Bedding a model 12 FVSS

Hello all, Im new to the site, long time savage shooter though. Ran into my first problem...well perdicament. I have glass bedded bolt actions that are DBM's and only DBM's. I just bought a model 12FVSS, got a B&C Medalist, need some advise on some things.

#1. When I bed my DBM, I am able to go in from underneath and clean up the mag well. However, FVSS is a blind mag, centerfeed as you all may know.

My question is simply, how can I mask the area within the stock to prevent the compound from entering the mag well, and do so in such a way that I can still get in there with a swab and clean up the excess that squeezes out? Also will I need to just tape the bottom of the mag and bed underneath it as well in order to prevent the action from rising too high to feed rounds properly? Or is the couple .000's of an " of bedding gonna have any effect on that at all?

I have only bedded one savage, so there may be a better way.

I taped up the bottom of the mag well on the action, and then let the bedding go where it went. Rather than try to get it out with a qtip while it was still moldable, I waited until it had dried. Then I cleaned it up with a dremel and sanding drum.

Sean

Thanks for your input Sean. I was thinking something similar to that would work I got some non hardening modeling clay and I use it to fill the damson my actions when I bed so I think I+ gonna try that on top of the mag and try to keep as much out of the well as possible and take your advise and do my finishing work with a dremel. Any input though on if the internal mag will still feed ok after bedding the action,i.e. it won't be to low to cause mis feeds? I'm probably gonna try to bed around 1/16" around the action screws, got my recoil lug taped for relief to and the first 4~5" of the barrel channel for added support.

Definately tape the recoil lug on the bottom, back and sides.

I have not had any issue with my internal mag after bedding. Any that I may have had I took care of with the dremel!!

As far as the action screws go, I bedded right up to them. Make sure you get plenty of release agent on them. I think I went and got some long bolts and cut the head off when I did mine. They stuck out about an inch from the bottom of the stock, and I used a mallet on them to get the action free once the bedding had set up. (I still have a hammer mark on my stock where I missed one with the hammer!!!)

It seems like I had a devil of a time around the rear action screw and trigger assy. I finally just taped it and put a bunch of putty around the trigger assy. Once the bedding had set, I cleaned it up with the dremel. (Those are handy tools!!)

There are several good youtube videos that show how to bed a stock. Don't forget to ensure the tang is freefloated.

Sean

Haha I hear ya on the rear action screw and all pain since their set up with the screw in front of the rear tang lol and ya my dremel has got me outta some trouble in the past and i feel lost without it on projects lo
But you said tape the back of the recoil lug?? I have always taped the front top and sides left the back untouched to give relief but I'm hoping my clay idea work on the mag and all but thanks again for the helpful insight Sean!

You are right. Front taped, back NOT!! My bad.

Haha alright I was wondering I was thinking and thought crap gotta redo that lol but also one thing I wanted to ask the action screws are 1/4" correct wit what's the thread pitch?? 28 is what it looks like? Everywhere was out of inletting screws when I bought my stock so I'm stuck pilfering through the hardware store shelves today lol

I use plumbers putty to fill voids, etc...when bedding. It is much less expensive than play-doh or modeling clay. 3-5 bucks gets you about a quart of it. It never hardens. Good stuff.

When I bedded my rifle I gooped a lot of release agent on the magwell bottom, sides and back. Then whatever bedding compound was there was easy to pop off. I would cut it at the top with a razor knife and the stuff in the magwell came off the wood quite easily.

Thanks for the input Thomae. I appreciate it greatly! When I ot your post I already had it tightened down curing lol. The results were nothing short of amazing though. I used the miles Gilbert kits release agent some kiwi shoe polish for recoil lug and action, and got some non hardening clay at hobby lobby for 60% off lol it all worked great, however next time mag is staying out and I'll put release agent in the well and just knock out what runs over. And btw the medalists stocks are a fantastic value for the money!

I remove the trigger assy and only to the front of the trigger area do I apply the epoxy. I use a spray type release and when it drys(the epoxy) the reciever etc falls out.I would also remove the magazine and let it squishes into,use your dremel to trim the fat.I have taped triggers in the past without disassembling,but now I just remove any and all parts that could get epoxy all over them and make a big mess.I also use the original bedding screws to set the reciever in the epoxy and I coat them with grease.I tighten till the reciever bottoms out and back off a quarter turn and leave them. Hasnt failed me yet.

Yupp you said it Jon that's pretty much exactly what I did I disassembled the trigger and all and used a liquid release agent along with kiwi shoe polish which works nively and leaves my stainless parts nice and polished as well lol but ya only thing i would do different is to leave the mag out and clean up with a dremel cuz th clay was a b to get out lol. I thank you all for your help and recommendations as I hadn't done a blind mag before only dBm, and the results were fantastic! I would post some pics but I'm on my phone now but will when I get time!