How necessary is Loctite on scope mount?

I just received my EGW picatinny mount for my new Stevens 308. You all probably know the front hangs over the barrel nut, so I will have to remove the rail to take the barrel off. I do plan to do this after hunting season this year to put on a 7mm-08 barrel.

So I am asking for info on how important the loctite is for the short term. I've always used loctite on my scope mounts, but I never removed them. I sold guns with scope attached and still have one I haven't changed. I'm not even sure HOW you remove loctite to break screws free again. This 308 barrel will not see more than 40 rounds of Fusion Lite (170 gr. @ 2000 fps) before I change barrels. Then again, if it's easy enough to undo the loctite, I guess it's no big deal. I would just have to know how to do that.

Thanks for any advice/info.

I never use Loctite.

Never have found the need.

NOT needed, But I have seen some squirt down extra BLUE to use as bedding for the base.

Thanks, guys. I might bed the mount after hunting season. I'm not going to worry about it now (if ever). The hunting in my neck of the woods is very close range. I doubt if I'll ever see a 150 yard shot.

Blue Loctite will not prevent the screws from being removed, or cause damage when they are. There's no "HOW" to the removal process beyond applying the normal Allen/Torx wrench. You're thinking of red loctite, which has to be heated above 600F IIR. There's no reason to use red anywhere around a scope.

KeS

I don't feel that it's needed...mounts and bases should be torqued in in/lbs. Buy a good torque wrench like the Borka or the less expensive FAT wrench.

I use purple locktite #222 on my scope and mount rings. It's insurance.
Typically my torque values (using a dial torque wrench) are 20 in/pounds base to action screws, 30 in/pounds ring to base crossbolts, and 20 in/lbs ring screws. Never had one fall off yet.
Make sure your front screw is not bottoming on the barrel threads.

In 30+ years of shooting I've never once used Locktite on any of my scope mounts, and I've yet to have one come loose or fall off. I just use my highly sensitive and perfectly calibrated sense of feel to determine the proper tightness of the mounting screws. While I do have a FAT torque wrench, the only time I use it is when tighting down the four torx screws on Burris Signature Zee rings (@ 25in-lbs) as I've had the heads snap off several of them over the years due to their weak strength.

If you are planning on removing the screws later I suggest using oil not thread locker.

If you need to use thread locker for any reason +1 on the purple stuff.

I always use blue loctite between the receiver and scope base. The holding force of the loctite far exceeds that of the tiny fasteners. Once the loctite has set up, I could take the screws out of the base and you could not budge the base.

I never buy extended rails, so I would never need to change them or remove them. What I do want is no movement whatever of the rail to the receiver and using loctite (after checking fitup) is the easiest way to accomplish this. If for some weird reason I needed to remove it, a little heat from a blowtorch will soften the blue loctite to allow it to be removed. So far, I have never had to touch one of my bases after fitting it. Having said that, I use Warne Maxima rings (their "permanent" ones) and I never use loctite on those because being steel and having 4 relatively large screws that can be fastened pretty tight (and there being 2 rings in a scope) I cannot see how those will ever work loose. As an engineer myself, I find the rail attachment to generally be the week link in the entire optical system.

I specifically bought a TC Icon to try out the "machined into the receiver" optical rail. I wish all rifles would have them. Unfortunately, I got a lousy barrel on my example and I bought it used and the warranty was expired .... Not to even mention that there are no aftermarket barrels for the Icon, so I am SOL...

FWIW, Loctite and other threadlockers are anaerobic. They harden/set up when there is no oxygen. If they are left in an area where air can circulate, they will never harden. According to their technical data sheets, generally speaking, the smaller the gap, the stronger the bond.

Good info.

If you have to rely on Loc tite to secure scope mounts, you have the wrong mounts and the wrong screws.

I use clear nail polish and have for years on little screws on scopes and such, easy to remove just enough locking ability to keeps things from moving. And I have seen several screws come loose on scope mounts, just last week on a 7 ultra mag as a matter of fact. I learned to use it years ago in archery sites **** pins used to rattle loose shootin them big hatchet cams when they first came out. The application has come in handy for alot of things over time. If you feel the need to use something try it...

=+= on the nail polish..works great and the screws will come out without too much effort..