Laser Bore Sight, was WAAYYY OFF!

I took my axis too the range with the new laser bore sight, its one of the ones that goes in the chamber and is shaped like a bullet. I sighted my scope in with it, and then took a few shots, and my shots weren't even on the paper. So i checked it again, and it said it was still centered, so i got a piece of plywood, and my shots at 200yrds were about 14'' off to the right, so i got out my rest and sighted it in the old fashion way, and now its zero'd at 200yrds and shooting consistantly

what i'm finding perplexing, is that my laser sight says that the barrel is now very much so off, but i'm shooting very consistently.

There really just for getting on paper a close range nor 200 yards ;-)

P.S. there's no bullet to hold it straight in the throat so the ejector had it pulled to the right maybe????

I feel your pain! Mine won't even get you close to paper at close range. I don't trust any of them anymore. I just center the target in the bore looking down the barrel and then line up the cross hairs from there. I have one of the lasers that goes into the muzzle end of the barrel. It looks right but must be machined wrong or something because every time I've used mine it's been off by a couple feet at 25 yards! I don't use it anymore.

+1 to MOA: Boresighting is to get you on paper only.

I have a muzzle mounted laser boresight that I use and it works like a champ. I screw it into the muzzle very carefully so it is centered as best as I can get it and so I don't score the sides of the aluminum body of the boresighter.

To get a reference, I took a centerfire rifle that was already scoped and sighted in and put the boresighter on it. After making sure the rifle was unloaded, I looked through the scope. Standing in my garage, the laser dot projected on my neighbor's house was approximately two rows of siding above the centerpoint of the scope.

I have used this reference several times when installing or changing scopes on different rifles. For me, if, from inside my garage, the red dot is centered (left to right) and two rows of siding (on my neighbor's house) higher than the center of the scope reticle, I am on paper.

Once boresighted, I start at 50 yards to confirm that I am close, and then move out to 100 yards to get a reasonable zero. Then ultimately (usually after only about 2-4 shots at 100 yards) I move out to 200 yards and start my serious sighting-in or load development.

You can probably find a reference point that works for you. The exact distance doesn't really matter as long as you can see the laser dot.

This works for me. YMMV.

(If my neighbor ever gets new, un-calibrated siding, I'll be in serious trouble!)

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Originally Posted by thomae

+1 to MOA: Boresighting is to get you on paper only.

I have a muzzle mounted laser boresight that I use and it works like a champ. I screw it into the muzzle very carefully so it is centered as best as I can get it and so I don't score the sides of the aluminum body of the boresighter.

To get a reference, I took a centerfire rifle that was already scoped and sighted in and put the boresighter on it. After making sure the rifle was unloaded, I looked through the scope. Standing in my garage, the laser dot projected on my neighbor's house was approximately two rows of siding above the centerpoint of the scope.

I have used this reference several times when installing or changing scopes on different rifles. For me, if, from inside my garage, the red dot is centered (left to right) and two rows of siding (on my neighbor's house) higher than the center of the scope reticle, I am on paper.

Once boresighted, I start at 50 yards to confirm that I am close, and then move out to 100 yards to get a reasonable zero. Then ultimately (usually after only about 2-4 shots at 100 yards) I move out to 200 yards and start my serious sighting-in or load development.

You can probably find a reference point that works for you. The exact distance doesn't really matter as long as you can see the laser dot.

This works for me. YMMV.

(If my neighbor ever gets new, un-calibrated siding, I'll be in serious trouble!)

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I'm going to try a muzzle loaded bore sight, however the one that I own is shaped like a 223 round, and is loaded into the chamber. although it showed that I was right on with it so that I could hone it in, when I put rounds through my rifle i was about 12" to the right and 4" down. and the grouping was consistent. So i just put it in a rest, and sighted it in the old fashion way. now i'm zero'd in. I'm not a great shot though. My groups are around 3" without a stand/rest or bipod.

Does the laser point of input change when you rotate it in the chamber?
Try pushing it in with your finger, a dowel, but not the bolt. As MOA suggested, perhaps the ejector is canting it.

I hope the muzzle mounted one you get is better than mine. When I used mine I thought, "how can the crosshairs be that far off from the laser?" Then when I shot it at 25 yards it was 3 feet high! I've got one of the tapered models that slides into the muzzle and has a laser on the end of it. Something is way off on mine. I hope you get a better one than what I've got. Good luck.

Put a piece of tape on the end of the brass so it gets pushed tight by the bolt. A method I've used in the past because the one I HAD would fit loosely in the chamber. Also, I'd set up & zero the scope, open the chamber & rotate the laser 180 Deg. Re-zreo the scope by using 1/2 the difference between the first sight in & second. You'll have a closer "average" sight in.

Laser bore sighter or muzzle bore sighter are great once you get used to their little quirks. I have to do the "180 degree average sight in" with my muzzle laser. Works real well to where I'm usually within 3 to 5 inches of the center, at 100yds.

Stay well,
Frank in Fla

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Originally Posted by fgw_in_fla

Put a piece of tape on the end of the brass so it gets pushed tight by the bolt. A method I've used in the past because the one I HAD would fit loosely in the chamber. Also, I'd set up & zero the scope, open the chamber & rotate the laser 180 Deg. Re-zreo the scope by using 1/2 the difference between the first sight in & second. You'll have a closer "average" sight in.

Laser bore sighter or muzzle bore sighter are great once you get used to their little quirks. I have to do the "180 degree average sight in" with my muzzle laser. Works real well to where I'm usually within 3 to 5 inches of the center, at 100yds.

Stay well,
Frank in Fla

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Thanks, next time i'll give the 180' degree trick a try. :)

I do it the ole fashion way. I put a 1" red disk downrange 100yds. I pull the bolt, line up the bore with the red disk and adjust the scope accordingly. Always gets me with 12 inches.

"I do it the ole fashion way. I put a 1" red disk downrange 100yds. I pull the bolt, line up the bore with the red disk and adjust the scope accordingly. Always gets me with 12 inches."
Amen! Except I've got a few actions that can't be done that way. All my bolt actions and lever actions get done that way though.

then start at 25 yards - shoot 1. You should be able to find the bullet at that range, make some quick adjustments by holding the gun steady, look thru scope and move crosshair from the bull to the bullet. Then move target out to 50 and so on. You should be on paper at 100 yards in less than 5 shots easily.

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Originally Posted by bajabill

then start at 25 yards - shoot 1. You should be able to find the bullet at that range, make some quick adjustments by holding the gun steady, look thru scope and move crosshair from the bull to the bullet. Then move target out to 50 and so on. You should be on paper at 100 yards in less than 5 shots easily.

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The laser bore sights I've used depend on the center of bore to center of scope distance to be fairly accurate along with the load. It's gotten to the point where I can do the traditional barrel bore-sight in about as many rounds as starting off with a laser--though the laser is useful to get me close in windage though I no longer pay attention to the elevation settings since they are generally way off.