Some 110 question's

Picked up an older 110 '06( non accu-trigger, flat rear receiver) a couple months ago at the gun show. The rifle has iron sights, with a bulge in the barrel where the rear sight is located. This is not a defect, rather it is part of the barrel. Why is this so? Is it just some extra strenghth in the are4a the sight is mounted, or what? The onle place I see savage on the rifle is on the receiver, and the barrel says proofed 30'06. There is no Indian head anywhere on the stock, like my other Savage's have had. Any idea's on how old this rifle may be, as I am planning on rebarreling for a med/long range hunter/target rifle. The serial # is 5 digits, if that helps any.
Thanks in advance for any info.
Eric

That was made before 1966.

and if you look close the bolt and barrel are not the same as a new savage. the newer barrels will not interchange.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Cserv

Picked up an older 110 '06( non accu-trigger, flat rear receiver) a couple months ago at the gun show. The rifle has iron sights, with a bulge in the barrel where the rear sight is located. This is not a defect, rather it is part of the barrel. Why is this so?
Eric

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The bulge is called a sight boss. The purpose is to allow enough diameter for the dovetail on an otherwise light contour.

So can this be used for my intended purpose? If not what kind of value does one of these antique rifles have? Also wondering how bad I took it in the trade? I traded Win M70 300 WSM supershadow with a Nikon scope, got this Savage and $100.

Sorry bud, but you got the short end of the stick on that deal. No way would I trade a Model 70 with Nikon for an older Savage. You should have checked in here first.

El Lobo

Was afraid I took the short end. What is one of these worth? So I can try and recoup, and start my build. Or how can I rebarrel, etc.this action?
Thanks,
Eric

that one will take a gunsmith to machine and fit the barrel

Even though there is a barrel nut, this will still require a smith for the fitting? Anyone have an idea of what this rifle might be worth? It is in real nice condition. The blueing is nice, the stock is in excellent shape, no dings, aluminum butt plate, nice checkering(sharp). Just wondering what I might be able to expect to recoup and start the build I intende w/ this rifle.
Thanks,
Eric

The pre-66 actions will accept the new style barrel...This, however, requires a new bolt head (and related parts about $40) and new bolt body (about $25)...also you need a new firing pin & cross pin (another $15) or you can modify the firing pin body (more threads) and drill out the new style bolt head to fit the large diameter pin...The trigger assembly in the pre-66 is very nice and very adjustable....You can however fit a Timney or other aftermarket trigger but you must have the safety & small related parts from a newer model ($??).....
I have a pre-66 ($25 pawn shop) that I installed a 25-06 Douglas varmint contour barrel from SSS....It shoots one ragged hole at 100 yards...I use the factory trigger (down to about 2-1/2 LBs) and in order to eliminate machining it is set up for single shot only....I made a single shot follower from a simple piece of 1/16" aluminum plate...It works flawlessly simply by dropping the cartridge in and it always chambers up nicely...The plate is flat and fits in the slots that the original magazine was locked into.....
The pre-66 fits right in any LA stock stock made for staggered feed.....Mine wears a $100 B&C Durramax
Your original plan is achievable but you may be better off to sell it as is for a couple of hundred bucks or maybe a little more and buy a new Stevens or another used Savage.
Good luck whatever you decide,
Randy

What would require machining, after swapping to a newer bolt assembly. Will I also need a newer barrel nut, or can I use the one on this barrel? I would like to keep it a repeater.
Thanks for aby info/suggestions.
Eric

Mine started out as a 7MM mag so the follower and mag were pretty much doomed from the start(the mag was actually broken when I got it so I never even tried the old mag). I don,t know exactly what it woud take as far as machining but I tried to fit a regular staggered feed magazine to it and could not tweak it enough to make it feed properly and consistently...You may however discard the standing ejector & related parts and be able to make yours work if you stay in the same .473 head family of cartridges....I am only assuming that the new style bolt head will pick up and push the rounds forward....The bolt heads are different so without one in front of me I am not sure...

Maybe if you are lucky no machining will be required....

Am wanting to rebarrel in 30'06 just a heavier contour, add a dbm , stock, and optics. Rework the trigger, and call it good.

Randy,
So if I read correctly, replace bolt face and firing pin to small type. And the tapered barrel nut means lg.shank barrel. Think I found most of the parts at Midway. Or less of headache to try to sell or trade into a newer Savage/Stevens.

Not large shank. The old nut will work.

You really only need a complete new bolt and the barrel of your choice. You'll also need to replace the old mag box with a stagger feed mag box to get rid of the standing ejector.

It will only cost a bit more than the $100 you got for your Win.

Geargrinder,
So I should be good with a new small hole bolt and new barrel, remove the standing ejector, and continue with my build.
Eric

Geargrinder,
So just a new small firing pin bolt, barrel, and mag w/ follower and should be good. Add stock , optics and rework trigger. I found complete bolt assemblies and barrel at Midway for decent price. About $100 for the bolt, and a barrel kit( w/ wrench and headspace gauges) for around $139. So my only real additionl cost will be replacing the bolt assembly.
Thanks for the great info instead of your screwed.
Eric

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Cserv

Geargrinder,
So just a new small firing pin bolt, barrel, and mag w/ follower and should be good. Add stock , optics and rework trigger. I found complete bolt assemblies and barrel at Midway for decent price. About $100 for the bolt, and a barrel kit( w/ wrench and headspace gauges) for around $139. So my only real additionl cost will be replacing the bolt assembly.
Thanks for the great info instead of your screwed.
Eric

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That's about it. If you run into any problems post up some questions or sent a PM. We're here to help.

Good call Geargrinder,
The parts to fix your old bolt run about $77 and change + shipping charges from 2 places.
The bolt from midway is 92 bucks + ejector, ej spring & ej pin for a total of about $100 bucks and only one shipping charge...And you have hardly anything to put together...plus the internals are easier to find and less expensive than the old style if you ever need them......When I put my first old one together I learned each hard lesson one part at a time....A machinist friend actually put the correct hole in the first bolt body but the hassle wasn't worth the effort....A new bolt body was only $25 bucks from SSS so that is what I did on my last pre-66...I since have bought a spare bolt to use with small rifle on my switch barrel action...for the extra $20 it sure is easier than putting a whole bolt together....Unless someone tells me different as far as I know all the old models are small shank (1.050 x 20 tpi) so your barrel nut should work just fine...
Good luck Cserv and remember once you get caught up in this Savage spiderweb you most likely will have to get treatment of some form or another to get out and break the habit.... ;) I am now working on number 4 and looking for more....
Randy

So I dont need to have notch cut, or an of the other extra stuff I have heard. Just new barrel, new bolt, and go on with my build.
Thanks again for all the great info.
Eric