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Has anyone ever heard of this? My father in law was telling me about something he heard about people taking their hollow synthetic stocks and squirting some silicone in the hollow part and and a fishing weight in the middle of the silicone giving the the gun a little more weight and the lead weight would be a a bit of a shock absorber. What do you guys think
No thoughts on this? It makes sense to me but I don't wanna ruin my stock so was thinking of lining the stock with a plastic bag first
A fishing weight? How big is "A" fishing weight? 1/2 oz would do nothing.
I put 4 45-70 cases filled with lead in my stock to help balance it out....The front was barrel heavy...lol
I know Frank shoved a bunch of buck shot in his.
Or something like that...
So the weight is common but what about the silicone
Never heard of the silicone, but some have mixed shot into epoxy then poured into the stock. I did it this way to fill and solidify a mag well, worked for me.
Do a search I think some have even used beach sand.
Do you guys think the weight suspended in silicone would be more effective then a dead weight like epoxy or sand. I would think silicone would absorb more energy then a dead weight
If you're dealing with flex weight won't satisfy. You need a brace like a rod. If you are dealing with balance then weight and silicon would be one way to solve that issue. I have used silicon gel in motorcycle handlebars to absorb vibration. Lotta ways to skin a cat but most folks bought tupperware stocks to cut weight so making a tupperware stock into a heavier stock defeats the whole purpose of that stock. The main issue is to make sure the barrel doesn't touch to stock, You obviously like the inexpensive silicon and lead approach. You can always remove the silicon if you don't like it.
Found these while searching it says to epoxy them to the side of the stock and use spray flame to fill the rest of the cavity
http://www.edwardsrecoilreducer.com/
My question is=I don't understand why people buy a rifle that kicks and then try to tame it down..Why not just buy a tamer rifle in the first place...Or why not just have a brake put on it...?
I'm no expert but have looked into brakes and they are expensive and even more expensive to have installed. I bought this rifle for long range hunting and can handle the recoil but if I can reduce recoil and give the rifle better balance for under $10 then why not
You have to remember some of the recoil pads are glued on and a ***** to remove with out reuining them..
If the stock is hollow-just put a package of bb's in it..
Did you ever take a Fiziks class?
physics? I haven't taking any
Take all you can. Froggy is on the right track and the large fishing weights will work. so will lead shot or tire balance weights. remember that you will change the balance of the weapon as well as effect the comfort level of carrying a lighter weapon. A good brake is ideal but a heavy stock works . Why did you need so much cartridge?
I bought the 300 for long range public hunting. My marlin 30-30 is my go to rifle for under 200yrds
Silicone used with lead fishing weights is a good idea for one who wants to keep cost down. The whole concept of the silicon is to keep the weights from rattling and making unwanted noise, especially in a hunting rig. I say go for it and try to get in as much lead as you can to actually make a difference. I't would be even cheaper if you could stop by a couple local auto shops and ask for a few handfuls of wheel weights. You could cut them up into pieces to get more in but make sure you apply enough silicone during the process. Like mentioned before if you don't like the results the weights and silicone can be removed.
I use decorative sand from Wal-Mart....works great, is clean, and easy to undo if you want. I just take two Q-Tip sticks and put them in the recoil pad screw holes so the sand does not go there....you don't want it to go there! been there done that!...and pour the sand in the stock. No rattle, no mess, no fuss. Makes a hollow stock very solid.
I ended up packing a couple sheets of paper in the stock, a tube of silicone, a couple 2.5 oz weights then about 1/4 of the styrofoam that came in there to begin with. I'll let you guys know sat how much difference it made
Sounds like the lead weight in the silicone might work like one of those $60 Benelli recoil reducers. Give it a shot and let us know how it works.
I made a lead wedge, which can also be bought http://www.sinclairintl.com/gun-part...prod34319.aspx and then made a wooden frame which was contoured to the inside of the stock. The wood frame had a snug fit inside the stock. I cut the approximate shape of the lead wedge out of the center of the wood frame and then epoxied the lead wedge in the wooden frame. When it's finished the lead wedge has a "picture frame" of wood that will fit inside the stock. What's nice about this is it adds weight to the rifle and tames recoil yet is easily reversible and won't rattle in the stock.
As Im sure a lot of you know; fully floated barrels are not "always" the most accurate. sometimes, it does more good to fully bed a barrel than to float it. I have used silicone < black GE brand> for some time now to help with barrel harmonics on thinner barrels that have issues. The sillicone "dampens" barrel harmonics after a shot, acting just like a silicone bushing on a carbody, or on a motor mount. Ive seen incredible improvements with some rifles.....the best was a rem700 in 308 that had a 22" barrel. Nothing helped until I squirted in the silicone.....then magicly, It started giving sub-moa groups with box and surplus ammo. All your doing is taming the vibrations....think of a tuning fork that is struck, now imagine placing that fork against something as hard as wood. The vibrations are xferred into the wood with great force....now, imagine that same amout of energy resting on a silicone bed.
If you have a weapon that just wont settle down.....try bedding the entire barrel channel in sillicone. If it doesnt work, it will peel right back out....now harm, no foul.
I have a friend that had acquired a few rifles from a guy who shot bench rest and one of the rifles had some silicone under the barrel for vibration damping. I thought WTH is that but when I saw the accuracy of the gun I didn't ask any more questions.:suspicion:Quote:
Originally Posted by fatboy-john
Matt, I have been waiting on a denial from Frank, but it hasn't happened. I didn't really want to know.
Wait, what? Haha.Quote:
Originally Posted by stangfish
I packed the butt void on a Choate Varmint with lead fishing weights. Dramatically improved the way the rifle sat on a rear bag but this was an ftr with 30" heavy barrel which is very front heavy.
I used expanding filler but recoil shook it all loose so moved on to silicon.
The extra weight does considerably reduce the recoil.
There is a stock maker here in the UK that adds weight to the adjustable cheekpiece to keep as much of the mass in line with the bore as possible. This helps manage recoil by reducing muzzle flip.
i use the lead fishing weights and duct seal i got from work i was able to jam it in with a pencil and stack the weight in tight . it wolds around anything and wont harden.
I get to the closest weight I can per the guidelines for the entire rifle.
I use #9 lead shot with expoxy in the butt of the stock. If you add too much, it's easy to drill out the amount needed to correct your total weight.
Reasons: First, it stabilizes the rifle during shooting. Second and probably the biggest reason, it's easy on your shoulder. You can't free recoil the rifle, but it's close.
I have tried the mercury inserts, but I perfer the #9 shot and expoxy.
I have an edwards in my BT100 It definately made a long day of shooting more enjoyable. I have one sitting in the safe too it might end up in the new gun. I know why guys try to tame down a rifle, I have a buddy that has a bone disorder and can fracture bones real easy so between a brake, managed recoil loads, the edwards he can shoot the rifle without getting bone fractures.
I put a 26" light varmint barrel on a stevens 200 and the balance was a little too far forward. I took the recoil pad off and added shot until the balance was right and then used fiberglass resin thinned out with acetone to fill in around the shot and keep everything stable. If you do something like this I would recommend using neutral shoe polish or similar as a release agent on the recoil pad and screws so that you can remove it again if you ever want to. Super happy with how it worked out on this rifle, good luck.
The silicone worked great. I used a 10oz tube of silicone and 3 2.5oz weights so I figure I added about a pound to the rifle. It tammed the recoil a little but it holds a lot better. I just stood the rifle with the stock facing up and put all the silicone in then dropped the weights in and cut about an inch of the stirofoam that came out of it. This filled the entire void. I left the rifle leaning against the wall for a day till it set up then screwed the pad back on
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