Took Bolt Apart on Mod 11 Today ..You Tube Video is Wrong !

Well left the house early and went to Lowe's to get a allen wrench for my bolt take apart. Went to the section and grabbed a 6mm like the guy in the you tube video said.....but I thought it was a little loose for my taste.

Checked the SAE set and sure enough the size is 1/4 NOT 6mm.

If anyone has a you tube account they should post on his blunder !

Anyway, got to the office, put the bolt in a vice that is wrapped in 3/8 inch Butyl rubber jaws and tightened her up real tight, put the 1/4 allen key in and gave her a twist ....nothing ....gave her another hard fast twist and SUCCESS ;- )

Took everything apart and all parts are in great shape. Waiting on the new bolt face before I take this bolt face apart. Ordered the bolt face kit from midway in case the one from Savage does not have all the parts.

This is going to be fun !


wll

You tube is never wrong:rolleyes:. But seriously, next time, try just putting the wrench in the BAS (bolt assembly screw)and put the bolt on a "carpeted" floor and step on the handle to break it loose. After that just snug is fine to put it back together.

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Originally Posted by RP12

You tube is never wrong:rolleyes:. But seriously, next time, try just putting the wrench in the BAS (bolt assembly screw)and put the bolt on a "carpeted" floor and step on the handle to break it loose. After that just snug is fine to put it back together.

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On the put back together, I will use some thich non binding silicone #111 I think it is on the back threads and just a firm hand tighten down

wll

Why 111, that is more for o-rings than threads? It is not designed for lubrication of moving parts but to aid in the installation of sealing assemblies.

A good snugging is all that is needed, no thread locker. If I was to use some though I'd go with Loctite 242 or 243, depends if you feel you need oil resistant.

Sued? Dang!....reminds me why I don't like to suggest anything to anyone any more.

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Originally Posted by stangfish

Why 111, that is more for o-rings than threads? It is not designed for lubrication of moving parts but to aid in the installation of sealing assemblies.

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Yes, but it is a non flowing silicon grease that does not dry up. We used it back in the day for air gun stuff when we put in a new piston.

Great product.


wll

Piston...seal...Seal lube. It's your stuff. I have to go fluff my carburetor.
Here is what Dow says about there product 111

* Dow Corning 111 ORing Silicone Lubricant: *

The Dow Corning ORing Lubricant is food and beverage safe. It is FDA and NSF approved. * Use the Dow Corning 111 O-Ring Silicone Lubricant on all brands of Water Filter Whole House Housing Rubber and Plastic O-Rings and Gaskets, all Reverse Osmosis System O-Rings, all Drinking Water Filtration Systems, all UltraViolet System O-Rings, and Water Softener and Carbon Water Filter O-Rings. This oring sealant is recommended for all water treatment o-rings and seals. * The Dow Corning 111 Silicone Sealant is premium grade and can also be used in underwater photography cameras, scuba gear, lubrication for control and pressure plug valves, water softener and faucet valves, sealant for vacuum and pressure systems, sealant for outdoor equipment (also shipboard) subject to washing and harsh environment exposure: meters, electrical service entrance and underground connections, damping medium for dash pots in electrical and electronic equipment, used as an anti-stick and sealant for transformer gasket and equipment enclosures. It prevents gaskets from sticking to metal and resists weathering and water washout. * The Dow Corning 111 Lubricant has a chemical barrier coating, good resistance to most chemicals, low vapor pressure, low volatility, and excellent water resistance. * Should I use a lubricant on my O-Ring? If you choose to reuse your water filter housing o-rings, you should use a lubricant on the o-rings to keep them effective. You should only use a special silicone lubricant. * Do I need to lubricate the gasket on the filter cartridge? Generally, no because each replacement filter cartridge comes with its own new gasket if one is needed. The rubber gasket is the top or bottom part of the replacement filter cartridge and is not the same as the oring

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Originally Posted by wlleven

On the put back together, I will use some thich non binding silicone #111 I think it is on the back threads and just a firm hand tighten down

wll

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Ya don't need anything other than maybe a light coat of your favorite slippery stuff(oil) on the BAS threads. And you don't have to twist it off plus two turns to tighten it. A light to medium grunt is enough.

