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Do tell...
I'm open to suggestions... after a lot of reading of various opinions (which I realize are a lot like noses...) it seemed that just lubing the body alone wasn't enough to give consistent best results, nor just seating the bullet long - apparently the strike of the firing pin can shove the case forward in the chamber unless one uses a hideous amount of neck tension... the false shoulder seemed like the method that gave the most predictable results. That said, it was/is a PITA (in my opinion)... enough that I was kind of eye-balling one of those hydraulic forming dies for the next time I have to make more 6 Dasher cases. Either that or just say screw it and have it set back to a straight 6 BR.
If you have a better way, please share.
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It's called a "shellholder" bolt head. I made one from an old .223 bolthead, fashioned just like a shell holder for a reloading press.
I load 12 gr. of bullseye, topped off with cornmeal and then a wax plug. Slide the case into the shellholder bolt head and pull the trigger. The cases come out to the exact same length as the headspace gauge, and the shoulder is just as sharp as a factory case.
I have always found it is better to blow the kinks out of the cases before you turn the necks, it eliminates the donut problem.
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Well, for anyone that thinks the 6.5 Creedmoor is the way to go and is looking for a barrel, I have the Savage LRP 6.5 Creedmoor barrel for sale in the classifieds section here: http://www.savageshooters.com/showth...eedmoor-barrel