Barrel ? for Whelen builders

I would like to rebarrel my LA 110e from .30-06 to .35 Whelen. Already received my Boyd's JRS laminated stock, near perfect drop-in, just needs tiny bit of inletting around rear of trigger guard. So far so good! As it is w/ the .30 Savage factory contour barrel, there is decent free-float gap all the way to the lug. I don't plan to bed initially, will see how it shoots first.

This is to be a hunting rifle, MOA is acceptable. My question is about the stock barrel channel---the Boyd's is STANDARD LA factory channel, but the 110 A&B barrel in 35Whelen is a factory MAGNUM contour---any suppositions on how much wood would need to be removed to permit the new barrel to free float? How big a WOOD project is this? (I know I'll need to headspace, etc.)
Does anyone know IF opening the channel is even necessary for this particular conversion?

I've read some tips on opening the channel(eg. sanding drum, sandpaper-on-a-dowel,etc) but would appreciate any actual experiences with this specific project. All insights appreciated.
Thanks, CF

I'm particular to using sandpaper on a dowel myself. The longer (8-12") dowel as opposed to a sanding drum helps me keep the resulting groove more consistent throughout it's entire length.
Hoot

Thanks Hoot! I'll try the dowel if needed. I guess I'll just have to order a .35 barrel and see how it fits. I do have a call into Jim at Northland Shooting for a barrel but don't yet know if he has a .35 CM.
Any other tips?

When you sand to open up the barrel channel, be sure to alternate which side of the stock faces you (i.e. if you have it in a vise on a bench do 20 strokes with the tip facing left then 20 with it facing right). Otherwise you will open it up on one side more than the other.

Eric in NC---Thank you sir for that advice!! I would not have realized that one until I had FUBAR'd it---excellent and appreciated! CF

You tend to pull the stroke toward your body - especially on the ends of the stroke. Easy to end up with an hour-glass shapped channel also if you don't watch out for this. Just think about it as you are doing it and try to keep the force centered and "down" on the channel (rather than pulling or pushing to one side).

Easy to do if you think about it and alternate sides, but easy to mess it up if you just jump in and start making sawdust!

My favorite way to do that is to take a piece of sandpaper preferably cloth backed put the action in the stock loosely put the sandpaper rough side to the stock and go back and forth slowly tightening the action screw until they are tight and the sandpaper moves easily you are done the last one i used a sanding disc 5" and it worked well

With the dowel and paper approach, I just stand on the end of the stock and either push or pull it towards me. It's easier for me to push/pull than slide left to right.
Hoot

the A&B .35 Whelen matches the mag sporter couture. should not need much removed if any.

I recently fitted an AB .35 Whelen barrel, and that sucker is fat. I had to remove quite a bit of wood, to the point where I didn't want to remove anymore because the sides were getting awefully thin.

Thanks gentlemen for the suggestions! I'm hoping not to have to do much sanding if at all, but the tips are appreciated!

Blue Avenger---is the outer dimension of the .35 mag sporter contour the same as the o.d. of the .30 factory sporter contour (and the only difference being the inner bore diameter)??

Outdoorfan---were you restocking w/ a Boyd's JRS classic, or some other stock?
BTW--I have sought some answers from both Boyd's, Midway and Battenfield Mfg/A&B, but can't seem to find anyone who's actually done this specific conversion, so all thoughts are appreciated.

Have a Happy, Safe and Prosperous New Year and God bless us all!

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Originally Posted by CheckFire

Blue Avenger---is the outer dimension of the .35 mag sporter contour the same as the o.d. of the .30 factory sporter contour (and the only difference being the inner bore diameter)??

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Not Blue but the A&B 35 Whelen is the "factory magnum" contour -heavier than the sporter but less than a varmint. Looks fine in a sporter stock (my opinion) but will require you to open it up.

Thank you Eric, Blue Avenger and all who responded. I think I've got my plan now--sounds like I won't have to remove too much wood but at least I'm better prepared to do so---and glad to know it will probably look satisfactory. I'm OK with less-than-perfect fit/finish in this rifle, I just want a .35 thumper...just because...

My stock is from the 114 'Classic' line with the ebony forend and includes the monte carlo w' raised cheekpiece.

Just recently finished converting my 06 110 action to 35 whelen. I used the b&c stock. Really pleased with the outcome. I took a piece of 1 in conduit appx 10 inches long and use 150 grit sandpaper and stroked it with slight pressure. I used the A&B barrel. Pillar bedded the stock and free floated the barrel. Used a small amount of JB weld around the recoil lug. Used the 40 thou piece of spinner bait wire to lighten the trigger. This was my first attempt. I am proud of the outcome. She will shoot moa, when I do my part.
This will not be my last one. Gonna do a 308 for the next one.
Good shooting to you.

Jim <>< <>< <><

I know with my 110 that I&#39;ll switch between heavy barrels and sporter weights.

As such, I bought a stock made up for the other wt. barrel ........ so I have a stock for each wt. barrel .........

You still end up fitting the barrel channel to achieve free float but don&#39;t end up with a gap you can throw an elephant through when you switch back to a sporter tube.

Three 44s