by regular cleaning. From the old school, was taught to clean gun after each use not allowing dirt time to cause wear. ;)

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Originally Posted by DennisH87

would saf-t-eze anti-seize work? it's a nickel anti-seize compound from fine particles of nickel and graphite in a heat resistant lubricant. anyone ever use it?

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I guess it would work, but it sure would be messy. My experience is it gets thiner with heat, and if you get it on your clothes it will not come out.

Back from the dead only because I didn't see any other threads about this, and thought I'd see what people had to say now about this subject.

I've been using FireClean, which is a great product, but I'm not sure it's thick enough for this application, and I'm thinking about switching over to a grease for the bolt lugs. Actually was thinking about using synthetic disc brake lube, which is designed for the high temps of disc brakes. I've got a couple different kinds in the shop. The CRC stuff I've got says it contains moly, ptfe, and graphite. I've also got a buddy that says he uses wheel bearing grease on his. Thoughts?

I've used Shooters Choice since the company first offered it for sale and the benchrest guys jumped on it. Back in those days I only owned 700 remmys. Nice sticky stuff that stays put, slippery, and cleans off nice when its clean up time.

I have used nothing but All Temp Tactical Lube for the past six years ever since it came on the market. My decision was based off a recommendation by an engineer that is a very good friend that was in the mining industry and was a competition shooter. He used molybdenum grease that they used on the machinery for his rifles. Molybdenum is a key chemical used in and during the production of steel and acts as a lubricant and moisture repellant from my understanding. This stuff will not attract dust and carbon wipes off. Expensive, maybe yes, but then I see people buy $2,000 guns and complain about a $40 bottle of lube that will last a year or two depending on how you apply it makes me wonder :der:, so bottom line for me is it worth it with out a doubt.
Here is the website address for you all to give it a sniff: http://alltemptacticallube.com/