I'd like some comments on "Pillar" Bedding vs "Full Glass Bedding" ????

Which is better, full "Glass" bedding or "Pillar" Bedding, or do you install both systems..... I have a nice wallnut stock that I'd like to "Keep" but I'd like to try and "bed" the stock.... Actually the rifle, a 270win, is shooting pretty good. The last group I fired was .48" for 3 shots.... But I'm going to have back surgery in a week and I need something to do while getting better..... lol... I would really like a good discusion....

Thanks, Desert

You can't go wrong with pillars AND glass bedding.

I have done Pillars and I have done Full Action bedding, both with fully floated barrels. And to tell you the truth mine all shoot about the same. I dont have any bench rest quality rifles all of mine are hunters. Thats most likely why I'm not seeing much difference. May have to have a rifle shooting in the .2's to really judge if the pillar really helped.

There may be another exception to that. Very extreme humidity or moisture where the stock tends to move or swell. The pillar there would be an asset.

But your gun shooting under a 1/2 MOA dont sound like its broke. And my dad always told me "dont fix it if it aint broke".

A. Follow the tutorial on bedding on this site.

B. With Savages, I do pillar bedding and all at the same time, so it all fits together.

Basically prep stock and barreled action for release. Attach pillars with bolts and make sure bolts have release on them, but pillars should be roghed up and cleaned so devcon sticks to them good. Apply devcon to stock and pillars. Insert and clean off excess as you squeeze action into final position. I tape mine together at this point. After 4 hours I take it all apart to make sure I have no locks built in that will prevent it from comiing apart forever. After clean-up, I reassemble and tape together for 24 hours to make sure its fits perfectly. Note: After initial assembly, bolts will have to be removed to disassemble. Again, watch tutorial, its perfect.

Larry
Tinkerer

If all you do is the pillars then you can't be sure that the recoil lug is taking all the force from shooting as it is supposed to do.
If all you do is bed the action then you can't be sure the stock isn't being compressed when you assemble the rifle.
If you do both then you have less to worry about concerning the fit of the action to the stock.

When I bed a rifle I do at least pillars and recoil lug. Usually I go ahead and do the entire action if I've gone to the trouble of prepping for a bedding job.

I think your best bet would be to go ahead and do both since you have the time on your hands. If you follow the tutorial and do it right, I don't think it could do anything but help....however, yours is doing pretty good as it is.

I've ordered the pillars and bedding kit... I've got time on my hands, I'm having back surgery for the 3rd time on the 8th and am going to need something to do for a few weeks... Thanks, I just hope the rifle shoots as well after I do this..... I've taken more than 30 head of Muley bucks and 3 elk with the 270..... I don't want to mess it up....

If it somehow were to make it less accurate, you could pick up a replacement stock for it and be back at square 1. Let us know how it turns out!

I will, I try and shoot every Saturday, but I'm going to be out of action for a month or so.... That should give me the time to finish bedding the rifle....

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Originally Posted by cgeorgemo

If all you do is the pillars then you can't be sure that the recoil lug is taking all the force from shooting as it is supposed to do.
If all you do is bed the action then you can't be sure the stock isn't being compressed when you assemble the rifle.
If you do both then you have less to worry about concerning the fit of the action to the stock.

When I bed a rifle I do at least pillars and recoil lug. Usually I go ahead and do the entire action if I've gone to the trouble of prepping for a bedding job.

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As above, you need to do both if your stock doesn't already have metal pillars in it.

As a package, how does the "[color=blue][font=Verdana]Micrometer Style Bedding Pillars, Deluxe Bedding Kit"[color=blue][font=Verdana] from Score High Gunsmithing stack up? The cd appears to be complete, even down to a very slick CD presentation..... The only thing I don't see is a release agent, I understand shoe polish or paste wax can be used, libereally, then buffed...???

Most products call for coating the part with "release agent". I always used this product and applied it with a Q Tip. Pretty much slathered it on as I was paranoid about getting the stock "glued" to the action. Now I notice that "the big boys do exactly that...glue the action into the stock after glass bedding. Go figure. But that ain't for the likes of you and me. If you get an action epoxied into a stock you can get it out by carefully heating the action to 250 or 300 degrees to "burn" the epoxy but not de-temper the action and lift it free. Check the brand of epoxy you used to see what it's max working temp might be then exceed that. Better than hacking the stock off then chiseling the epoxy from the receiver......ughhhh!

