Stiff Bolt

Question, why would my bolt be stiff after firing a round. The symptom is the same for both barrels (.223 & 6mm br) on the same model 12 flat back action. Doesn't matter how hot or reduced the load is the amount of force required to lift the bolt is the same. When raising the bolt with no bullet inserted or removing unfired bullet force required to lift bolt is very low. Brass shows no sign of pressure what so ever, primers not flattened, cratered and no ejector marks. Head space per go, no/go gauges is perfect. Two entirely different bolt assemblies used with each barrel. I am stumped.

Without a round in the chamber, if you dry fire, is the bolt still stiff?



By the way, I remember hearing on TV that if your bolt remains stiff for more than 4 hours you should consult a physician. ;D



Ok, sorry about that last comment. (But I saw the shot and just had to take it!)

i have found that a small amount of time in between shots causes the round/barrel/chamber to cool off a little, leading to easier extraction. i found this out last weekend when zeroing my 10FP-SR with the .308 can on it. i zeroed perfect at where i wanted 1.5" high at 100, then just for the heck of it decided to rapid fire 4 rounds (blind mag) on the 4th it took a significantly more force to cycle the bolt back to eject the round. granted i was using rem oil that cooks off pretty quick since i forgot the Slip and even the CLP! But i had a quart of Mobil One synthetic in the back of the truck so i lubed the bolt up with it and did the same fast draw rapid fire without any sluggishness or extra force needed to extract and put in a new shell. Just like an AR some need to be a little wet, although when hunting with mine, i just use a very thin coat of axle grease, yup normal axle grease in the tub...same crap they sell for over $10 a tube in the gun store is the same ingridients give or take a special atom or neutron or something. i do this since i will only be firing one or two rounds at dogs/bobs/lions, maximum of 4 rounds so i don't soak it. give it a shot.

Most times a stiff bolt is contributed to hot loads. Some times worn out brass (fired many times, and will not go back into size.) will be a bit clicky, extra effort is needed at the top of the stroke. I also find that dies play a big issue in this as well, an improper adjusted or short die will cause this problem. You need to measure the amount of shoulder set back you are getting, it seems that certain dies are notorious for being a bit too short, and needing shortened to fit the chamber. Last thing that could possible cause this is an improper fitted bolt handle, the ramp is to steep when contacting the baffle ramp, causing extra effort at the top of the stroke. I dont know that this will help, but it should be praticed, aways greese the ramp of the bolt handle, and the contact lugs of the bolt, before using.

Are you trimming your brass to sammi spec or by feel.I would double check that and also are the cases full of little scratches after firing with virgin brass indicating a rough chamber that any smith worth his salt could polish out for you.

The effort needed to lift the bolt will be different depending on whether or not the firing pin is already cocked or not. I.e. once you pull the trigger and lift the bolt, it will be stiffer because you're having to overcome the firing pin spring tension. If you open the bolt without firing (spring is still compressed) it will be significantly easier. It's a matter of bolt timing in relation to what's happening and when when you open and recock the firing pin.

A more thorough explanation can be found here: http://savageshooters.com/SavageForu...ic,8479.0.html

An explanation of the solution can be found here: http://savageshooters.com/SavageForu...ic,4899.0.html

If your shooting old brass,it might be time to anneal the cases or use fresh brass.
Hardened brass won't resize properly,and will cause bolts to be hard to open.

There is also the .38 pistol cartridge cut short and a ball bearing inserted in the promer pocket. The purpose is to eliminate the friction internaly in the bolt. Its not the answer to all lift problems but does help. I dont know what the link is but maybe Mr. Furious can post it and how to use it.

E Lobo.

So here are few answers to questions, brass is new full length sized and trimmed. There are no scratches on the casings. What I mean by a stiff bolt is it is stiff to lift the bolt not extract the shell. The bolt moves rearward with great ease. I did try the suggestion of lifting the bolt with the firing pin compressed and released and it does require more effort to lift the bolt once the the gun has been fired but the effort required after actually shooting a round is much greater, but there is a significant diffference. I will check out the two posts I believe MrFurious provided to see what I can find. Am I getting closer?? Thanks to everyone for your help, this is a great website with a ton of helpful folks.

ahh, just keep shooting it until it breaks in! that usually takes care of the problem and if you reload, should be no problem. that's on my bucket list to learn.

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Originally Posted by bdpayne2000

I did try the suggestion of lifting the bolt with the firing pin compressed and released and it does require more effort to lift the bolt once the the gun has been fired but the effort required after actually shooting a round is much greater, but there is a significant diffference.

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Ok, What I was alluding to when I asked my question (the serious part of my previous post), was just that. ...and as Mr.Furious has also elaborated, the bolt is harder to lift after the firing pin has been released because you are also compressing the firing pin spring (and of course, you could have timing issues). I just wanted to make sure that this wasn't the perceived issue.

Based on your answer that there is significantly more effort after actually firing a live round, I would suggest you look at the trim, resizing and headspace issues mentioned by other posters who are smarter than I on these issues.

Best of luck. I sincerely hope you resolve your problem.

It sounds more like lug set back. It is only evident after you fire a round.

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Originally Posted by sharpshooter

It sounds more like lug set back. It is only evident after you fire a round.

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Is that repairable? what is needed to correct it?

The lug abutments and bolt lugs need to be re surfaced. Of course this means that it will also have to be re-headspaced.