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Tonight I was prepping a vlp stock to bed action and noticed pillars rotate with very little pressure applied. Bumped one with a chisel and it rotated. Is this normal for them to move like that? Do I need to glue them in place before bedding action? Anyone else noticed this?
The factory pillars are pressed in. I have had the same thing. I also had one that was pressed in too tight and it wasnt all the way in, and when they tightened down the action it forced it the rest of the way and split the laminate so i had to get it repaired.
I would either replace them with aluminum pillars or atleast relieve some wood around them a little so that bedding compound will get down beside it to hold it tight.
Quote:
Originally Posted by pdog06
yep
If it was me and the pillars moved in the stock, I would drive them out of the stock, (If they would move enough) relieve that area so I could get the bedding around them or at least get some glue down between the stock and pillar,reset them about 1/16" above the stock/action area and bed the action. That way the action in resting on the pillars when bedded.
Devcon 10110 finally came into today. I think I"ll enlarge the pillar holes and epoxy them in place before bedding the action. This is my first attempt at bedding a rifle. Wish me luck. Ron
I do mine in two steps. Secure the pillars to the action, (lots of release agent) tape and shim the barrel and tang to the height you want it in the stock and secure the pillars in the stock.
After they've set up "real good", go back and bed the action in the stock. Again, lots of release agent. ;)
What NCM said +++
A word of caution: The release agents I have used have "body" to them. It's a thick coating when dried. That coating becomes a "spacer" after it is removed. I have two different kinds of the stuff and each is unsuitable for what we are doing. Of course, I have done three exactly as NCM advised and all are working well. As good as the could? Dunno.
I purchased a 2 hour vid from Richard's Custom Guns that covers a bedding operation from start to finish. In the vid he mentions the unsuitability of 'Release agent" as a product. He accomplishes this by using NEUTRAL KIWI SHOE POLISH. He slathers it on and works it into cracks and corners with a small brush. After it dries he rubs it of vigorously with a paper towel. I guess you would have more faith if you had watched him do it with your own eyes.
NCM's procedure of first bedding the pillars and afterwards bedding the action on the "proud" pillars is superior to the Richards vid where they are both done simultaneously. Thanks Mikie!
Experience is the best teacher. We learn from our mistakes or at least we should.
Speaking from experience, it's much easier to adjust the barrel and action in the stock when you do the bedding in two stages. Easier than trying to correct a misfit full bedding job. :-[
Make sure you get the barrel centered in the forearm and clearence under the tang. You only need daylight there. I shim the barrel with tape or paper strips to get the clearence in the forearm I'am looking for. Set it up and forget about it for a while. No use getting in a hurry. Once it's setting in the stock the way you want it and the pillars are secure, then you can go back later and do the action bedding.
And the Kiwi Neutral works super. Put it on, let it dry, buff it real good and add more. You can't use too much. Be sure to buff between coats.
I use masking tape along the top and sides around the action area of the stock. Goop the action area and press the action in place. Secure the action with whatever you choose. Wipe off the excess bedding. I use masking tape to hold it in place. Set it aside and again "forget about it" till the bedding sets up real good. ;) And don't forget the release agent on the action screws.
I've done at least 6 stocks that way and they all came out real good.
To me the best bedding job is pillars and action at one time. Very importantly you are trying to avoid any stress to the gun, this would best be acomplished bedding all at one time.
You still want to use masking tape around the barrel and some under the tang to set your height, you would probably want to remove some wood under the tang so the back end does not sit up to high.
you want to have at least an 1/8" per side clearence around the pillars for adequate Devcon. Only use Kiwi neutral shoe polish and don't put any on the pillars. I even scuff up the surface of the pillars with the edge of a file for best bonding. I even bed the trigger guard ( blind feed no bottom metal) at the same time for best results.
Make sure you dri fit and look things over real well before the Devcon.
Charlie
I bedded the pillars last night. Tonight I dried fitted the barreled action to sit on the pillars. I wrapped masking tape around the barrel at the front to hold elevation and center in stock. I masked the stock and put clay where needed. I put 2 layers masking tape on front and sides of recoil lug. I waxed the action and barrel with neutal kiwi and buffed, filled voids and holes with clay and waxed and buffed again. Dry fitted one more time. Mixed 1/3 lb of Devcon 10110, put it on what seem to be very thick. Sat barreled action down into stock. (I bought some extra action screws a Westlakes and cut the head off, put three wraps of masking tape around them.) Devco oozed out every where I was expecting. Wrapped black tape securely around tang and stock. Ate supper and relaxed for 1 hour or so, went back down and cleaned up what had oozed out along action and in mag well. I used a plastic putty knive, q-tips, rags and wd-40. Now we wait.
How long should it cure before removing (I hope) from stock? Ron
24 hours.
Couldn't wait any longer. Removed the action screws. On one screw, the tape stayed in the pillar. Removed tape from around the tang. Slapped the stock flat handed and heard a snap. With alot of wiggling and a couple more slaps the action and barrel lifted free. WHEW! :o ;D I will post a pic below if I remember how.
[img width=576 height=768]http://i829.photobucket.com/albums/zz217/ronrector1414/bedding6cm002.jpg[/img]
These pics are just as they came apart. I am very pleased with the end result. Need to make a trip to town and pick up a dremel to dress up a few spots. I used kiwi as a release agent and moldeling clay and had no devcon stuck to the action or barrel. I'll post more pics as build progresses.
[img width=576 height=768]http://i829.photobucket.com/albums/zz217/ronrector1414/bedding6cm003.jpg[/img]
Ron
Looks good Ron! I don't see any noticeable voids. I see you went nutless on your build.
Kevin
Thanks Aircraft. I have cleaned the tape and clay from stock and I do not find any voids anywhere. Didn't get to town this afternoon to pickup a dremel , hopefully tomorrow.
Yea, I went nutless. I wanted a 6CM to try at long range shooting. Bought a Kreiger barrel from Brunos in Az. and sent it to Dave Bruno (no relation) in Pa to get chambered. He is the smith that chambers barrels for the guy who designed this round. Any way I sent him my action and had him screw it together and install a SSS trigger. He also trued, lightend up the lift, and jewelled the bolt.
Ron
A couple of things. Use your dremel to remove the excess, my first bedding job I used a chisel to get rid of excess around the edge of the mag well and I knocked off some chunks where I did not want to. Also make sure you put a small radius on all the edge openings of where the recoil lug opening is, you don't want to knock off a piece of Devcon while you are putting the gun back in the stock.
If you did not put layers of tape on the bottom of the lug you should have. If you didn't you need to file off a little bit of the bottom of the recoil lug so that it never touches the Devcon. It is very important that the recoil lug has some bottom clearence.
Charlie
Thanks Donald. The Manners is still on order :-\. Gonna mount my NF this week. Still no dtacs, they say shipping this week. Would sierra 100 grains work to ff?Quote:
Originally Posted by DGD6MM
Harrier, Thanks for the good advice. Did file the bottom of the lug, but never thought about the radius of the opening.
Ron.