Bill

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Originally Posted by wlleven

Well left the house early and went to Lowe's to get a allen wrench for my bolt take apart. Went to the section and grabbed a 6mm like the guy in the you tube video said.....but I thought it was a little loose for my taste.

Checked the SAE set and sure enough the size is 1/4 NOT 6mm. That guy should be sued for giving bad information !

If anyone has a you tube account they should post on his blunder !

wll

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The fact that you just said that makes me think I should probably do everyone on this site a favor by kicking you off it. Seriously? Sue a guy for making a simple, honest mistake in a video? Wow! It must be hard going through life being the only person on the planet as perfect as you. I'm sure everyone here will be more than willing to help you out and answer your questions now that they know exactly how you will react if their instruction and knowledge doesn't net you the the exact results you want.

It was probably written in the heat of the moment. Frustration probably set in. I'm sure he didn't mean it. But no he shouldn't have posted that, your right. Big deep breath, count to ten, A BIG LOL!.

Side note: I would always be weary of anyone saying to use a metric wrench on an American made rifle.

That's just my experience though.

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Originally Posted by stangfish

Piston...seal...Seal lube. It's your stuff. I have to go fluff my carburetor.
Here is what Dow says about there product 111

* Dow Corning 111 ORing Silicone Lubricant: *

The Dow Corning ORing Lubricant is food and beverage safe. It is FDA and NSF approved. * Use the Dow Corning 111 O-Ring Silicone Lubricant on all brands of Water Filter Whole House Housing Rubber and Plastic O-Rings and Gaskets, all Reverse Osmosis System O-Rings, all Drinking Water Filtration Systems, all UltraViolet System O-Rings, and Water Softener and Carbon Water Filter O-Rings. This oring sealant is recommended for all water treatment o-rings and seals. * The Dow Corning 111 Silicone Sealant is premium grade and can also be used in underwater photography cameras, scuba gear, lubrication for control and pressure plug valves, water softener and faucet valves, sealant for vacuum and pressure systems, sealant for outdoor equipment (also shipboard) subject to washing and harsh environment exposure: meters, electrical service entrance and underground connections, damping medium for dash pots in electrical and electronic equipment, used as an anti-stick and sealant for transformer gasket and equipment enclosures. It prevents gaskets from sticking to metal and resists weathering and water washout. * The Dow Corning 111 Lubricant has a chemical barrier coating, good resistance to most chemicals, low vapor pressure, low volatility, and excellent water resistance. * Should I use a lubricant on my O-Ring? If you choose to reuse your water filter housing o-rings, you should use a lubricant on the o-rings to keep them effective. You should only use a special silicone lubricant. * Do I need to lubricate the gasket on the filter cartridge? Generally, no because each replacement filter cartridge comes with its own new gasket if one is needed. The rubber gasket is the top or bottom part of the replacement filter cartridge and is not the same as the oring

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Stangfish,

Yes it is a "O" ring sealant, but I have used it in the past as a barrier to stop water from getting to places it did not want to rust.

After taking the bolt apart, I noticed a thin coat of oil on the inside of the bolt and the firing pin system, it looks like it was never fired.

I may remove parts and spray on a bit of Rem oil, but not sure. I will not take apart the firing part system as there is not need to do that !

wll

Lotsa bad information on the net from wanna be gun builders and hacks, that think that because they've worked on 1 gun they're now experts. These amateurs are the first to post about what they've done, and the next thing you know they have a following of more noobs that are gullible enough to accept it as gospel without any further research. It gets to the point it reminds me of the Special Olympics, when all the athletes pat each other on the back and say "good job"..whether they sucked or not.
I'm sorry...but somebody had to say it.

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Originally Posted by sharpshooter

Lotsa bad information on the net from wanna be gun builders and hacks, that think that because they've worked on 1 gun they're now experts. These amateurs are the first to post about what they've done, and the next thing you know they have a following of more noobs that are gullible enough to accept it as gospel without any further research. It gets to the point it reminds me of the Special Olympics, when all the athletes pat each other on the back and say "good job"..whether they sucked or not.
I'm sorry...but somebody had to say it.

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Thank you so much for the belly laugh Fred. Very funny and very true.