Savage Factory Muzzle Brake Question

I acquired a factory small shank 26" stainless barrel in 300 RUM and have a question regarding the brake on this barrel. I have no reason to believe it is not factory installed. I recall years ago I was looking at an Alaskan Model 112 and the brake was very easy to rotate to open or close it. Very little effort was need. I have two other Savage 112's one in 338 Win Mag and one in 270 Win, both with brakes that cannot be closed. They have holes actually drilled into the barrels. This 300 RUM barrel I have looks exactly like what I recall seeing on that Alaskan but it will not close. Did Savage make more than one type of brake? The one on my barrel has two knurled rings just above where it attaches to the barrel with about 3/16" between the knurled rings. I have attempted to soak the brake in break free and wrap it with a leather strap in some vise grips and it did not want to move. I did not torque on it hard, but hard enough that it should have done something. Is it possible this thing is just jammed somehow or is it not supposed to close??

Jeff

Looks like this?

[img width=600 height=445]http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n23/jlcpls/100_1819.jpg[/img]

If there is a seam near the muzzle like the above picture, than I assume its adjustable but stuck.

Yes, looks exactly like that one. Any ideas on how to get it un-stuck?? Seems like a pretty simple device without many moving parts. Looking at the muzzle, what direction do you need to rotate the mid section of the brake to close it. Clock or counter clockwise? This thing is stuck good and I don't understand how. Theres nothing to stick in there is there??

Jeff

Old picture. I've since sold it.

Jeff, there is an article somewhere here that shows the operation and how to remove this thing entirely. I think it needs to be in the open position and involves some firm cleaning rods.

I would attempt to remove it, and continue soaking it, and applying low to moderate heat in a pinch (I baked stuck metal parts at 300F before).

Give me a second, I'll see if I can find it.

voila:


http://savageshooters.com/SavageForu...pic,509.0.html

yeah i have the same one on my 116, and when it gets locked up, a lil lube and/or some heat will break it free.

how hard is it to take one off, and is it a normal righthand thread or lefty like an AK?

You're on the right track keep soaking it and rock it back and forth with the strap and the pliers. Be patient and try it everyday I think the last time one of mine locked up ( from putting it away without lube on the brake) it took about a week and a half to get it loose again. They always get
a couple of drops of break free in the closed position now and I work em a couple of times before storage
Good luck BHJ

You guys are giving me some hope here. I mean this this is locked up tighter than Toby's Tater right now. I have had experience with stainless steel fittings tightened hand tight locking up in the past to where I could not unscrew them with a pipe wrench. I was worried the detent pins were galled somehow locking it up and rendering the brake unuseable in the closed position. I will keep trying to soak. Have not tried heat yet. Will do that this morning and see how it goes.

Will keep you posted.

Jeff

hey not to get off topic but where can i buy another muzzle break like the one in jethro's picture, would like to replace mine due to beating it up over the years tryin to break it free when it locks up.

thankx a bunch

I may need to go down that road myself. I have doubts that this thing is ever going to open again. How hot can I get it before it's "Too Hot"? I have been heating it with a propane torch to the point where the Break Free Smokes a little. The directions say to get two pins the size of the holes in the brake to use as leverage?? What the heck are you supposed to grab the pins with??

Jeff

lock it in a vice, then after you heat it up, wrap a rag around the break, put a tight fitting nail through it, hook it with the claw end of a hammer and turn it counter clockwise.just like if you were taking a nail out of a board, the nail will bend and wrap around the break a lil, or at least it did on me, but this should take the break all the way off.it took lots of force... once its off then you can take it apart and clean it real well.just be carefull not to scratch up the gun, mine is painted so i didnt mind so much, but thats how i did it, i had to come all the way off, ther was just no freeing it up, so now i would really like to put a new one on there.

OK, so when the brake is working properly, does just the top knurled ring turn or do both?? I want to make sure that when I am trying to twist this thing that I am not attempting to move one that is supposed to be stationary. When I clamp the barrel in the vise, do I want to grab both rings or just the front one??

