Cocking piece pin

I was taking the bolt body off of my model 10 a couple weeks ago to put on to my Stevens 200 build just to get the gun together temporarily while I waited for my fluted bolt body from SSS. Any way after swapping parts I could not get the bolt back in to the Stevens. After scratching my head for a while it turns out that the cocking piece pin off of one (Stevens) was taller then the other. I switched it with the shorter one and no problems. So know I need another shorter one. When my fluted bolt body came in it needed the shorter one to work. I did not know that there was different versions of these. How do I know I'm ordering the right one? Or does anybody have an extra laying around?

Anybody? Don't tell me I stumped you guys?

Grinder ?????

I don't have an answer to your issue.
However, I have some thoughts:

I wonder if it could it be the result of stacking tolerances?

Have you measured the two firing pins to see exactly where the difference lies? Perhaps one was simply machined incorrectly?

I wonder if Sharpshooter has any information on this?

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Originally Posted by thomae

I wonder if it could it be the result of stacking tolerances?

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No, I ran into this one time. I recall making a new pin for some odd reason and believe it was for the difference in the bolt bodies. Early bodies were the same diameter their entire length whereas the newer ones are undercut in the cocking ramp area. One or the other used a longer / shorter pin. The bodies in my 10s are straight. The rest (11,111s, 200s, 14s,etc) all have the undercut bodies.

In the meantime Mossy take a few measurements. I have a pin here but no idea which one.

Overall length - .657"
Head diameter - .427"
Shaft, tip to the bottom of the head - .478"
Shaft diameter - .211"


Bill

I ran into this before as well. The top of the pin on my stevens was thicker than the one on an older action and it wouldn't let the bolt slide in. I had to switch it back to make it work. Like BillPA said. the newer bolt bodies are undercut, and I think the thicker pin head takes up some slack or something. At any rate they weren't interchangeable.

OK let's bring this back up to get it solved. I have to get that rifle back together to work up some loads. I just measured to outer edge of the head of the pin. The thicker one measures .144 and the thinner one measures .110. I need another thinner one.

Sorry I don't have an extra. I have seen them listed in small rifle parts on gunbroker often. You might have to contact a seller to see if it is an old style or a new style, but it shouldn't be too hard to find.
But as I said before, it has been my experience that they are not interchangeable.

Can one be made from a drill bit, I have made a few replacement pins, especially if the original was sloppy out of a drill bit

Ed

Many drill bit are only hard on the fluted end and are very soft on the chucking end. OK for something with no load or stress but probably not a good idea for something connected to the firing assembly of a rifle. Plus this pin looks like a mushroom and my bet is that is 4140 or something similar.

Just checked Savage's part finder and that piece is only $2.00 but "restricted to gunsmiths". Don't understand that one....

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Originally Posted by 03mossy

Just checked Savage's part finder and that piece is only $2.00 but "restricted to gunsmiths". Don't understand that one....

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Its because it would require disassembling/assembling the bolt. The problem, they don't know you or your abilities so its a "CYA" thing on their part.

Bill

Try brownells for the small restricted parts.

I ended up finding one on eBay for $5 delivered. Ordered it Thursday and got it already yesterday. Thanks for the help.