Smoky case necks.

I have started to develop a load for my 243 Predator Max. It took to the 87 V-Max and H380 right away, shooting less than an inch with a brand new rifle. I sized and neck turned the cases to a nice consistent thickness before loading. I have two loads I am zeroing in on, one is about 95%, and one is about 90%. Both group well, but the 90% load is going into 1/4 inches for three rounds! I noticed that load has smoky case necks.

Anything to worry about?

I don't mind a little extra cleanup for better accuracy. I am expecting the smoky-ness to go away once fire-formed.

Any opinions?

Im far from an expert, but I've done a lot of reading.... Two possiblities that I have read about, Low pressure loads, or too hard brass.... If its the same brass on both loads, I would suspect the first one.... annealing the case necks would be the solution there... Personaly though, i would shoot them a second time now that they are fireformed and see what happens....

Again, I have no personal experience here, just what I have read.....

Personally, I wouldn't worry about the smokey necks if the load is shooting accurate. A quick swipe with steel wool before resizing and your good to go. Your load may be a bit on the light side too causing the soot because the neck is not expanding completely to seal the chamber. How much did you remove from the necks prior to loading?

I annealed before any loading. I took less that .0001 off of the necks, just brightened up the thick side, to an overall average thickness of right around. .0014. That measurement was consistent before and after firing. I am pretty sure I am good-to-go, I will just shoot them again, and see.

IMO rounds with a little bit of sooty necks is where a load is preforming the best. I find as long as the necks are blackened, and it doesn't rub off on your figures that the round is preforming good. Here is a picture of 3 of my brass where I found them all to shoot the best. From left to right 30BR (Shoot a few 100 yard 5 shot groups in the .1 area like this.) 6mmBR (Shoot a few 100 yard 5 shot groups in the .2 area and groups at 600 yards just at 3 inches like this.) last is a 6PPC. (Shoot a many 100 yard 5 shot groups in the mid to low .1 area like this the gun aggs in the low .2's.) I just use a bit of 0000 steel wool, and they clean right up.
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...y/IMG_0505.jpg

The picture did not come out well to look at them in person the necks look black.
I found that as long as you cant wipe the black off with your finger you are good. I did have a 243 win, that the brass got work harden, and the case had black sooty necks where you could wipe the black off with you finger, I annealed them and they went back to the way the ones in the picture do. I can't remember where I heard or read that Tony Boyer (Benchrest hall of fame member considered the best in the sport.) said a tuned load will have sooty necks.

Chamber neck diameter, case neck diameter, brass hardness, powder burning rate and chamber pressure determine if the neck of the case gets combustion byproducts on them.

What you see is normal for the conditions "you" created in "your" chamber.

It's the powder (H380). My brass all looks like it came out of an AR-15 when I use H-380. The powder varied so much between lots I quit using it and switched to Varget.
To prove this dirty powder theory, load any other powder with the same brass and it will clean up.

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It's the powder (H380).

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I wondered that... I am happy with the accuracy. I will probably continue with it for now...

Thanks for all the replies. ;)

H-380 performs VERY well for me in my 22-250. So much so that it's the only powder I load for it. As others have said, it is a dirty powder. My 22-250 loads do the same thing as your 243 loads are doing. The necks are sooty. I don't care. It shoots too good to mess with. As you say, 3 shots into .25" is something I could be happy with. My 22-250 will put 5 into one hole @ 100 if I can stay focused.

My 243 prefers Win 760 and the same 87 gr vmax you're shooting. Just goes to show that each rifle is an individual.

I'd keep shooting it and not worry about it. That's what case tumblers (vibratory cleaners) are for.

Enjoy.

That's exactly what you are looking for. But, the soot should only be on 3/4 to 7/8 of the neck. I shows that the casing is sealed in the chamber and the neck is releasing the bullet. Ideally, the soot should be an even ring around the neck, any variation will show where the neck is 'holding' onto the bullet, high or uneven neck tension etc. I've found that soot ring and primer signs coincide w/ pressure. If the soot ring is up on the shoulder = light load, light pressure. If the soot ring is high on the neck or not showing at all = hot load, hot pressure. All powders I've tried do the same thing. Just select the load combination that your particular rifle likes. Good Luck!!

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That's exactly what you are looking for. But, the soot should only be on 3/4 to 7/8 of the neck. I shows that the casing is sealed in the chamber and the neck is releasing the bullet.

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Exaust3...you nailed it. That's exactly what I am seeing, thanks!

the soot use to worry me but the last 4 outings i cant argue with 1.3-.83 groups @ 300yrds so i'll live with soot on them