The thickness of the release agent negates the bedding. A couple thousandths is "slop" and that ruins everything...probably. The best method will be to get a uniform coating of releasing agent of the thinnest possible..... Use Neutral Kiwi Shoe Polish(As if Ox Blood wouldn't work LOL). Let it set a few min after RUBBING it into all the parts and using a Q Tip to for the stuff into corners and cracks. Buff the heck out of it using a durable paper shop towel or cotton rag. Paper is better as it's firmness will flatten the wax coating instead of scrubbing it out of cracks and crevices and the joining of metal parts.

Your recoil block should be free of epoxy contact in all surfaces "except" the rear facing one.

Nor Cal Mikie has described his method as being done in two steps. First he installs the pillars as per normal. The action is spaced from the wood by wrapping it with a few turns of electrical tape to cause the action to stand "proud" of the wood. That will establish a clearance between the wood and action and after the pillars are set you remove the tape and epoxy the action allowing the pillars to set you uniform clearance. Most do both bedding operations simultaneously and in one step but I use Mikei's method and I find it easier and more accurate. Why would I want to save time on a labor of love?

Good luck and have fun,(thanks, Mike)

John

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Deserthunter

As a package, how does the "[color=blue][font=Verdana]Micrometer Style Bedding Pillars, Deluxe Bedding Kit"[color=blue][font=Verdana] from Score High Gunsmithing stack up? The cd appears to be complete, even down to a very slick CD presentation..... The only thing I don't see is a release agent, I understand shoe polish or paste wax can be used, libereally, then buffed...???

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If you're getting a Deluxe Bedding Kit, it should come with a small jar of release agent (at least it used to).
It is really, really good stuff, and yes, buff it with a paper shop towel. Good luck with both your
recovery and your project.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DannoBoone

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Deserthunter

As a package, how does the "[color=blue][font=Verdana]Micrometer Style Bedding Pillars, Deluxe Bedding Kit"[color=blue][font=Verdana] from Score High Gunsmithing stack up? The cd appears to be complete, even down to a very slick CD presentation..... The only thing I don't see is a release agent, I understand shoe polish or paste wax can be used, libereally, then buffed...???

---

If you're getting a Deluxe Bedding Kit, it should come with a small jar of release agent (at least it used to).
It is really, really good stuff, and yes, buff it with a paper shop towel. Good luck with both your
recovery and your project.

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Dan,

My kits never came with instructions to buff the release agent down with a paper towel. They seemed to want me to get a "thick coat" on their to prevent the possibility of adhesion. I learned this KIWI stuff in full length videos I purchased on line. They will only use Devcon epoxy to bed anything. They are really anal about both points. I agree with you that if the release agent can be buffed there will be no difference between the outcome using that process and Kiwi shoe polish.

Good luck Amigo,

John

"The only thing I don't see is a release agent, I understand shoe polish or paste wax can be used, libereally, then buffed..."

I looked in the little box again and found the release agent.... I was blind.....

I think that I'am ready, willing and able to do both types of bedding.... I'll let you know how things are coming and how it works out....

Thanks....

As far as release agent is concerned, I've always used TurtleWax paste wax and put nice thin coat over the action and on the screws.

I have another observation, are there horror stories regarding the "Bedding", either the pillar or glass.... I see the chance of someone bitting off more than they can chew.... Removing wood, drilling holes, cleaning up bedding compound...... etc..... just wondering.....

Watch the tutorial.

I woried about me doing it the first time. The only thing I ALMOST screwed up was almost bondiing the action to the stock forever. So I broke the action out at 4 hours out of 24. This gave me a chance to make sure the devcon did not bond to the action by lock-in.

Otherwise, it went just as the tutorial said.

Larry
Tinkerer

I've never had an action that stuck tight forever. I did have one action that I had to put in the freezer for an evening once. When I took it out the action popped right out with little whack from a wooden mallet.
This was when I used a different release agent than Turtle Wax. It was using some clear shoe polish and it didn't work as well for me.

I have found instances where a part of the receiver was wider at the bottom that at the upper portion of the part/section. This is sure death! even with a release agent the receiver will be locked in. I filed the surfaces that would lock up so the bottom was thinner that the uppermost portion. These were old Mauser actions.

All receivers will be hopelessly "stuck" if your bedding compound sits above the widest point in the receiver/barrel.

Good luck,

John