Printable View
I have a left-hand Model 110 I'm trying to identify.
I'm pretty sure it's a 1st Generation Short Action.
Is there any type of break-down by serial number that I can use to identify the year and/or series? Or, is there a way to make this identification from the rifle itself?
Thanks!
It would help a bit if you would give us just a clue as to calibre and barrel length and action length. Is it a wood stock or synthetic?
uj
Ok, sorry - I thought there might be a quick reference to serial numbers.Quote:
Originally Posted by jmwolfe1937
- .243 calibre
- Action Length = 3.27
- Distance from center to center of mounting screws = 4.52
- Barrel Length = 24"
- Wood Stock w/checkered pattern
Yes sir,
It sounds like a 1st gen. See if this link helps you any. http://www.savageshooters.com/conten...Action-Lengths
Cheers
Thanks! I've had it for at least 30 years, since it was given to me by a close family friend. I suspect it's at least 35 years old. It has a five digit serial number beginning with "5" and all numbers. The barrel has "Conlin" stamped on it with "243 underit. Is there any way to find out exactly how old it is and/or what series?
No "series" and it's pre-1968 as that's when they started using the letter prefix on the serial numbers. If it has a modern style bolt then it was made between 1964 and 1968. If it's the older style then it was made between 1958 and 1964.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...omparison1.jpg
Modern bolt on right
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...omparison2.jpg
Modern bolt on bottom
There should also be an inspection stamp somewhere on the barrel by the receiver that has a number and letter inside a circle. The letter indicates the year of production.
J = 1958
K = 1959
L = 1960
M = 1961
N = 1962
P = 1963
R = 1964
S = 1965
T = 1966
U = 1967
V = 1968
I suspect the barrel may be an aftermarket or has been rechambered at some point as the factory wouldn't have stamped Conlin on it. Stevens used to make a Conlin pistol back around the turn of the century but that was long before Savage bought them up. It's most likely a gunsmith's name who did some work to or replaced the barrel somewhere in it's life.
Thanks for the photos and info! I tried uploading photos but couldn't figure out how. Getting in narrowed down. It's definetly the older style bolt and as originally mentioned it's left-handed. I currently don't have any plans on getting rid of it but would like to know if it's worth having the stock refinished. Any ballpark idea what's it's worth?
Honestly, with the old style bolt it would be worth less to most guys around here as they would have to change it over to the newer style to swap barrels on it. Basically you're looking at around a $300 rifle give or take $50 depending on condition. They just aren't collectable or desirable. That's still almost triple it's original selling price though as that's how the 110 got it's name...they sold for $110 when they were introduced in 1958/59.
As for refinishing that old stock, it is a very easy do-it-yourslf project. I will send you a PM for instructions if you like. I have finished dozens of old stocks and flintlock rifle I have built for over 45 yrs. Sandpaper, 0000 steel wool, Paint remover, stain if it isnt walnut and elbow grease is all that is required. Oh, and an old toothbrush to get the old finish out of the checkering after the paint remover has done its deed.
El Lobo
I didn't think I had a "pot of gold" or anything but I guess it'd be nice to have in good condition.Quote:
Originally Posted by Admin
As far as changing the bolt style, is it a matter of replacing the bolt head or the entire bolt?
Thanks for everyone's quick respsonse!!!!
Have to replace the entire bolt, and you'd have to change the barrel to a newer style at the same time so it's not a cheap endeavor.
I am in the same boat. I have a first generation 110L that was rebarreled to .25-06 before I bought it. Since that is my favorite deer caliber, i will not mess with this gun. I did adjust the trigger and float the barrel. Otherwise she is stock. I have other Savage actions to play around with, but this one stays as she is.
How did you adjust the trigger? Do you have a link to some instructions? I have a 1959 LH 110 in .308, and the trigger pull is ridiculously heavy. I've had the action out of the stock and saw some screw that look like adjustment screws, but I didn't want to start messing with things without knowing what each screw was first.Quote:
Originally Posted by LHitchcox
Go to the home page of this website. There is an excellent article on adjusting the trigger complete with pictures.
El Lobo