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Was easy to finish and shoots as good as it looks.. Super sniper 10X scope. 12fv 308. .5moa with handloads
Pete
http://images5a.snapfish.com/2323232...8%3A9337nu0mrj
http://images5a.snapfish.com/2323232...8%3C7337nu0mrj
http://images5a.snapfish.com/2323232...8%3C9337nu0mrj
Sweet! What is the finish texture? Would you compare this stock to a B&C Medalist as far as its dimensions, intended use- tactical/ varmit? What is your opinion of the quality for the $?
Good looking gun! I'll be painting one up soon and hope that it turns out this well -- any chance we can have a brief tutorial, or at least supplies list? I'd like to know what you used to get that texture.
Great looking rig!Quote:
Originally Posted by savageboy
I have held and inspected numerous stock types from numerous manufacturers. For the money there is none better than a Stockade if you are looking for a synthetic stock. They are pretty rigid without being heavy. My whole rifle weighs 8.8 pounds with the scope, bipod and sitting in a PDS/T Stockade stock.
There are better stocks out there but none are a better value than the Stockades.
I can post pictures of the inletting of mine as it was shipped. I ordered the money saver which is the biggest deal there is and only took about an hour to finish.
Dolomite
Would be more then happy to go over the painting that was done. I am getting Married on Saturday and time is tight right now.. I will post a tutorial on Tuesday...Quote:
Originally Posted by lwink
Thank you for the kind words..
Pete
Ya, two days before the wedding and I think I will be able to sleep!!
Parts List:80, 150 & 400 grit sand paper
JB weld to use as filler
Spot puddy
Zinsser Bulls eye 1-2-3 primer ( spay can)
Rust-Oleum American accents " STONE" the color I used was stone canyon moss for the base color and stone black granite for the punisher.
Krylon Matte clear.
dupla color automotive primer or other brands is fine
step one, put action in stock and bolt it in. check to make sure everything works as it should. I had to inlet a little around the saftey. A dremel works well but go very slow and only take off what you need.
Step two, lightly sand the stock with the 150 grit sand paper. stock will turn a grey color. use the 80 grit to even seams out but go slow.
Step three, clean off stock of dust and oils. any degreaser cleaner will work fine.
step four, fill in the seams and pin holes with JB weld. Let dry over night. when it is dry light sand the jb weld smooth with 150 grit. the spot puddy may be used to fill in very miner pin holes. But if you are going for the textured look there is no need to use the puddy.
Step five, were rubber gloves and clean stock again. when stock is clean hang it from string. I took the butt pad off and used one of the screws with a washer on it to attach the string. Now you are ready for the Zinsser primer. shake well and apply thin even coats. let sit for 5 minutes between coats. 3 coats should be good. Let it dry!!
step six, use gloves again, very lightly sand stock with 400 grit paper. ( Wet sand) if you sand past the primer in small spots its ok. clean stock and let dry. when dry give it 3 or 4 coats of the auto- primer. let dry over night. when dry sand with 400 one more time, again very lightly...
step seven, put the gloves back on and clean stock. lightly spray the inlet of the stock ( were action and barrel go) with flat black paint. again 3 light coats is fine. after it is dry you are ready to paint the base color. tape the flat black off so you dont get any base color on it. the stone paint has the texture already built in. the green I used has black, white, grey and pale red in it. But you can buy this stone paint in a light tan ( Sand color) then after it is dry you can spray over it in any other base color..3 or 4 light coats is all you need.
To paint the skull I bought two decals from ebay. taped off around the decal then sprayed the balck first. after that was dry I put the decals on the black very lightley. then sprayed the green. just after the last coat of green I pulled the decal off with a knife. It was hard to find the decal under the green. just take your time.
Step eight, you are ready for the matte clear. this can be done about 20 minutes after last coat of base it put on. give it 3 or 4 coats. Note: this paint if put on too heavy with turn from clear to a milky white. would be cool on a snow camo job. if this does happen let dry and lightly, lightly, lightly sand the cloudy spots. clean off and hit again with a thin coat.
You are now done. I would wate a week or so before you put the action in place. Hope this helps, if any questions please send me a e-mail, Keep in mind this is how I did my stock and there are many different ways to do it. you could probly get away with not useing the 400 grit paper. But I fill that step will give you a good surface for the color's to bond too. If you want a car like finish, well you have some more sanding and priming steps to do...
Have fun!!
Pete
And before anybody jumps in and says Krylon won't last.
My wife's AR was painted 3 years ago using Krylon and is almost as good as the day I did it. There is some chipping around the takedown pins and on the bottom of the grip but other than that it looks pristine. It gets used ALOT, even on the flash hider it is still there albeit a little stained from the carbon. The barrel has gotton hot enough that you can't touch it.
I think the biggest key is to let it cure good. The longer it stays on the harder it gets too. I have a scope that I was trying to strip after about a year, it was a PITA even with acetone and MEK.
Dolomite
Great how-to Pete, looks like a good one to follow for my upcoming project for sure. Thanks for sharing your experience, and congrats on the upcoming wedding!