Model 111 Range update

I took my Model 111 hunter 30.06 (no accutrigger or accustock) to the range. I found it to be a very accurate rifle. I was shooting groups of three, at 100 yards, that would fit inside a quarter with two of the holes touching each other. I also found it to be a comfortable rifle to shoot, well as comfortable as a 30.06 with a light weight synthetic stock can be.
The trigger is a little stiff. The factory sets it at 6 pounds, and as all of you know the scope is an inexpensive scope, but it gets the job done for now.
My next plan, possibly next week, it to take it to a gun smith and get the trigger reduced down to around 4 pounds, and then next year I plan on getting a better scope on it.
I would like to keep the scope to the three to five hundred range; any recommendations?

The simplest thing to do with the trigger is replace it with an aftermarket trigger. For what you would pay the smith to adjust it you could drop in a new one yourself for a crisp user adjustable model. As far as glass, I have had great luck with the Minox scopes as well as the vortex viper when on sale through cameraland one of the site sponsors on forum. The Minox I still cannot believe the clarity of the glass for the price!

Thanks hcp, I talked with a gunsmith in the area and he said he could tune it for around $35 dollars. I, personally, have never taken the action apart on a rifle, so I would not be confident it trying to install a trigger by myself.
Learning some gunsmithing is on my bucket list.

Russ, you are relatively new here, so here are a few pointers. There are some relatively inexpensive and easy ways to improve your trigger including replacing the "L-shaped" trigger spring, and shimming the trigger.

If you have a three-screw trigger, it can be tuned to a very nice, crisp hunting trigger that (figuratively) breaks almost like glass. There is an article on the forum that explains this process very thoroughly.

For what its worth, the trigger and sear are surface hardened, so if you hone it with a file or stone, you could wear through the hard surface into the softer metal underneath. The result would be a trigger that is good for a while, but would quickly wear out and need to be replaced. Make sure your gunsmith is aware of this. Most folks don't mess with the engagement surfaces, or else only try to buff/smooth the engagement surfaces and don't try to change the sear/trigger geometry at all.

Try searching on the forum and in the articles for appropriate terms. I believe there may be some articles on trigger mods, but I don't remember if they are available to non paid members.

If you are mechanically inclined, you should be able to do at least some work on your trigger. There might be some forum members near you who might be able to walk you through some of the easier modifications. Or, if you are really friends with your gunsmith, he or she might let you watch and ask questions as they do the work. That way you might learn something and gain the value of his professional training and experience.

Trigger work, when you have never done it, seems daunting, and it is very important to do it safely and to thoroughly test everything. However, with some knowledge, and a helpful teacher, you should be well on your way to success.

Best of luck. Keep searching and looking at the articles. Consider becoming a paid member in order to read the Technical articles.

Search, Read, then ask more questions.

1x on the advice above.

I have the same rifle in 7mm mag. Put a Rifle Basix trigger in it last week (SAV-1). Was super easy and made a huge difference in the feel of the trigger. I set it at a crisp 4 pounds. Might go lighter in the future, 3-3.5 pound. If I can do it, anybody can.

Topsails point is that even a caveman can doit. The RB triggers have good instructions.

Hey, I resemble that!