The gun I bought the other day for my build has what I think is the older 2 screw trigger. Can these be adjusted safely? I dont have a pull gauge but its gotta be around 10lbs right now
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The gun I bought the other day for my build has what I think is the older 2 screw trigger. Can these be adjusted safely? I dont have a pull gauge but its gotta be around 10lbs right now
It was the older triggers that were 3 screw. Adjusting 3 and 2 screw triggers info is in the FAQ section. They are adjustable down to a reasonable hunting trigger wgt. Is what you bought a Stevens or a Savage? Changing the straight spring wire to a smaller dia wire dia. will help also. Dont go too small in dia. and use only spring wire. There is a fellow on this forum that will send you a spring wire if you send him a stamped, addressed envelope. Forget his name but someone will chime in with it.
El Lobo
It's 243shooter. There is a sticky in the Non-Savage Firearms & Parts section of the classifieds.Quote:
Originally Posted by ellobo
I found the section about adjusting the 3 screw trigger in the FAQ but nothing about adjusting the 2 screw. Do they adjust the same? The gun I bought is a Savage 10fxp in 7saum. Blind mad, stagger feed. I am building a light 270wsm for deer hunting.Quote:
Originally Posted by ellobo
Everything is the same except the 2-screw trigger does not have a sear adjustment screw. Replace the external wire and adjust it lighter. Then reduce the overtravel. If it is gritty, you may polish or stone the sear notch lightly.
BTW, the wire on a buzz bait fishing lure is the same diameter as 243shooter is giving away. I bought a $1.00 WalMart lure and cut it. If you watch what you are doing, you can get two wires from one lure.
+1 on the wal mart spinnerbait wire. I have re-springed 2 stevens this way.
and its not hard to drill and tap a trigger for a sear adjustment screw
keeki, I'm about to attempt drilling and tapping for a sear adjustment screw, what size drill bit and tap would work best.
#29 bit and 8-32 screw is what I used
Thanks keeki.
What exactly is ment by "stoneing"?
stoning is using a set of stone files to polish or smooth the surface so that its slick like glass. Be advised to be careful when doing this and dont change the angles of the sear.
Do not stone a Savage trigger. It is made from scintered (pressed together powder) metal. Just like an M&M, hard on the outside and soft on the inside. If you stone the hard material away, the sear will quickly wear into the soft material. You'll loose your good trigger pull and likely ruin your trigger.Quote:
Originally Posted by 03mossy
For the sake of discussion, how does the sintering process alone create a case hardness. Sintering or the practice of molding powdered metal at or near its melting point, maintains metal purity and grain structure and offers the ability of at or near finished dimensions as cast. The process as I understand it only describes the shaping process and not necessarily the treating or hardening process. I am no metalurgist, just curious as to how the two, molding and hardness, correlate.
Thanks
Fish
The trigger is case hardened on the outside, and if the stoning goes through the thin case hardening soft metal is exposed. When I suggested stoning, I meant to lightly stone the burrs off. I should have been more careful in my wording.
I just am curious as to what is acceptable. Geargrinder has demonstrated that he has knowledge of the thing with the nut and has peaked my curiosity. I work triggers with a very fine diamond hone. I always thought that the hardening process penetrated at least .005 and possibly three times as much. I have triggers that no matter how tight I tighten the spring It never gets abouve 4 lbs pull. Probably due to the 2-4 rms finish. I have never noticed the surface getting soft on me. I spend a lot of time on the trigger sear(the stamped sheet metal part) making it parralel to the trigger notch.
I'm not an expert, but I do have some education and training in metallury and material science.
Scintering is like a big bag of ice. If you keep the bag very cold the ice cubes are all separate. If move the bag to a warm place for a short time the outer cubes will start to melt and fuse together. If re-frozen, You'll have solid ice on the outside, then fused cubes, and separate cubes in the middle.
That's kind of how our triggers are made. They inject the powder in a mold, then they heat the mold until the powder fuses together.
That's why if you stone through the "ice" the sear will be engaging on the "fused cubes".
Stoning off the burrs and squaring up the sear sound like good practice to me.