Action resting on recoil lug.

After reading this post http://savageshooters.com/SavageForu...c,45001.0.html, I was curious.

I pulled my 10FCM action out of the accustock and checked. While I don't have the problem described in that post, I have determined that the front of the action, even when torqued down, is not touching the accustock aluminum bedding material at the front lug. Instead, the bottom of the recoil lug is bottoming out on the aluminum accustock frame first.

I don't know if this is affecting accuracy as I only shoot this rifle with open sights, but the barrel is not parallel with the center line of the stock and I think this may be the reason why.

I came up with the following three possible solutions. Which of them do you think would be better? (Or is there something else I haven't thought of that I could/should do?)

a) file down the bottom of the recoil lug so it doesn't bottom out.
b) put a shim between the accustock metal and the action at the front action screw.
c)make the cut for the recoil lug deeper so the lug doesn't bottom out.

Thanks

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Originally Posted by thomae

While I don't have the problem described in that post, I have determined that the front of the action, even when torqued down, is not touching the accustock aluminum bedding material at the front lug. Instead, the bottom of the recoil lug is bottoming out on the aluminum accustock frame first.

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This is a common problem with the accustock. When you draw down the action in the accu-stock the aluminum u channel spreads apart, and the action drops lower in the stock, when the recoil lug bottoms out the the action is not sitting on its bedding surface it creates stress. (This is 1 of the main reasons I dont like the accu-stock, beside the other problems with it.)

The most important thing is that the action sits properly in the bedding surface, if the recoil lug is preventing this than something needs done. Out of the choices you have listed only one is appropriate fix. and that is C. You could file down the lug, but it would be hard to keep things straight, and the lugs are hard, and it would take some work to cut it down. You should never put a shim under the action, the action needs a good bedding surface to ensure the best accuracy. Savage's, for the most part, are very forgiving on bedding. C would alow the action to sit in the bedding surface, without any stress. The best way to tell is to place modeling clay under the lug, and mark the action with black shoe polish, to make sure that the action is sitting stress free in the bedding surface.

Is the lug a factory one or aftermarket. I know the accustock lugs are a bit diff than the reg aftermarket ones. SSS makes aftermarket ones compatable with the accustock rail but i have to ask for them. They dont advertise them.

Brian

I've never seen an Accustock but what about bedding it with the action scews just snug?

early style

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...1264980921.jpghttp://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...1264770676.jpghttp://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...1264901481.jpg

Savage the money and dump the junky accu stock and buy the OEM Laminate, a McMillin or a Manners...

Remember you do have to a FULL bedding, but do it right and you will set...

Thanks to all who replied for the good information.
To address several points:
- It's a factory accustock lug, no modifications.
- What I have is a "second generation" Accustock without the wedge.
- If I get a different stock, I will likely bed it, but for now, I think I'll work with the current stock.
- Bedding with the action resting on the end of the recoil lug instead of the forward action screw, not only induces stresses, but also increases the bolt-to-(center feed, detachable)magazine distance, so I'd rather have the action sitting directly on the bedding block.
- Would the use of a shim washer around the forward action screw to "lift" the lug off the bedding block really induce stresses on the action? I am trying to understand how this would not be functionally equivalent to pillar bedding. (Regardless, I agree that it is also not an ideal solution if for no other reason than the bolt-to-magazine distance issue.)

Again, I really appreciate your thoughtful replies.

how have you determined that the lug is bottomed out?

On another note, don't waste your time with the crap with built in aluminum bedding blocks...

When its molded if that block is not EXACTLY dead center in the mold, you will have to keep grinding out more then you should to give your barrel the appearance of being in the center when you float it. Remember when you buy a $200-300 stock, excluding laminate that is exactly what you get... Since Laminates are filled with layers and layers of glue and wood.

Also if you plan on bedding it in one of these stocks you hear so much bout here just remember you need to GRIND out all of the crap foam above the block to get a REAL bed, had a jack ass do a skim coat and thats exactly what it was a skim coat crap. Had to redo it ALL cause it never was solid and same with the pillars...

JMO go with a Laminate or a Manners and never look back...

Do a complete bedding job with JB weld and don't look back.

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Originally Posted by DarnYankee

how have you determined that the lug is bottomed out?

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I believe I have witness marks to indicate the lug is bottoming out, but I guess I really need to make sure before proceeding.

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Originally Posted by thomae

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DarnYankee

how have you determined that the lug is bottomed out?

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I believe I have witness marks to indicate the lug is bottoming out, but I guess I really need to make sure before proceeding.

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Wouldn't it also be teetering at the point of the lug while resting unattached?

Both the lug and the recess have flat bottoms, hence no teeter, unless I misunderstand what you meant.

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Wouldn't it also be teetering at the point of the lug while resting unattached?
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