New rifle.. accutrigger concern.

Hey everyone, this is my first post. I just took my brand new M10 FCPK in .308 out to the range to break in the barrel. Shoots GREAT! However, the accutrigger started to lock up after a few shots. The firing pin was "dropping" when I'd rock the bolt handle down, so I'd have to re cock the handle to shoot. I didn't even slam the handle down that hard. When I did really slam it down hard intentionally it did the same thing every time. The trigger pull is out of the box from the factory set. Do I need to bring it up a little, or is there something more to it than that? Thanks guys.

Yep, need to adjust it up a little.

Mine was like that when I first got it as well. Annoyed the heck out of me cause I didn't have the tool with me at the range, so it had to wait till I got home. Just a turn or two on the pull adjustment will cure that issue.

Just received my new Savage 12 F Class 6mm BR two days ago. The accutrigger worked just fine until I adjusted the trigger to about the minimum setting when the trigger locked up. I tightened it up only a quarter of a turn and it worked with no problems. I like my target trigger set very light but I learned on my other Savage target rifles to be careful if to light a setting you can lock the trigger up. Took it to the range yesterday and it worker great.

Welcome Jake. Whatever you do.... dont pull it to the side without depressing the safty blade! :bolt:

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Originally Posted by stangfish

Welcome Jake. Whatever you do.... dont pull it to the side without depressing the safty blade! :bolt:

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But thats a design flaw of the accutrigger.............:rolleyes:

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Originally Posted by stangfish

Welcome Jake. Whatever you do.... dont pull it to the side without depressing the safty blade! :bolt:

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So what happens if you pull it to the side as you indicated? I am not that curious to find out on my own but would like to know.

The sear slams against the accurelease and won't fire until you cycle the bolt up and down. This re-cocks the cocking piece and (hopefully, although this is the flaw of the accutrigger) reengages the sear to the trigger.

FYI fort he O/P: The "flaw of the AccuTrigger" comments are tongue-in-cheek. Some self-proclaimed know-it-all was on here last week insisting it was a design flaw because it didn't function how HE thought it should. I'd post a link to the thread, but the info it contains isn't worth wasting my time to find it to get the link.

I tend to agree that it its in fact a flawed design. It is only reliable if set to some ridiculous pull weight, like 3-5 pounds. Every one I have owned slipped past the sear at one point or another, without me ever trying to lighten the trigger weight. Its a good thing the accurelease was there though, or it would have been a slam fire.
And i repeat, all three rifles(yes three) were at factory, UN touched settings when they failed to engage the sear. I could only get them reliable after almost maxing out the return spring and removing the grease that the factory put on the sear. By that time it was a rough, 4 pound trigger.

Let's just think about what we are saying here. The argument is that the Accu-Trigger has a "design flaw" if you pull it to the side. I was never informed that I should be pulling the trigger to the side. Whoever has been advocating pulling the trigger to the side in the first place has a flaw in their instruction. IMO a flaw is only a flaw if it affects the intended use. The intended use is to be pulled straight back, not to the side, end of story. Otherwise it is sloppy marksmanship. I do realize the natural motion used to squeeze the trigger is not uni-directional and there will be some movement in the direction perpendicular to the triggers motion. However it should not be enough to cause the sear to move. FWIW I do have a rifle with the Accu-Trigger and it is a great system that I have had zero issues with.

Also bear in mind how the system is designed to work. It was designed so if the rifle was dropped or jarred the sear would be blocked by the Accu-Release. Essentially the complaint is if you apply force in such a way that sear is disengaged it is a pain to have to re-cock the rifle, which in essence is why we are able to have such a light trigger pull in the first place. This is what could happen if the rifle was dropped.

Bottom line: Pull the trigger straight back and have a nice day.

Ron Coburn has got to corral his QC dept and stop these niggling little problems that seem to crop up. One customer with these problems can spread the word and the next thing you hear is "what do you expect from a cheap pc. of crap". Extreme bolt lift problerms, missing nubs on the bolt hand that gives primary extraction etc. To the guy buying his one and only hunting rifle (and that is the majority of buyers) and has these problems is all it takes to build a bad rep. Not everyone is like those on this forum, they just trade in the rifle for a Remington instead of trying to diagnose these problems and how to fix them. The accuracy and ability to customize that is attractive to we few is meaningless to the guy who just wants a decent hunting rifle, they outnumber us 10,000 to one.

El Lobo

That has nothing to do with my personal experience with any of my accutriggers.
All i did whenever i had the problem was cycle the bolt to feed a round. I go to pull the trigger and its jammed because the trigger never engaged the sear upon cycling of the bolt and instead jammed against the accurelease.
Of course you aren't supposed to pull the trigger without pulling on the accurelease first. Anyone with the slightest clue as to its design intention should know that.
To reiterate, my finger is always off of and away from the trigger when i cycle any bolt.

The Accutrigger is Flawed!!!!! :devilish: :behindsofa:

Don't be too hard on Chocolabs. I think he is coming around. He's my new bud.

Well I have had 4 with accutrigger and have never had one of them malfunction. Hope it stays that way.

I have never had any issues with my accu triggers and I really like them.

When mine is VERY cold @ 30 degrees (yes I hunt and or target shoot in that weather) my sear would trip on occasion. I could have the gun at house temp @ 70 degrees (fresh out of the safe) and cycle it a hundred times, no trip. So, just adjusted it up a bit and took care of its cold weather "issue". Not another sear trip since. Love them easy fixes! And most of all LOVE THAT ACCUTRIGGER!

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Originally Posted by pitsnipe

When mine is VERY cold @ 30 degrees (yes I hunt and or target shoot in that weather) my sear would trip on occasion. I could have the gun at house temp @ 70 degrees (fresh out of the safe) and cycle it a hundred times, no trip. So, just adjusted it up a bit and took care of its cold weather "issue".

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A liberal application of Ronson lighter fluid would have cured the cold issue too. If it works in 70 degree weather but not when its 30 degrees it long overdue for a "de-gunking".

Bill

Bill,


Not to continue a hijack too much further but it looks spotless. Will try the cleaning with setting back to where it was.
Thanks!

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Originally Posted by pitsnipe

Bill,
Not to continue a hijack too much further but it looks spotless. Will try the cleaning with setting back to where it was.
Thanks!

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Really its not off topic.

Anything that interferes with the sear to trigger engagement/reset can and will cause problems, Accu-Trigger or otherwise. "Looks spotless" only applies to what can be seen. In the case of a Savage there can be a buildup of gook between the sear, trigger housing and/or the sear pin.

Another common issue is sear bind. When the pin is installed sometimes it causes the "ears" of the sear to distort and "pinch" on the trigger housing. After installing the housings and sears, I use a pin punch to tap the ears outward then check to make sure it moves unrestricted and it's full range of travel.

Those my be a few of the reasons some have trouble with the ATs....Dunno!

Bill