More painting questions............................

I did a search on Duracoat Firearm paint products. From what I read, it doesn't appear to be difficult at all. Like any other GOOD paint job, the secret to a good job is in the prep work. Lousy prep - lousy paint job.

I see where a few different paint kits are available. What would be one of the best (generally speaking) kits to use for a simple camo job or even a solid job? ???

It looks like a kit can cost from $29 to $70, depending on how much of a kit you want. From reading some of the threads here, with photos, it looks like some of y'all make up your own camo patterns.

Somebody enlighten me. Aim me in a direction where I can learn more. I thirst for knowledge. I am a sponge ready to absorb the required information :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o Don't forget to include the parts about what to use for cleaning parts to be painted.

I have several stocks, most of which are colors I hate, I think i'd like to change their appearance. Needless to say, I'll start with the one or two I like the least or, those that are worth the least ::)

Thanks to whoever answer my plea for knowledge. ;)

Frank in Fla

Google . . . . gunstock painting camouflage . . . . . and several hits show up, even a few YouTube video's, should get you started!

Search funkshun was how I got this far :o
I was kinda looking for a little first hand info from one of our resident stock building / painting gurus. One of the more "seasoned paint guys" we have here at Addiction Central.

For the most part, it looks like something even I can do and I have kinda a heavy hand (cement & block laying will do that to ya).

I suppose I need to hear someone say " yeah, sure... a trained monkey can do it! - So easy a caveman can do it!... Even a blocklayer :o.."

Some of you guys turn out some incredible work when it comes to camo paint. I did look into that hydro camo stuff & decided I'm much too much of a cheap @55 to pay that much. Gorgeous stuff, but too much coin.

Bottom line - lately I don't have the time to go shooting 3 times a week like I used to. THe past couple weeks I've been involved in a sizeable project & we actually even made a few bucks! We even made the phone bill this month. I'd like to keep the trend going if I can but I really do want to try a little camo painting. I like the look & properly done it make a rifle look great.

Well for camo painting I'd recommend buying some cheap rattlecan paint and practice your pattern technique on some scrap lumber.
When I painted my stocks (before I fell in love with laminated birch) I cleaned them off with denatured alcohol before I painted them.

Hey CG... The last time I picked up a couple cans of "earthy" colors to try my hand at camo, I tried it on a piece of scrap plywood.

I can't tell you what my Florida born & raised redneck 'ol lady said it looked like. It would be censored & then there'd be nothing to read.

I'm just not real good at it :-[.... Maybe, like anything else in life, if I practice it a few million times I might get better at it.
But, I kinda really liked the Duracoat camo paint kits I saw. A little pricey but pretty cool looking. Now, it comes down to spend 70 bucks for a camo paint kit or send it out for a hundred bucks & get it hydro camo coated.
Decisions,.. decisions.... ???

Maybe I'll feel a little ambitious and have a go at it again but, this time with "feeling"..... especially after the way my wife embarassed me the first time :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o

"Talentless" Frank in Fla....

"Bulldog Arms.com" has a web site. They sell camo stencils that work extremely well and they have a site forum to help members do a good job. Take a look and see what you think. Being a cheap SOB, I reuse the stencil pieces by putting them on wax paper for storage. I can do two stocks before there too hard from dried paint.

Frank,

Some FFL friends of mine do Duracoat and Cerracoat. They're business is called GCS. They will do the whole gun or just particular parts and they're a Laurer certified shop.

Google GCS or Gulf Coast Shooting for their website.

If you decide to do it yourself, you will need a good airbrush, a small sprayer, some air filters, and the converter stuff to hook up a painter to your air compressor. You will need a media blaster if you want to do metal parts. They also have a dust collector on their paint booth but you could probably get away with not using one on your on stuff.

http://weww.snipershide.com/forum/ub...3198888&page=1

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BoilerUP

http://weww.snipershide.com/forum/ub...3198888&page=1

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I follow that system but, living in the south, I tape pine needles together in a flat strip and or bundles to get the same effect.

Here's a couple that I did a while back. A couple of Small Bore Silhouette rifles
Not camo
Not Savage

But pretty good paint. Candy Apple Red and Candy Apple Blue
Both rattle can jobs

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y82...r/DSC_0545.jpg

All excellent recomendations on how I can screw up a rifle stock.....

GaCOp reminded me of a guy I used to work with back in the 80's. He camo painted a computer case for a military application by gathering palm fronds, leaves & pine needles for stencils. He was from w.Va & very talented.

The candy apple stuff is real cool looking. Reminds me of some of the cars I built back in the late 60's.

I'm going to appropriate an additional stock & try some of these things. After all, how much can a guy screw up using pine & palm for a stencil? My only concern is the prep work. I noticed where I epoxied the reinforcement in the stock, where it wasn't prepped, it didn't stick very well. I have to assume the same goes for paint.

Thanks, y'all.
Frank in Fla

Here's my latest "camo" job.

http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/a.../Kimber841.jpg
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/a...mberMinox2.jpg
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/a.../Kimber848.jpg

Duracoat has camo kits in just about any pattern you can think of.

Base coat, lay on the vinyl pattern and spray second coat. Lay on more vinyl pattern, spray final or more coats. Finish with matte clear.

Did my BVSS in Electric Lavender:
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...ydgroup024.jpg

I do suggest you use an airbrush and NOT the air can kit. The canned kit sprays too heavy and spotty.

I use Duracoat. I love the flat tactical colors. Must have for good Duracoat is an airbrush. I do not pay for the stencil kits either. You can make any stencil you want with pine needles, as stated above, or blue painters tape. I just put the tape on a piece of glass, draw what I want on it, and cut it out with a razor knife. Almost always paint lighter color first in overlays or spray overs. I only prep by sanding roughly all metal, wood, plastic and spray it off with carb cleaner. Wipe with a clean no lint cloth air dry then paint.