Question about the Axis recoil lug.

I'm looking to drop my 308 Axis Sr into the BSA CF2 stock in about a month. I've been pondering if since it's going into a new stock that would be inletted for it why can't a standard savage recoil lug and barrel nut at that point? Would head spacing be affected. I want to rebarrel anyways and from what I understand the Axis is just a standard small "small shank" barrel type.

If this is possible to do it seems like it would make the whole process easier. Please explain what the details are with this concept. Thanks for the assistance.

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If you are taking it out of the Axis stock and dropping it in the BSA stock head space will not be affected. I use the standard savage recoil lug and barrel nut on all of mine.
Now if you are pulling off a barrel and installing another one then you will have to re-set the head space.

Just to make sure when I refer to "standard savage recoil lug" I mean like what you would find on a 10/110.

I believe there might have been some confusion in what I was referencing.

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To do so you have to machine 3/16" off the face of the action (basically the depth of the notch the standard Axis recoil lug fits into).

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Originally Posted by MrFurious

To do so you have to machine 3/16" off the face of the action (basically the depth of the notch the standard Axis recoil lug fits into).

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Just for the sake of conversation could one not just relocate the lug location in the stock using bedding epoxy or filler without the machining process? I know it seems like some backwoods engineering and not optimal but the load on the recoil is to the side of the nut....no? Just trying to stimulate a little dialog,

Seems like you could just cut the slot 3/16 further forward. With the wood stock. Would the length of a normal recoil lug with ring impede the ability to head space the barrel?

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Originally Posted by LoneWolf

Seems like you could just cut the slot 3/16 further forward. With the wood stock. Would the length of a normal recoil lug with ring impede the ability to head space the barrel?

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Sounds like it's a possibility..... someone with a Axis action and a standard stock needs to look at it. I don't have an Axis or I would!

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I'm not trying to be a smart alec but that last comment was ...wow. I am almost certain everybody understands that the action has a cutout for the recoil lug. I am also certain the Jim is giving us the way someone would do it with a lathe.
But the question remains, what would happen if you did not do it that way and just put it together and modified a stock to make it work? What if you didnt machine the face back untill it cleaned up? What if you had enough thread to headspace it. You might need to clearance the nut. You might not. It is obvious that the original lug was not captured behind the nut. You could always leave the old lug in place and bed it in there as well if you wanted to.

How far out of orbit will the earth fall if you assemble it like it is? No points for repeating what Mr. F stated.

That's where I was going with this stang! Thanks for jumping in. If it would still head space properly would there be any issues to consider? Seems like it would make barrel changes and bedding a lot easier.

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Originally Posted by stangfish

But the question remains, what would happen if you did not do it that way and just put it together and modified a stock to make it work? What if you didn't machine the face back untill it cleaned up? What if you had enough thread to headspace it. You might need to clearance the nut. You might not. It is obvious that the original lug was not captured behind the nut. You could always leave the old lug in place and bed it in there as well if you wanted to.

How far out of orbit will the earth fall if you assemble it like it is? No points for repeating what Mr. F stated.

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It would be feasible if you had an aftermarket barrel that had a long enough threaded section, but no way could you do it with a factory barrel or any standard pre-fit aftermarket barrel with a standard thread length. Just screw your nut all the way onto a factory or pre-fit barrel then slip on two two recoil lugs behind it and you'll see exactly why it won't work - you'll likely only have a couple threads showing behind the lugs to go into the action.

Why you'd want to create an odd-ball stock by doing this is also beyond me. There's really no need to upgrade to the 110 style recoil lug unless you're rebarreling to some uber-magnum. The taper issue with the factory 110 recoil lug that leads people to go to an aftermarket lug is eliminated with the Axis lug design, and the extra thickness offered by an aftermarket lug being of any benefit is hugely debatable.

It just baffles me why some insist on finding the hardest way to do things or make something more complicated than it needs to be when there's a readily available correct and usually easier way to do it right.

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It just baffles me why some insist on finding the hardest way to do things or make something more complicated than it needs to be when there's a readily available correct and usually easier way to do it right.

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Me too.

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It just baffles me why some insist on finding the hardest way to do things or make something more complicated than it needs to be when there's a readily available correct and usually easier way to do it right.

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Then it should also baffle you that anyone would buy a savage. You and I have access to tooling and lathes. Some don't. I would not do it but I can see someone else giving it a try.

Just questioning the thought before I dive into a first time project. I'm no gunsmith, but I am pretty mechanically inclined when it comes to figuring things out. Unfortunately I'm away for training and can't look at my Axis to make this determination. I know this isn't the most logical but hadn't seen anyone else question this aspect within the forums.

This project will be a good time I think in the long run.

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By not facing the receiver face you will leave a large gap that will not support half the recoil lug, and that is the half that needs the support. Either use the factory lug, or face the receiver for a full lug, don't do it half assed.

OK so its not a good idea...... but when my gun recoils it is against the nut not the action.

What do you think happens when the opposite side has no support?

Answer: It bends the lug.

I can see that. I believe that if you used common sense with cartridge selection you could make it work. the original action has a slip fit recoil lug that has very little contact area. There is no doubt from a gun builder, smith or machinist perspective there is only one way and that is machine the recess from the action. For me I think it is unfair to tell someone they can't do something. After all frank can flush his bolt handle. Oops that reminds me. I have a project for him I need to finish.

Again it was just a thought as I haven't really been able to look at it close up. In the military and currently away for training. Been planning & pricing from a distance.

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Most of us ask questions because we just dont know... Sometimes the answer is given and we believe it but want to know why. I thought the forum was in part to share information, learn, find other ways to make our rifles shoot better. Please, if we ask is because we want to learn and sometimes we even go against the flow... Aint that were some great ideas come from... I need to stop the Jd when I post... Educate us, dont talk us down like we are some little brat kids that just need to fall in line no question ask....

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Originally Posted by stangfish

I can see that. I believe that if you used common sense with cartridge selection you could make it work. the original action has a slip fit recoil lug that has very little contact area. There is no doubt from a gun builder, smith or machinist perspective there is only one way and that is machine the recess from the action. For me I think it is unfair to tell someone they can't do something. After all frank can flush his bolt handle. Oops that reminds me. I have a project for him I need to finish.

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Don't take my word for it.....try it and see what happens.