extraction of 6XC and 260 AI

I am at the working up a load stage of my first 2 Savage/Stevens builds....i have noticed that if i bring the bolt back slowly to eject the brass (fired) into my hand, the neck on both rounds seem to get "stuck" in the groove that the bolt rides in on the right side of the action, This is a RH action (10) and thought it's not a big deal, it's a pita to have to palm the bolt back to finish extraction....i know most have concerns with weak extraction, but it seems like it's pushing the case neck to hard against the receiver until it clears the port...maybe just need to move bolt handle quickly, and retrieve brass from the dirt? Thanks for any help,,,rsbhunter

Rsb, Had the same problem on a "still in process" 200 Steve LA build. Just hated to see all that beautifully prepped brass get dinged & scratched................ My ejector was slammin' the cases into the right side of action prior to making the e-port. Couple things I found: The hole for the ejector spring was badly galled during the machining process. Does your ejector move freely or does it hang up or stutter & cause way to much ejector spring tension? Fix= replace bolt face. If the spring is moving freely you can cut a few coils from the spring.(trial & error) Or replace your current spring with a .223 spring ( not as Much tension) or you can remove the ejector & spring & pick the cartridge off the feed ramp rather handily. ( wouldn't recommend for Huntin' rifle) You can get the springs through savage for a couple bucks ea. .............. Right now I've removed the ejector assy. & have a new bolt face on order. Hope this helps, Oh Yah, Careful use of a 1/16th in. punch pushing from the OPPOSITE side of the "D" shaped cut in the BF allows you to remove the eject. assy & inspect. The pins are pretty stout & handled carefully, you should be able re-use.

The cases that have a shoulder diameter close to a 'wedge' fit in the bolt groove will get caught, I had same problem 6XC, polish the corners lightly.

Almost forgot, I'd try all remedys other than replacing bolt face ( if that's your problem) as a bolt face change will require re-headspacing. If you remove the ejector assy. be prepared for flying parts ;D

gotcha and scott...Thanks for the advice...i did run some 600 grit paper over the bolt guide rails/edges...but i'm sure i can do a more effective job with my dremel and some polishing rouge.....if that don't do it....then i'll dive into the ejector spring/bolt face project... glad to hear there is a fix....as far as headspacing again...i'm so happy to be able to do it...i have a go gauge.....this was one of the "mystery" jobs i always wanted to do on a rifle...honestly adds that "I built it myself" factor!!! Thanks again, rsbhunter

I had the same problem with a 270 I got from Academy Sports. It worked fine in the original caliber but started doing the jamming when I rebarrel to 6.5 Lapua. I was lucky, the problem finally worked itself out.

RSB, Evans, Ga Cop Hmmmmm the 6XC & 6.5X47 Are VERY similar in size & shape. The 260 a slightly different critter in that regard. You have SA we have LA's. I wonder if ejector springs are common? My S.N. is G975519 if you'd like to do a search @ Savage parts. Hopefully a little spit n' polish will solve yur problem. Drop me a PM when when you reach a fix. Would be very interested. Thanks, Dale

The problem is as Scott says, the shoulder diameter is slightly larger than the width of the raceways and it tends to wedge when tipped out to eject. The sharp edge at the junction of the lug abutments and the top edge of the raceway tends to dig into the case for even more. The fix is to break the sharp edge and slightly taper the raceway to larger than the shoulder size.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y48...ratchpoint.jpg

Sharpshooter, Evans, Nice touch! Now I've got something positive to do while I wait for my new bolt face. The tip is appreciated. :)

Fred..............you need to write a book "A Guide to Savage Tuning and Maintenance".