Jeff

both, the outer part that turns is one whole piece.it wasnt until i removed mine that i knew how in the heck it was even held together.....

Well, mine appears to be screwed to the barrel so tightly that there is no way the thing could possibly turn. That may be part of the problem. There should be a visible gap between the bottom knurled ring and the barrel and there is not.

Jeff

i wouldnt really call it a gap, i dont think that even paper would slide between the break and the barrel, but like i said mine was so gummed up with crud i had to remove the whole break and then get it moving, maybe try that.just remember that while looking down the barrel turn the break counter clockwise( and of course that the gun is unloaded :o ), but thats just my thoughts....wish i could be more help, but i just took my break off for the first time 3 nights ago.....

also ,do any off you guys know what the thread size, and /or the threads per inch are....tried to count it myself but it just dont seem right.....im such a noob ???

i think there 9/16 by 28

Well, there is zero visible gap in mine so I think I am going to go with your removal idea and then work backwards and try to unfreeze it and then reinstall. Even under a magnifying glass, there is not the slightest hint of a gap between the brake and the barrel. I would think that there is a torque spec to follow during installation to prevent this from happening.

Jeff

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by just some dude

lock it in a vice, then after you heat it up, wrap a rag around the break, put a tight fitting nail through it, hook it with the claw end of a hammer and turn it counter clockwise.just like if you were taking a nail out of a board, the nail will bend and wrap around the break a lil, or at least it did on me, but this should take the break all the way off.it took lots of force... once its off then you can take it apart and clean it real well.just be carefull not to scratch up the gun, mine is painted so i didn't mind so much, but thats how i did it, i had to come all the way off, there was just no freeing it up, so now i would really like to put a new one on there.

---

Man, that worked slick. You get a tremendous amount of leverage with the hammer and the nail is softer than the brake so no risk of a scratch either. I have it off the barrel now and am soaking in break Free for a few days. I still see no way to take it apart now that it is off. The exploded parts drawing put up by Jethro is great but it does not have any instructions on how to take it apart. Is it just supposed to fall apart when it is not stuck? Is the center supposed to be pressed out gently? I don't want to damage the thing but I don't want to make a career out of this P.O.S. either! ???

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Trapaddict

...... The exploded parts drawing put up by Jethro is great but it does not have any instructions on how to take it apart. Is it just supposed to fall apart when it is not stuck? Is the center supposed to be pressed out gently? I don't want to damage the thing but I don't want to make a career out of this P.O.S. either! ???

---

I never took one apart. ;) Just remembered where the drawing was in the FAQ's.

Anything I could offer would be speculation, which according to my wife, is dangerous enough at it lessor extent.

cool, im really glad that worked for you....yes the break (when its nice and clean) should just come right apart.you have 4 parts there, the sleeve the core and the 2 little (and i do mean little) roll pins or whatever they are called...i will try to post some pics for you tonight of the parts and how they assemble.

Tried giving it a little twist tonight and still no go. Wrapped the knurled part in a leather tube and clamped in the vise and gripped the very thin edge of the brake near the muzzle with curved padded pliars and heated up until break free started to smoke again and still would not budge. Dropped back into break free for another day. >:(

Jeff

sorry these pics are kinda bad, had to use my phone...but try this, i used a socket extension that fit into the bottom of the break, wrap a lil tape around the big end so it fit snug and kept the threads from getting damaged, then struck it firmly on a hard surface, a lil bit of heat may be needed...also as it starts to come apart, watch the top cause the 2 lil pins will fall out almost right away, you can see in the pic just how small they are.if you lock it in a vise for any reason be careful not to over tighten as it might crush it into a bit of an oval shape and not thread back on to the barrel....and that would suck!!
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x...lebreak001.jpg
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x...lebreak004.jpg
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x...lebreak005.jpg
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x...lebreak006.jpg
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x...lebreak002.jpg

i just purchased a savage model 16 with a muzzle brake... there is a tiny gap between the muzzle brake that will make a clicking noise when you move the gun up and down.. is this normal or do i need to take it back to get it fixed