Got my Millet LRS-1 today

I am no scope expert by any means so I apologize in advance for my lack of knowledge on the subject matter. First look is dang it looks like a four cell maglite almost emberassed to take it to the range damn thing is huge. There is a tiny black flake at the 5:00 position kinda annoying but ill live with it. The fast focus adjustment on the back has me stumped,,,,if i adjust it to my vision it moves up and down really easy and the reticle moves with it? Am I doing something wrong. It looks really clear to me but this is the nicest scope ive ever owned so probably not saying much and at 16x or higher magnification you reeeeeally gotta have your eye perfect or the picture gets milky on the edges.....again maybe im wrong here or got a dud if anyone has any advice on this thing other than selling it or running it over im all ears....thank you in advance for any advice..

Sounds to me like you got a bad scope. I have an LRS-1 and the paralax/focus adjustment is FIRM and the reticle does NOT move. Something is loose inside the scope. Send it back and get another one. My firest LRS-1 had a problem with a broken/non-functioning windage adjustment.

The LRS-1 is NO Night Force scope BUT for the money spent it IS a VERY GOOD to EXCELLENT scope in my opinion.

If you decide to exchange the LRS-1 for another, I strongly recommend that you get the low mounts for it. The HIGH mounts that come with the LRS-1 scope are STUPID hight and even after I replaced them with the Millet Low 35mm rings, I can still stand to lower my scope another 3/16 of an inch.

Here is my scope mounted with the high 35mm rings. The low rings I replaced them with cut about half the height but could still be lower.

http://forum.tractorfarmandfamily.co...ad.php?t=14228

When you send the scope in, mention in the letter you enclose that you want a set of LOW rings to recompensate you for the shipping, troubles etc...

It worked for me!! Of course by the time I got it back, I had already bought a set of Valdada QD low mounts.

Sean

The side focus parralax knob works perfect its the one one the rear of the scope the fine adjustment one closest to my eye if I screw it out at all and then kinda force it up and down I can see the retical moving maybe I'm doing something wrong. I just screwed it all the way in tight and it works fine right now and the glass does seem really clear I love the scope

Try this (this was how I was told to adjust the parallax):
1. With the magnification set in the middle, find something that is horizontal line, i.e. a roof line, window sill, the top of a target stand.
2. Using the fine adjustment, on the back of the scope, bring that horizontal line into sharp focus.
3. Once the line is sharp and you have a good cheek weld on the stock, rock you head up and down (using your cheek weld as a pivot point). You’ll see the horizontal reticle line move against the horizontal focus line point.
4. Move the parallax knob on the left side (the one the manual calls a focus knob) until the horizontal focus and reticle lines stop moving against each other.
5. You may have to go back through steps 2 -4 to fine tune the image in focus. Additionally at longer ranges and higher magnifications you may have to fine tune again because of the focal plane of the optic set.

This has worked for me on all of my scopes that have a parallax adjustment, including the LRS-1 scope I currently have on my Savage. If this doesn’t work it’s time to return it.

Live Oak and seanhagerty nailed it, you need lower rings. With the high ones that came with it my cheek weld was a chin weld.

Wow, what a piece of luck, all you LRS people here at the same time. I'm putting together a model 10 FCP-K with an LRS and cannot find a spec I need to determine the ideal rings. The spec is for the 'mount length' (The maximum distance the rings can be spread on the 35mm tube diameter). Once I know the spread I can determine the proper rail and measure it's height.... presto the proper ring height. I (unlike Millett) believe the scope should be as close to the barrel as possible, not waving in the wind. It's just proper physics. So if one of you gents could put a rule over your LRS and let me know, I'd be much obliged. BTW if you've solved this little issue, I'd like like to hear your solution and perhaps the type of rings and rail that look like they belong together.

I just measured. From the beginning of the objective taper to the magnification ring is 7 3/4". I'm with you the closer the better, took high and it'll screw up convergence.

I have mine mounted low enough I can just get my butler creek cover on the objective end, between the scope and the barrel.

I used an EGW one piece 20 moa base and valdada low QD 35mm rings.

I have a varmit weight barrel, I think if I went heavier I might need to remove the obj lens cover.

CW Thanks for the ruling.
Chesty (get another name, please) I’ve been using a Millett TRS on my 93R17 for some time so I’ve been through the parallax thing as well. Focus or focus ? whats the deal? Well I finally just gave up on the eyepiece focus ring as it doesn’t seem to do anything and I’m just using the side focus. Yes, there was some concern about parallax but I got around it by either 1. Cut an aperture in some thin paper and inserted it into the lense cap forcing my eye to only look straight down the center of the scope. OR TWO move your head back on the stock and force the scope image to compress into a circle indicating scope center.
Hope that helps
Sean Thanks for sharing your setup. I presume you mean the .25 height rings. I’ll take a close look. But you raise another question. With the huge adjustments (140moa) on the LRS, why the 20moa rail? You shooting a 50 into the next county?

why the 20 moa rail?? Because I can.

I had the rail before I got the scope and just threw it on there when I installed the LRS. I dont really know how far I can get out there with it. Shooting a 260 rem. Maybe I'll do the calculations on this..... 140/2= 70 moa (minus what ever drop at 100 yd zero). Add the 20 MOA base to it and I should have around 90 MOA.

Edit: Just did them, assuming load data of 142 smk at 2800 fps, I should be able to get close to 1600 yds with it (I need about 85 MOA for the mile target.)

Not that I have a place to shoot it, or could hit anything that far. Maybe I'll try some time.

To focus the reticle, not the image, do the following. It is very easy to do.

Aim the scope at the sky.

Screw the eye piece all the way in.

Now focus your eye on a fixed object NOT in the scope.

Now look in the scope real quick. Then look away. The cross hairs are going to be in focus or not.

The trick is to not let your eyes try to re-focus on the image inthe scope.

Adjust the eye piece a little an do the above again to see if it is in focus the instant you look into the eye piece.

Keep doing this until it goes into focus. If it goes into focus the back out, turn it back a little until it comes back into focus.

The whole trick is to get the image of the reticle to be in focus right when you look into the scope.

Now you can move onto the side focus.