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You guys can list the types of paint you are getting for spider web, or painting through lace on a pink stock for special effects ect. how to prep so the paint sticks to the plastic or wood.
when painting plastic I use a adhesion promoter first.
read the can. there are many different cure times between coats. have had to wait as much as 6 days between coats to avoid wrinkles and lifting.
Haven't had any issues with paint not sticking to either wood or plastic. I have noticed that when you use lace underware for a stencil, you need to either have multiple pairs or alow time to clean out the fabric due to plugging up.
I tried using a wood putty as kind of a glaze coat on my last stock that was mostly covered with bondo. The two "DO NOT" take paint the same. I could see easily where the wood putty was.
Toot
Toot, when you mix the two like that, and even if you don't, you should apply a thin coat of auto glazing compound over the surface, wet sand it with progressive grades, and let it dry for 24 hours. Then shoot a coat of grey enamel primer over it. When the primer has hardened, go over it with 000 steel wool, then a tack cloth, and you are ready to paint.Quote:
Originally Posted by tootalloutdoors
Check out the 6BR web site. They have a good article on stock painting; http://www.6mmbr.com/stockpainting.html
Got any tips on how to paint a 12 BVSS laminate stock? I want to go with a matte plack or a finish like Remington uses on their police models. Do I sand first or use a chemical finish remover, then prime, then paint? What brands work best? Thanks in advance for your time!
Tom
I would used the cheap truck bed liner that comes in a spray can, it gives you a flat black color and texture like the stocks you are talking about. This is a very durable finish also. Just make sure your stock is clean before you spray it.
What do you mean by "clean"? Are you saying it's not necessary to sand or remove the existing finish? Thanks for the bed liner paint tip! That sounds like it would give me the textured finish I want.
What I mean by clean is take steel wool or medium grit sand paper and rough the surface up. If you are spraying it over bondo let the bondo set up for a day or more. The surface does not have to be perfect, the bed liner spray will cover up alot of defects.
Hey, just stumbled onto your site tonight, and decided to join up.
Readin the threds on painting[I by the way am a Custom painter/Artist with over thirty five years experience], I linked over to Mike Ricklefs site, since we have run into each other at sign painter get togethers. Readin his article of stock painting, he hit it on the head. Very good information.
I custom painted my ole Marlin 882 22 Cal. couple months ago, and just now finishing custom painting my new Savage model 25 .204[will be finished in a day or two, after final clearing.
Anyone attempting to paint their own stock, read Mike's article, on what and what not to do. Probably save you some trouble.
Read somewhere someone suggesting mixing Testors glue and paint to marblize a job. I'm still chuckimng over that one.
I've been airbrushing 35 yrs. and trust me, that will quickly put your ole airbrush out of it's misery. Was a cute read anyway. "Moon" Mullins
Addition to above: Just finished custom painting my savage M25 .204 cal. stock, and my clearing guy, is clear coating [twice] and rubbing it out.
Will pick it up tomorrow[Sunday], and have her back together buy Monday or Tuesday.
Decided to post a pic. of it, before it was pinstripped and cleared.
[img width=600 height=334]http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b293/moonsign/a6.jpg[/img]
[img width=600 height=450]http://img232.imageshack.us/img232/5015/img1434ni3.jpg[/img]
[img width=600 height=450]http://img219.imageshack.us/img219/2005/img1435hw7.jpg[/img]
[img width=337 height=450]http://img232.imageshack.us/img232/2166/img1437ov1.jpg[/img]
I used Marine Tex for the textured parts and RustOleum Stops Rust textured paint. They have it in Olive Green and it is very lightly textured. It just has enough texture to be non-slip. After a few coats of the RustOleum I shot some flat clear enamel on it.
Model 110Fp Tactical in 7mm Remington Mag. The stock is a Stockade Gun Stocks "Woodchuck". It's sporting a new Nikon 6-18X40 Buckmaster with 1/8 moa click turrets.
http://home.comcast.net/~v2creative/camo.html
[img width=600 height=204]http://home.comcast.net/~v2creative/camo11.jpg[/img]
My first go
[img width=600 height=204]http://home.comcast.net/~v2creative/camo11.jpg[/img]
Process and range report at:
http://home.comcast.net/~v2creative/camo.html
JR
Hi I have used duracoat firearms finishes on 1 of my rifles and It works and looks great lauer custom weaponry sells kits so you can camo your gun and do it your self or you can send it to them .You should check out their web site at www.lauerweaponry.com I would do it your self It is not that hard to do and you can get every thing from 1 PLACE and you can get many camo patterns
Found a laminated thumbhole stock for my 22-250, but don't like the color.
Would think I would have any problems with painting it?
I used the Krylon Camoflage Fusion ultra flat automotive stuff, got all four colors from the hardware store.
simply took a clean rag with mineral spirits to the new Choate tactical stock and sanded only seam ridges.
Made up stencil shapes with blue masking tape...Have not added the black yet, still stewing on it.
[img width=600 height=450]http://i1189.photobucket.com/albums/z421/ironheadmike/2-6-11009.jpg[/img]
Ok, I added some black...now, whether or not to use the matte clear I spied at the hdwr store?[img width=600 height=450]http://i1189.photobucket.com/albums/z421/ironheadmike/2-7-11015.jpg[/img]
Wow. That looks some kind of good ironheadmike81. Actually all the stocks in this section are well done.
Why, Thank you Thor...hoping now somebody out there has experience with
the matte clear coat Krylon markets in my same hardware store, I swear I saw
a post somewhere on this site along those lines...
New to this forum but I did just paint two rifles and finsihed them with the matte clear. Both done with stencils one digital, and the other a snake skin pattern (black, grey, purple iridescent for my daughter). The matte goes on very easy but does take longer to dry. The camo ultra flat dries amazingly fast for rattle can paint. The matte just knocks the shine off all the color will still come through.
If I can get pics that arent 4Mb I will try and put a couple up.
has anybody tried painting 1 of the rubber overmolded stocks, if so how did it work for you?
j
Here is my first attempt using Rustoleum Camo paint.
http://i916.photobucket.com/albums/a...vage7-0806.jpg
http://i916.photobucket.com/albums/a...vage7-0804.jpg
dupli.color metalcast anodized surface color system ...
comes in blue, red, green, orange
light brown lamanant. with just the red tint and then clear coat
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...5414453924.jpghttp://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...e/100_5341.jpg
silver base with red , topped with orange.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...e/100_4141.jpghttp://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...e/100_4142.jpghttp://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...e/100_4145.jpg
VERY nice camo job Torchrider!!!!!!!!!!!!!