I am making my first attempt at rebarreling a Savage 10. Having a heck of a time with the barrel nut. This may be a dumb question, but is the nut standard right hand thread?
Thanks for the help.
Eric
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I am making my first attempt at rebarreling a Savage 10. Having a heck of a time with the barrel nut. This may be a dumb question, but is the nut standard right hand thread?
Thanks for the help.
Eric
YES also if you soak it in kroil for about 24 hours it will break loose easier. note i said easier not easy.
Gary
Are you using an action wrench or barrel vise? I've never had good luck with a barrel vise.
I have the Wheeler barrel nut wrench from Midway. I am making my own barrel vise out of hardwood blocks and a 12 ton press I have on hand.
I put the barrel in the vice (I made blocks from delron) and used a deadblow on the nut wrench. Once its free its easy but they have a gorilla tightening them up at the factory.
First time I tried this I was convinced I was going to screw up my gun forever. Kroil oil and an authoritive use of a bronze hammer turned out otherwise. Also pine tar (in baseball sports section) really helps the wood to grip the bbl. Good luck.
I have had to get the dremel out and CUT the nut off. Got to the last hair of the nut, and heard the infamous metallic *TWANG*, then the barrel came right out.
I have heard of a few others cutting off the nut. I am REALLY hesitant to go that route as I would like to try and sell the barrel and would be afraid that I would mess up the barrel.
I did this in three painful steps:
Bought the barrel nut wrench and had it around for a year before needing it.
Bought the Barrel vise from Midway and thought I was all set. All it did was slip. I tried carpet tape, heat, kroil, swearing, dead blow hammer, a guy twice my size, head scratching, more swearing. No dice. The vise squeezing the tapered barrel was like trying to squeeze an ice cube with warm soapy hands, kind of.
Bought the action wrench from Midway. Used the barrel vise to hold the action still, blocked the nut wrench from turning with something stout, added about two feet of pipe to the action wrench handle and the nut finally came loose.
I should'a just bought it all at once and avoided all the frustration, but I was "saving money".
Good times.
read this one, I spent 3 days trying, broke my vise and nut wrench in the process, but you might learn something from my experience http://savageshooters.com/SavageForu...c,43288.0.html
Traction, traction, traction. I like the pine tar trick but I actually started using a piece of leather cut out of the backhand side of a work glove.
good luck. Oh Kroil never hurts. CRC has an orange can product that uses the same formula. Knock'er Loose.
what you really need is the counter-lever, this can be achieved using action wrench, by pushing on it and pulling on the nut wrench at the same time.
Did anyone answer the Left hand Right hand question? ;D... Right hand thread.
dont hold the barrel! hold the action . the nut tightens against the action not the barrel!! read all the other posts about holding the action. MARK25-06
Its been stated before, by SharpShooter i believe, it is tight because the condition of the recoil lug acts as a star type lock washer. You will see when you finally get it apart. I also prefer the action and barrel nut wrench combo along with the impact of a brass or steel hammer. The sharp blows break the bond caused by the galling of the surfaces.
I think you mean HUGEQuote:
"That which does not destroy me, has made a hugh tactical error"
Thanks Dirk! Corrected, stupid fingers!
I use the action wrench, and barrel nut wrench. When they are very hard to break loose, I insert my 1/2" drive of my 14" long
1/2" ratchet into the square hole and use the additional leverage to break the nut loose. haven't had one slip or fail to come free yet. Plus there is no hammering or jerkin the stuff around.
I got really frustrated with my barrel blocks slipping, so I stripped the action, got a big freaking crescent wrench and taped off the jaws, jammed the recoil lug in the wrench, and placed the barrel nut wrench at a 90 degree angle to the crescent wrench. I laid the whole shebang on a section of carpet to protect the gun and gradually stepped on the barrel wrench ( make sure you are turning it in the correct direction!). The nut couldn't withstand the torque from 250 lbs of hillbilly backside and came loose fairly easy. After I broke the seal on the threads I put the gun back in the vise and finished the job. Anyone have any problem with this? Nothing ever touched the reciever to twist it this way and the nut came of a lot easier than all the grunting I did with the blocks.
Thanks everybody for the advise. Werewolf, I think I am going to try your method tomorrow. I am about on the verge of just taking it to a local gunsmith to just have the nut loosened. Not what I want to do. Especially when the rifle is designed to be end user serviceable.
One the 4 Savages Ive swapped bbls. on all I do is wrap elect tape about 7" forward of the action, clamp the barrel between 2 blocks of wood over the tape that I made to fit the bbl. I just use my standard 6" HD garage vice.
Wrench on (before putting blocks on) and give it a hard whap with my leather mallet and its never taken me more than 3 good hits.
spray it with PB Blaster, then heat that barrel nut with propane torch as soon as PBlaster starts to bubble stop and spray it more, heat it up again, do this like 3 - 4 times, then let it cool, then put it in your barrel vise and give that nut a spin, mine broke loose very easy, but I spent like 3 days hammering it, which didn't do any good...
I have done this on several myself.Quote:
Originally Posted by Werewolf
Me too. I have a 15 inch crescent i use and just put a thin leather glove around the action.Quote:
Originally Posted by stangfish
We have success!
I let some Kroil soak in for 2 days, then used Werewolf's method. The nut broke free and the barrel is off.
Thanks for all the tips and support guys. It is greatly appreciated.
Eric