New guy, help with SSS services??

Hey everybody! I'm new here, but I have been lurking for a little while and running searches trying to find the info I need but I am having some trouble on one issue. It seems as though the search function is almost TOO good and brings back alot of extra info.

If this is is a well covered question I apologize in advance, I just wasn't coming up with what I was looking for. Anyway on to the question:

I just picked up my brand new 10 FCP-K. From what I have read it seems that a T&T from Sharp Shooters Supply is what I need to do first before bedding a stock etc. My question though is what else should be done while it's there? I am not planning on a custom bbl or anything like that, I am hoping the stock savage bbl is a good one out of the box. Just curious what other services should be done while it is there that later on I will have wished I'd had done??

Thanks in advance!!

You could get a new trigger. SSS charges less when its done with T&T. Also, recoil lug?

I think that has the accustock ,so I don't think bedding would help at all.
I would shoot it like it is,a t&t job will give you lighter and smoother bolt and maybe a little lighter trigger pull but I don't think it does much for accuracy,A new barrel I'm sure would do more.

so shoot it (you might be surprised) and if your not happy after a couple hundred rounds send it to Fred and get the T&T ,recoil lug ,bolt handle,and if you want get a new trigger but I think you will be happy with the accutrigger

what kind of shooting are you going to do and what is accurate enough for you?

I am with Viper on this so +1 on shooting first. Unless its your hearts desire to have a custom built by SSS, then by all means. Fred's work is exceptional.
His triggers are second to none. While there I might also add some pretty bolt fluting!

Neal

Thanks for the replies so far! I didn't want to overload my first post with TOO much info hah! but here is the run down..

This is my first real bolt action centerfire, it's the FCP-K in .308. has the accu-stock & accu-trigger.
My goal with this rifle is to learn to shoot long range with it. (pretty common affair I'm guessing!)

I do not plan to bed the accu-stock, but I think down the line I will eventually swap out the stock to an aftermarket, so that is where the concern of having the T&T done comes in with regards to bedding.

As far as the accu-trigger goes, I really like the feel of the accu-trigger so far. With the adjustments I made on it, I think money for a new trigger would be better spent somewhere else. At least for the time being anyway!

I have on hand the EGW +20 MOA base as well as Harris Signature Zee 30mm rings, I am planning on ordering the FFP Vortex Viper PST 6-24x50 scope when it is released in a couple months for this rifle. (I do question whether these are an appropriate base & ring setup with regards to the scope/rifle? I know they will work ok, but are they "proper" for a $900 scope??)

I just plan on target shooting with this rifle, punching paper, and learning to range targets, read wind etc etc. I would someday like to be able to say I can get out to 1000 with it, but will have to wait and see how I progress.

As far as accuracy goes, well I don't really know what is acceptable and what isn't. I hope that my choice in the savage was a good one, and that it lives up to hype out of the box! Pairing that with the high regards of the Vortex scope's from all I have read the PST line is sure to be a winner also. That being said, I do not plan on having a complete custom rifle when it's all said and done. I do not plan on swapping to a high end custom bbl etc etc. I would just like a very nice factory rifle with good optics and the bare essentials done to the action etc to make it as good as possible WITHOUT turning it into a full custom rig! All of which put together in mind for being able to shoot out 1000 if I can learn to do it.

With the PST's not coming out for another couple of months, I have time on my side to get the rest of the rifle ready. Seems to me the T&T is a good service to have done as my bolt is definitely tough, sticky and clunky as it is! Plus I have read about some actions torquing due to the heat treatment so I figure while I have the time, if I can get on the waiting list, the $125 for the T&T would be a good investment to make before mounting a high dollar (to me!) scope to lessen the chance of having to remove and start over. Plus if I do decide to swap stocks I am good to go.

What will changing the LUG do for the action??

I guess I am kind of a do it right do it once kind of guy, I would like to set this all up right from the gate so when the scopes come out and I get mine all I have to do is mount it up and from there on I will have the proper tool to be able to learn to shoot at distance. I hate the feeling of "I had the time, I should have done this and this and this while I was waiting for the scope, and I put the time and effort into sighting it in, and working up these great loads, now I need to break it all down and send it out to see if I can make it a little bit better, then wait for it, then start at square one.." I'm not into that at all! :D However I do need to be realistic with my means and get what I need without going to far off the path into the wants..


WHEW! Sorry that turned into a really long post! I guess bottom line is if I am going to send it in for the T&T what are the other "essential" services that should be done at the time to make a factory rifle the best it can be for a long range shooter without going custom everything on it?? The bolt fluting looks nice, but not really for me on this rifle! Maybe another build someday!

Yes, the EGW base and (Burris) Signature Zee rings are proper for a $900 scope. There are more expensive rings available, however they are not better in my opinion. The Signature rings won't scratch your scope, and do not need to be lapped to prevent bending the scope. Plus you can install offset inserts if you want to move the scope around for windage or elevation.

I would suggest that you shoot at least 100 rd's through it and get well broken in.
I have the same rifle and get bored shooting sub MOA with it.
I think you might change your thoughts afterward.

From what I understand, the accustock recoil lug is "v" shaped and will need to be swapped out if you transition to a different stock. You can buy an aftermarket recoil lug for a new stock. They are thicker and are more true. You can get them from SSS or NSS (both site sponsors).

I'd stick with what you got. Many claim 0.5 MOA stock. You can also decrease action friction with the DIY trick using a .357 mag. case and a ball bearing. I assume a .38SP case will work as well. If it's not accuracte enough, I would bed and buy a match grade barrel. Accutrigger is already pretty good and if it doesn't already have a target trigger, all you need to do is swap out the spring to lighten the pull, although, it's already pretty light.

Welcome to the site.
A T&T job is a great idea, it come with about everything needed. The recoil lug on a accu-stock is different that the lugs used on other Savage guns, and if you wish to continue to use the accu-stock, you are stuck with the recoil lug that come with it. The only other thing I could think of is getting a SSS bolt handle, the factory BT bolt handle leave a lot to desire. I think you have a great plan and it is easily obtainable.

I would say you have done your homework, and have some great products, and service in mind.

Thanks for the replies once again guys! I really appreciate it!

Glad to hear I'm on the right path! And thanks for the info on the recoil lug! I added that to my notes for future use should I decide to upgrade the stock, very good to know!

Forgive my newb-ness, but what does the BT abbreviation mean in regards to the bolt handle 82boy? I will look at the SSS bolt handle here in a minute!

The BT bolt handle is the one with the large ball knob. Savage has two handles a small knob and the large one. It got the BT name because this know first came out on the 112BT. (Back in the way back.) The originals was plastic threaded onto the handle, latter they are all casted as one part. I don't like the handle because of many reasons, the main reason is that it interferes with the index finger as it engages the trigger.

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Originally Posted by LeeH

I would suggest that you shoot at least 100 rd's through it and get well broken in.
I have the same rifle and get bored shooting sub MOA with it.
I think you might change your thoughts afterward.

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I agree. I wanted a new stock for this gun, but it shoots so good out of the box I was afraid to change anything.