The best way to mod your axis trigger (IMO)

There are several trigger mods for the axis/edge, however, I've found that you get the best results when you do all of these variants of the mods.

First off, if you've probably heard of the mod where you cut a coil off of the factory spring, don't do this mod, the spring is just too stiff and you will only lighten the trigger pull by a small amount, so, you'll have to replace the spring, with a lighter one. I found a perfect one at my local ace hardware. You may need to cut the new spring to the right length. To get the spring to stay in place, use a set screw in the hole in the trigger, this allows you to adjust over travel. Do not do the variant that uses a roll pin in this hole, as you will not be able to easily adjust the over travel. And mind you, that getting all that over travel out, makes a huge difference for the feel of the trigger. If you have a lot of over travel, it shakes the whole gun when the trigger breaks. Another procedure that helps lighten the trigger, is polishing the sear and the groove in the trigger, there are different ways of going about this, I personally used some flitz and a buffing wheel. I also stoned the groove a bit, but there wasn't much difference. Another major mod to do is to shim the trigger, see the link at the bottom for info on how to do this. It really helps to clean up the break. And lastly grease the pivot on the trigger and the sear, this helps smooth things out a bit.

Anyway, if you do this series of mods to your axis, you'll most likely be very with your new trigger pull, as I've done most of the variations of the mods and found these versions to yield the best trigger pull. happy modding!

Hint: a handy place to store the factory spring is in the triangular recesses of the stock near the recoil lug. So it's always there just in case you ever need to send in your axis for repair.

Here's the info on shimming
http://www.savageshooters.com/conten...igger-Shim-Mod

I know this is an old thread, but the poster is right. You can buy the spring ($.60) at ACE. You can also buy the necessary 10-24 thread set screw there (($.30). I bought several lengths of these set screws in both hex and slotted configurations.
Yes, the set screw eliminates the huge overtravel of the trigger when the sear releases and does NOT interfere with bolt removal.
I 'upset' the threads of the screw just enough to prevent it from moving and a add a bit of Loctite.
Done it to all 6 Axis rifles.

ron

Thanks for the data. May I ask what lengths you used for the set screws? I will be doing the same on my Axis. Even after cutting 1.5 coils, the trigger pull still leaves a lot to be desired.

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Originally Posted by n4ue

I know this is an old thread, but the poster is right. You can buy the spring ($.60) at ACE. You can also buy the necessary 10-24 thread set screw there (($.30). I bought several lengths of these set screws in both hex and slotted configurations.
Yes, the set screw eliminates the huge overtravel of the trigger when the sear releases and does NOT interfere with bolt removal.
I 'upset' the threads of the screw just enough to prevent it from moving and a add a bit of Loctite.
Done it to all 6 Axis rifles.

ron

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Hi. I just checked my newest Axis, since it's apart for some rebarrelling 'fun' The set screw that's in there is 5/8" long. I picked up a variety of different lengths on my last trip to ACE. I cut the present one down, since it was all I had at the time. You can use a longer screw, but with too much protruding from the trigger, you run the risk of contacting the trigger guard. 5/8" is almost flush with the trigger.
I assume you were talking about cutting the stock spring? Does NO good. Cutting the Savage spring actually makes it worse since the spring 'rate' has changed. Yeah, it might be shorter, but it sure ain't gonna be lighter!
I forgot what # the ACE springs were. I bought a few different ones. Just find a light spring that will screw onto the 10-24 set screw.
Remove the "E" clip and pivot pin which makes this very simple. cut the spring until you reach the desired tension. The thin springs cut easily with side cutters. Lube the pin when assembling for the last time. I like a thin grease with HBN........a bit on the sear can't hurt.

ron

I'm not sure what you guys are talking about. I cut 2 coils off my spring, bent .5 so the end lays flat, then stretched the spring a tiny bit and reduced the pull from 8lbs down to 3lbs. I never added a set screw or shimmed anything. Just the spring cut mod. So I'm not sure why you guys are saying cutting the spring does nothing when clearly I've done it and know first hand it lightens trigger pull considerably.

Unless some of the springs have variable rates, trimming a coil will reduce the distance the spring is compressed when the gun is cocked, thereby reducing the force between the rear arm of the trigger and the receiver, which is proportional to the force it takes to release the trigger. Changing the rate of the spring would require altering the spring material.

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Originally Posted by DrThunder88

Unless some of the springs have variable rates, trimming a coil will reduce the distance the spring is compressed when the gun is cocked, thereby reducing the force between the rear arm of the trigger and the receiver, which is proportional to the force it takes to release the trigger. Changing the rate of the spring would require altering the spring material.

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or the diameter of the wire...or the distance between the coils.

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Originally Posted by Dirtydeeds

I'm not sure what you guys are talking about. I cut 2 coils off my spring, bent .5 so the end lays flat, then stretched the spring a tiny bit and reduced the pull from 8lbs down to 3lbs. I never added a set screw or shimmed anything. Just the spring cut mod. So I'm not sure why you guys are saying cutting the spring does nothing when clearly I've done it and know first hand it lightens trigger pull considerably.

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I forgot that decreasing the number of coils and then stretching the spring to the same length in some way decreases the spring rate (compression:number of coils). I snipped off 1.0 coils again and stretched the spring and I was pleasantly surprised with the results. My trigger must be in the 3lb range now.

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Originally Posted by stangfish

or the diameter of the wire...or the distance between the coils.

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exactly. The spring in its unaltered fashion is progressively wound. By cutting off some coils and increasing the distance beTween them would definitely change the spring rate.

Personally I like the idea of removing the factory spring and screw before the mod and using a store bought set screw and spring. I did my mod before I realized how tedious it would be get any parts from Savage. Looking back, if I were to do it again, I would for certain take off the factory parts and purchase new ones for the mod. This way I could always put it back to factory before I sell it. I like my .270 axis but I own a Savage 116 in a 30-06 and I know it's just a matter of time before I get a .270 in this series as well.

I guess I was wrong. Removing coils does increase the spring rate. However, if my algebra is correct (and my second-hand measurements are reasonably accurate), the decrease in preload compression caused by removing a coil outweighs the increased rate, resulting in less force needed to move the trigger.

You could just get a Timney. If you sell the rifle it adds to the value and if you don't sell the rifle it adds a great trigger.

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Originally Posted by wbm

You could just get a Timney. If you sell the rifle it adds to the value and if you don't sell the rifle it adds a great trigger.

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I'm looking at the Rifle Basix model in the short term. Hopefully, by that time, there will be some aftermarket stock options as well!

For the added price of an aftermarket trigger you can get a Savage 11/111 or 16/116 with accu-trigger already installed.