Is the brake on the 516 's supposed to lock open or closed ? I just got one and the brake easily moves back and forth from open to closed
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Is the brake on the 516 's supposed to lock open or closed ? I just got one and the brake easily moves back and forth from open to closed
IIRC there's a light detent for the open/closed position. Might just need a good cleaning.
http://www.savageshooters.com/conten...ke-Disassembly
Thanks
Anyone know where I can get one of these mussle brakes for my Striker 510?
better off going aftermarket and having a better one installed. By the time you locate a used one and pay to have it installed you can have a much better designed brake for similar money.Quote:
Originally Posted by Trapper
JMHO
boots, any suggestion on which muzzle brakes work best with the Striker. In your humble opinion of course. :)
There are literally tons to choose from. I prefer side discharge style brakes myself. For my rigs I have been building my own with great success. I have heard great things about the "Muscle" Brakes, but there are many good brands out there, this is the basic style I prefer. Here's a link that may be of help:
http://www.centershotrifles.com/prod...zle_brakes.php
The radial type brakes work well also, but if you are ever going to shoot prone or resting off a log/tree for a shot at a deer the radial type will try to blow up dirt/sand right in your face. However off the bench the radial types work pretty well and don't seem to blast the shooters to your sides quite as bad.
I have to agree that the factory brakes are not the best out there. They are pretty effective, but they are some of the loudest brakes I've ever used!
The side discharge brakes very effective but they typically need to be "timed" to the gun. Benchmark Barrels here in WA has a version of the Muscle Brake that doesn't need to be timed. It's a pretty cool modification.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t...dy/I6EOQF1.jpg
Andrew
No complaints here about the factory brake. I love em and in my opinion they are the greatest thing since the recoil pad. Very effective recoil reduction that can be turned on or off depending on the situation.What's not to love?
To the OP. Unless the brake is loose to the point of turning itself off and on I wouldn't take it apart. I would just try some Kroil or other penetrant and work it back and forth.
The muscle brake is a design by 358Hammer on here and was being sold through Jim at Centershotrifles.com. I have recently heard Jim is moving and is selling the business so he may or may not be open at the moment.Quote:
Originally Posted by Trapper
The muscle brake is a baffle type brake that has the first baffle at a 90 degree and and the next few baffles are vented much more rearward. The idea is to the most effectiveness but also using the 90 degree baffle to shear off some of the back blast to the shooter. An
Another option is to contact Ross Schuler. He has several types of brakes available at very good prices.
Ross schuler is the best way to go for price and ability to do its job.
Andrew, good idea if you're switching barrels. How's the back blast on these? I had trouble with a brake (not this design) on a .223/20" barrel.
The back blast is not bad at all. They're still very load brakes, but you don't get that slap in the face like a lot of other designs. The factory brake on a 300 WSM striker was one of the most unpleasant things I've ever shot. The recoil wasn't bad, but the blast was enough to rattle your fillings loose. In fact it would actually push my glasses back every time I shot it.
Andrew