Input from knowledgeable savage owners

New savage owner here. Love my long action but hate bolt lift (I know,here we go again). My parts for a thrust bearing set up for the BAS should arrive today so we"ll see what that does. Spent a couple hours last night polishing the bolt to mirror finish in the recommended areas, lapped the lugs also. Havnt noticed any noticable change yet. I did notice that when you cock the bolt it is working against the bolt release spring. Is this true? I havnt taken the stock off yet but have found a few trigger pics on this site (accutrigger). Is the bolt release part of the sear? If not, could reducing/increasing spring tension of the bolt release help with bolt lift. I noticed the spring pressure on the bolt release is a pretty good amount of force. Some one suggested take a little off the very top of the cocking ramp right before the pin seats. Is this accurate?

Thanks,
David

Quote:

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Originally Posted by monkiejohnson

Is the bolt release part of the sear?

could reducing/increasing spring tension of the bolt release help with bolt lift.

Some one suggested take a little off the very top of the cocking ramp right before the pin seats. Is this accurate?

Thanks,
David

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The sear does triple duty. It holds the firing pin until the trigger releases it, acts as the bolt stop and bolt release. The "release" you press is an extended part of it.

The sear torsion spring has zero effect on bolt lift and only marginal effect closing and locking it to battery. It's sole purpose is to reset the sear to it home position opening the bolt.

Taking a little off the transition point between the ramp and retention detent only reduces the "click" at the end of the bolt lift. At times its "pointed" making the transition a bit on the abrupt side. It can be shaped to a radius to smooth out the transition. How much? I use a diamond stone to round the very tip to maybe a 1/32" radius at the most, nothing more, just enough to break the edge.


Bill

It's sounds to me then that the only real fix is a new bolt body, head, and extended handle. And if you are going that route you might as well get the thing timed as well. Guess I will be getting used to the hard bolt as is for now. Love everything else though!! Thanks for the info Bill. No meeting take stock off now.

David

Quote:

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Originally Posted by monkiejohnson

It's sounds to me then that the only real fix is a new bolt body, head, and extended handle. And if you are going that route you might as well get the thing timed as well. Guess I will be getting used to the hard bolt as is for now. Love everything else though!! Thanks for the info Bill. No meeting take stock off now.

David

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Dave, a lot of things affect bolt lift. New parts alone generally have little or any real effect. Although Fred was primarily addressing the "bolt lift kit" it may give you a little more insight what's involved.

http://www.savageshooters.com/conten...Bolt-Lift-Kits

Bill

The problem with the Savage lift is a timing issue.

http://www.savageshooters.com/conten...uing-Explained

leverage is the best answer
a longer bolt handle reduces bolt lift far more than lubing -polishing- or lift kits
I've tried them all
all mine may have had timing issues when I got them & may still have timing issues
but the bolt lift problem WENT AWAY
when I put a longer bolt handle on them
several post in axis thread on this subject

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Willoughby

leverage is the best answer
a longer bolt handle reduces bolt lift far more than lubing -polishing- or lift kits
I've tried them all
all mine may have had timing issues when I got them & may still have timing issues
but the bolt lift problem WENT AWAY
when I put a longer bolt handle on them
several post in axis thread on this subject

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Additional leverage isn't necessary if you fix the real issue - the timing. All the additional leverage does is masks the problem. On a properly timed Savage you can lift and cycle the bolt using minimal effort with your index finger.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JCalhoun

The problem with the Savage lift is a timing issue.

http://www.savageshooters.com/conten...uing-Explained

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Can anyone explain this link with pics?

Its not a job you can do with your Dremel or a file. Those who can correctly time a Savage action have developed special tooling to do so.

I figured that. But the terms he uses is what confuses me. Like where he is cutting and what he is cutting.

He recuts the lug ramps in the action and the cocking ramp in the bolt body so that they're at the same angle and work in unison rather than against each other (which is what causes most of the binding associated with hard bolt lift).

Originally Posted by Willoughby
leverage is the best answer
a longer bolt handle reduces bolt lift far more than lubing -polishing- or lift kits
I've tried them all
all mine may have had timing issues when I got them & may still have timing issues
but the bolt lift problem WENT AWAY
when I put a longer bolt handle on them
several post in axis thread on this subject

Additional leverage isn't necessary if you fix the real issue - the timing. All the additional leverage does is masks the problem. On a properly timed Savage you can lift and cycle the bolt using minimal effort with your index finger

you are correct Sir
but there is a big difference in price
either way
the lift issue
is no longer an issue

what other issues
does timing correct ?

With a lift kit from kevin rayhill ,it adds .118 compression on the firing pin spring.I machined it off the bas and it cycles beautifully.Maybe I did wrong but it cycles so much better and it ejects better and have never had a misfire caused from doing this.