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My FLCP-K still has a hard bolt lift especially at the very end of the stroke. Does the same 38 special mod work for the accustock rear cocking indicator guns? What are the brass dimensions and BB dimensions ? I did see in one thread that the BAS needs to be shortened, but I was not sure if it was an rear cocking indicator gun. I did email SSS to see if they had them just for sake of ease.
Thanks!!
If I understood you correct you have a bolt that has the cock indicator, if so the mod is different but there is one for those bolts. I know SSS sells it but I dont know how it works.
Polish it in the correct areas. Clean it Lubricate it. Operate it 100 times. How is it?
If needed back off one full turn on the rear firing pin nut. The part on the rear(left). NOTE: This may effect Lock Time.
http://media.midwayusa.com/productim...630/630992.jpg
Ok, I may get to it this weekend, my Choate stock showed up today. I think I know what spots to polish but not totally sure.
Cocking ramp on the side of the bolt body
Pin that goes through bolt body.
Ramp on back of bolt where bolt handle rides.
Where else?
Yes, this is a rear cocking indicator action.
Btw thanks guys!
Youse guys brought up something I have been thinking about all week. My 10TR has the rear cocking indicator in the middle of the BAS, but my 6.5 Creedmoor and 223 both Model 16 TH's have a solid rear BAS (with allen slot). These actions are now both wearing 6.8 SPC II barrels.
Other than seeing the chamber loaded piece, what advantages are there to the rear cocking indication actions????
It's hard enough to get that BAS started threading into the bolt body, is putting together a rear cocking indicator harder or easier?
I put my bas in with it UN cocked and it goes in easy, then use edge of pine block to Re cock it.
I'm was thinking about doing the 38sp mod. But I found that dissembling the bolt cleaning, oiling and applying grease on the BAS, Cocking sleeve and the edge of where the pin thing (technical terminology, I know). The bolt had very gummy lube on it from the factory. And a lot of grit. I like a lube with teflon (Rem-oil, It dries out but leaves a lubricating film) in it for smaller parts, like the the bolt head pin that the firing pin goes through, then STOS grease (or whatever) for the BAS and Cocking sleeve. Made a small but noticeable difference. I don't have a cocking indicator model. I've got about 150 through the gun about about 1000 dry firings with snap camps. That may have done more than anything else.
I'm probably going to polish everything this week.
Let me know how the polishing goes. Are you using a dremel? or some other method?
I have not decided what my polishing methods will be yet, I need to get into it and see what it looks like.
I have not gotten the bolt body apart yet. The bolt handle is off but I have not gotten past that. You can see that it had had a hard lift by the wear on the edge of the bolt handle ramp. Does the pin behind the bolt head need to be pushed out to continue? Does anybody have the exploded view of it?
Thanks!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6dLdOhOOaNU.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BoPtHPjt2c8
This is what I was going to do but in the comments he said it didn't help much.
The pin is held in by a "Keyhole notch" it has a bigger hole at the end of the sleeve that the pin will come out.
This might help:
http://www.savageshooters.com/conten...Assembly-Parts
http://i56.tinypic.com/23kcbow.jpgQuote:
Originally Posted by missed
If your bolt assembly is like this, after removing the BAS the cocking piece sleeve is moved rearward the cocking piece pin can be removed then the rest of the stuff can be dumped out.
If you have one of the later bolt assemblies I can't help you. I don't have some!:p
Bill
Once I pulled my head out of you know where I got it apart, I just didn't want to launch small hard to find parts into orbit at the verge of lightspeed inside my shop.
One thing I noticed on the bolt body where the cocking ramp is seems like the pin is just wearing on half or less than half of the bearing surface which I imagine is not helping lift. I am thinking about polishing that and the pin.
The rear baffle also seems to be the other place where there is just an uneven wear pattern. where the bolt handle rides the baffle. Hmmm hardened billet rear baffle with a nice smooth ramp to it hmmmm....
What else or where else should I be polishing or cleaning up?
Oh yeah mine is a rear cocking indicator model.
Well I tore it all down and cleaned it really well, polished up the cocking ramp and cocking pin. Greased with extreme pressure moly grease, and it is better but still gets really hard at the end of the stroke. I guess I am going to have to send it out for a T&T I will try to back the firing pin off one turn next and see if that improves things at all. With no case or, subsonic loads the bolt opens easy, its just with everything else its a different story.
Well I ordered a fluted bolt body from SSS, should be here Monday or Tuesday.
They also said they may make mid September on t&t jobs, so I don't know what to do know.
I know I have a bad savage addiction I get notifications from arms list and Texas gun trader for lefty actions, there is an non accu trigger long action out there for a good price and I keep thinking about a 338 edge or 7mm mag maybe....
I don't think their bolts have the cocking ramp cut to new specs. when I sent my bolt to t&t with them I asked them what will happen to my timing if I later decided to get their bolts and they told me I would loose timing again.
Yeah they said that it would change on the tt job, but they did say the faces and ramps are smoother than the factory ones, so we will see. I bought it more for the bling and have it before a tt job.