Removal of Factory ON/OFF Muzzle Brake???

Anyone tried to take one of these brakes off? Thinking about taking it off and gunsmithing it on a new barrel, whatever that may require. . .

I like the ON/OFF feature,

It looked closely, and it appears that they counterbore the muzzle after drilling the holes in it, then thread it, slide the ON?OFF sleeve on with some sort of detent system, then thread a muzzle cap on thatholds the slider in place. . . .

Anyone try messing with these,

Inquiring minds want to know!

I'll probably end up buying a Shrewd, because I have shot Vias and a shrewd, both on RUM's and the Shrewd seemed to be easier on the shoulder by a good margin. . .

Nobody's fiddled with one of these??

...............Sharpshooter can tell you exactly how to remove it, maybe he will chime in.

It is a complete assembly that is threaded on the barrel not built like you are describing.

From memory (best to wait to hear from SSS before you try) pretty sure it has standard threads, you open it and insert a steel rod through the holes then turn it off as an assembly. Some kroil on the junction where it hits the barrel overnight would be a good idea to help loosen it up.

I've always used a bandsaw.... ;D
I think Too many is correct, although I've never un-screwed one.

Well Fred. . .. .
After half a can of Kroil, 12 hours of waiting, and 3 bent punches later. . . . that SOB is still on there. . . .

Does anyone have one they cut off that I can get a hold of and try to get it apart, so I don't have to destroy a good Factory barrel tryin to get this apart. . ..
:'( ???
If all else fails, I will call the mother ship in Massachusetts to see if they can help me, after the holidays that is. .. . .

And now you know why I use a bandsaw.... ;D

If Savage uses Rocksett like the brake and gas block on my DPMS LR308B, then heating it up makes it fairly easy to remove. I used a propane single burner camp stove because I don't have a torch. Heating it sufficiently makes the Rocksett soft.

hmm, I'm sticking with my original inference on this one, that thing is machined on the bbl itself, . . . . .

Im callin Mass. ASAP

I'll keep y'all posted on my progress

I'm certain its threaded on and probably with Hi-temp rocksett. You'll have to get it real hot before it will unthread-not heat gun hot but torch hot.

[quote=I'll probably end up buying a Shrewd, because I have shot Vias and a shrewd, both on RUM's and the Shrewd seemed to be easier on the shoulder by a good margin. . .
[/quote]

+1 On the Shrewd brakes. Have three.

I have removed three. no thread lock. just the same gal that put on the barrel nut and bolt screw. put 3 or 4 nails through it and clamp it in something. turn the gun and the brake screwed off. the thread is an odd 9/16 that nothing common will match, so it the end you wind up cutting it to put on something else.

THANK YOU avenger!

I will go give that a shot, I was planning on using it on a 300 RUM build with a shilen barrel, so I can thread the muzzle to match the brake, I just don't think I will want the brake 'on' when hunting with it . .. . .

I'll let ya'll know!

SUCCSESS IS MINE!!

BTW: Finishing nails are too soft for this project, and the muzzle is threaded 9/16" X 28 TPI, A Gentry #2 among others will screw right on these bbls

[img width=600 height=450]http://i46.tinypic.com/2yvm800.jpg[/img]

[img width=600 height=450]http://i48.tinypic.com/rmsizo.jpg[/img]

[img width=600 height=450]http://i48.tinypic.com/1088ncy.jpg[/img]

This needs to be a "How To" sticky!

Bob

You'd be surprized how much recoil reduction that factory brake is good for...
It's only about 20%. If you think the Shrewd brake is better than the Vais, bring it over and we can test it on my recoil fixture.

Yep, that dried white stuff on the threads is Rocksett. Heat it up red hot and it comes off much easier.

Fred,
You want me to buy a shrewd and a Vias, you think I'm made of money or what, not to mention I would have to thread the barrel 2-3 times

Well now that I fought to get it off there, I'll probably still buy a Shrewd for my 300, or perhaps . . .. .

What do ya'll think?

This thread interested me as I received a new 10FLCP-K from my former unit and Savage as a retirement gift. Mine has a muzzle brake but it's the newer one (not the adjustable one as shown in the instruction booklet). It is simply "slotted" for a wrench on the threaded end.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by TheShootist1894

Fred,
You want me to buy a shrewd and a Vias, you think I'm made of money or what, not to mention I would have to thread the barrel 2-3 times

Well now that I fought to get it off there, I'll probably still buy a Shrewd for my 300, or perhaps . . .. .

What do ya'll think?

---

Don't buy anything till I talk to you at the show...

10-4, don't forget my bolt handles!

Thanks
Karl

Those wouln't be left hand tactical bolt handles, would they?

uj

HAHA, just cause we chat at the gunshow doesn't mean he can magically make LH bolt handles for me. .. these are the rough cast ones Fred has been selling

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by sharpshooter

You'd be surprized how much recoil reduction that factory brake is good for...
It's only about 20%. If you think the Shrewd brake is better than the Vais, bring it over and we can test it on my recoil fixture.

---

I was amazed how much difference that factory brake made.

Have you tested the Armalite brake? or the Holland? By "feel" the Armalite is the most effective I have ever used but the back blast is pretty strong, particularly in the 50 BMG. It makes a 338 Lapua feel like a 243.

Recoil reduction will vary with the caliber and powder to bullet weight ratio. I've never tested an Armalite brake, but if it is of the clamshell type and redirects gas rearward, that type is really hard on scopes.
I've tested both Holland brakes and the original was only good for about 25%, the quick discharge model was slightly better at 35. Any brake with vent holes angling forward, typically done for noise control, will sacrafice about 50% of it's braking capability only to lose about 5 decibels of noise.
[img width=600 height=249]http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y48/sharp-shooter/recoilfixture.jpg[/img]
The fixture rides on Thompson linear ball bearings and slides approx. 30". When you have a rifle in the fixture it has 1 lb of rolling resistance when measured with a trigger pull gauge. The tape measure attached will unroll itself when in motion.
Larger calibers require more weight to be added to create more resistance so the scarriage will not bottom out at the end of it's travel.
The trigger is activated by a seperate arm that is tipped forward to trip the trigger without interfering with the free travel.

What is that big green machine doing in your shop???

I thought you were beyond that Fred . . .

That "green machine" is in that fixture to prove how worthless the slots are in the barrel of that Rem VTR. It recoiled the same with or without the slots blocked. All it does it make it louder.

Am about to add a break to a .243. Have to reduce both recoil and concussion. How does the Mussel Break stack up to these others?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by appleseed

Have to reduce both recoil and concussion. You can reduce recoil by re-directing the gases, the concussion will still be there although it is in a different direction


How does the Mussel Break stack up to these others? Dunno, I've not tested one yet.

---

Quote:

---

That "green machine" is in that fixture to prove how worthless the slots are in the barrel of that Rem VTR. It recoiled the same with or without the slots blocked. All it does it make it louder.

---

I remember you talking about that now that you mention it. . . yet another unnecessary innovation from the other side of the fence. . .

Triangle barrels, integral slot muzzle brake thingys, customer adjustable triggers that are no better than the original. . . . and pretty much the exact same action they've been using for almost 50 years. .. .innovation

The 110 may still be called the 110, but it is no where near the rifle they brought out back in '58. . .

My misspelling...that should be Muscle Break from Center Shot Rifles.

What brakes tame recoil the best for small to medimum calibers, .223, .243, .260?

Mine, of coarse. ;D

Never used a Vais but I know they are good. My shoulder (better than a measurement on a mechanical instrument) tells me the Shrewd is fairly effective...at least on a 300WSM and 7MM Magnum.