Reccommended accuracy improvements for new savage rifle?

I'm in planning stage for a new long range precision rifle. Although I've hunted quite extensively, it was the old school type of guts and gas. 4x scope was the norm, and if it's too far, you stalk closer. This new rifle will be my learning tool for long range precision shooting. I've turned on to Savage for it's reputation for being extremely accurate right out of the box, yet further search found that a stock savage can be improved some. Pls keep in mind that I'm all thumbs, and rarely have two fingers which I use to type keyboard, and trip the trigger. So here I'm begging for reccommendations on what should be done. I've listed below what I think I know. You're welcome to contradict me.
I learned from post by 358Hammer that time and truing action is not necessary for savage. So,
1: Skim bed the action
2: Install heavy duty recoil lug
3: Nitride action, bolt and barrel
4: Adjust Accutrigger
5: Install scope base and rings with supplied scope
If you have suggestions whether to do or not to do, pls chime in. BTW I'm looking at either the Model: 12 Long Range Precision or the Model: 12 VLP DBM

With the two models you listed, hold off on the entire list and shoot the rifle for a while. You may be pleasantly surprised!!!!!

What caliber/chamber are you looking at?

Installing the base and rings is a no brainer, just make sure that its a good fit. You might read up on how to bed a scope base, very simple process.
Out of the rest of your list adjusting the trigger (simple) and bedding is the only ones I would pursue at this point.
Trigger time and a caliber that will let you shoot comfortably for long sessions will be the best way to get good with your new gun.

What caliber are you planning on getting?

Good load development is probably the best way to increase the accuracy out of any rifle. If you are just buying factory ammunition, you will never maximize the accuracy out of the rifle. Next will be to get a good trigger. I like the SSS Competition Trigger. You will also need a good quality scope. My recommendation would be vortex. Don't go cheap on the scope, you're wallet will thank you later. (Its cheaper just to purchase the expensive scope once, than buy the cheap scope, figure out its crap, then purchase an expensive scope later.)

As far as a T&T job, I personally think it is worth it if you have done everything else that I listed above and just want the last bit of accuracy squeezed out of your rifle. My .02

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Hatari

I learned from post by 358Hammer that time and truing action is not necessary for savage. So,
1: Skim bed the action
2: Install heavy duty recoil lug
3: Nitride action, bolt and barrel
4: Adjust Accutrigger
5: Install scope base and rings with supplied scope
If you have suggestions whether to do or not to do, pls chime in. BTW I'm looking at either the Model: 12 Long Range Precision or the Model: 12 VLP DBM

---

I would totally disagree that any of the things listed are necessary for good accuracy, or would significantly or even remotely improve accuracy. I would also argue that a T&T job would show more notable affects than anything listed, as it would improve, and uniform ignition. Bedding an action is a good thing, but honestly Savage are VERY tolerant on bedding, and though it is a cheap thing to do, and I would highly suggest that it be done, you may or not see a difference in accuracy. Installing a heavy duty lug is also a good idea because the stamped lugs on most factory guns are bent, and out of tolerance, it will not show up on accuracy. If you got a 12LRPV or something with a target action I would say you are wasting your time as the large shank actions usually have fairly straight recoil lugs. Nitrating a bolt, action, or barrel, is something I would not suggest; it will not have any effect on accuracy. Adjusting the trigger can be a good or a bad thing, you need to get the trigger to where it is at a repeatable and reliable state, many time when adjusting the target accu-trigger you can get it too light and it will be more of a hindrance than any help what so ever. It will cause slam fires, when closing the bolt, which locks up everything until you recock, do it several times in a row will make you want to throw the rifle. Last question just don’t make since to me, get the best rings, bases and scope you can is the answer. Of the 2 guns you have listed either will do fine in it factory form.

If you want to improve accuracy look no further than the man in the mirror. The old saying hold true, "How do you get to Carnegie hall? The answer is practice practice practice." To start, don't worry about long range until you have mastered short range. I would not recommend even trying to shoot past 200 yards until you have gotten to a point where you can place every shot in at half MOA. That means you should be able to shoot a 1/2 inch 5 shot 100 yard groups or a 1 inch 5 shoot 200 yard groups every time you set up. Get the best equipment you can in regards to rest, sand bags, and scope. Utilize wind flags, a set of streamers made from surveyors tape set at 25 year intervals will make wonders. now get the gun, and set up, and spend as much time as you can behind the trigger, these is where great shooters are made, it don’t have to be an equipment race, get to know your gun.

Here is the biggest piece of advice I can give you one accuracy improvement. If you are not loading your own ammo, you might as well throw it all away. AMMO is the BIGGEST way to improve a guns accuracy. Learn how to prep brass. (Weight sort, debur flasholes, uniform primer pockets. ETC) experiment with seating depth, powder charges, and bullets. Not to brag, but I have taken Savage's right out of the box, and shot 1/2 MOA or better groups all the way out to 1000 yards, and have done it several times to several rifles, with nothing changed. The true secrete is in ammo.

I agree with 82boy, hand loading will do wonders for accuracy. I also found that a good, solid stock can do wonders as well, a $200 B & C Medalist stock took my factory Savage from 1" MOA out of the box to a 1/2" MOA with factory ammo. Once I get a good load developed I have no doubts that I will be able to shoot a single bug hole at 100 yards. With the B & C Medalist you do not have to worry about bedding the action or making sure the barrel is free floated, it was a very simple drop in as I too am all thumbs, if I can do it you can do it. The scope that came on my Savage only lasted 4 rounds before it fell apart, spend the money now and get a good scope.

Brent

Wow! much thanx to all replies above, particularly to 82boy. I didn't expect such detailed advices. I'm very aware of quality glasses, since I've hunted quite extensively. All my rifles wear Swarovski, Zeiss or Leuopold. I once had Chet Brown built me a Blazer rifle for an African hunt. My friend took that rifle directly to Zambia to meet me there. The switch barrel had special dovetails milled in, that didn't quite match the ring's dovetails (explained later by the Blazer importer), and that was on a 375 H&H barrel! And I thought that Chet had already inspected the rifle when the scope was sighted in. He knew it was going on a Safari. I've also seen a few instances where rings don't match up with one another, and I even have two round and pointed aluminum columns from Brownells to check that the rings are aligned with one another. Unfortunately, they are for 1" and not 30mm as is now the norm. I don't know if smiths still make good money from lapping scope rings, but they did fifteen years ago.
I do hand load. When I was hunting, Nosler Partition was the bullet. I've had bad experience with Fed's Hydrashock which my friend took to Zambia for me (again!). I had specified Fed Premium which just came on the market with Nos Part. However, I only did the normal reloading, keeping the the coal within the spec, and just take data from K. Water's which I found very accurate ( compared to factory's at that time). I bought seating depth guide from Stoney, but couldn't quite follow the instruction. They didn't have U Tube then, and I don't trust my aptitude now. I intend to remedy that by taking class in precision reloading.
I also will take class in precision shooting, preferably in LR shooting, since I think that BR is not my style. Pls contradict me if you think that I should begin from the bench.
I'm so glad to hear you all have so much confident in Savage stock rifle. BTW it'll be either 260 Rem for the 12LRP or 300wsm for 12 VLP DBM. But I'll definitely have 6mm br barrel installed for my learning curve untill I get more proficient with precision shooting.
Again much thanx for your kind advices.