You can view the page at http://www.savageshooters.com/test/c...ent-Procedures
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You can view the page at http://www.savageshooters.com/test/c...ent-Procedures
Excellent pix and good instructions.
The last thing I did when I finished my .35 Whelen was to adjust the trigger using written instructions on this forum. Turned a pretty average trigger into an excelent trigger. After sighting in my first three shots could be covered by a quarter. Much of it I attribute to a good trigger. These isntructions are excellent, thanks PD
El Lobo
I found this description straightforward, easy to follow, and incredibly helpful. Took my 116 from about a ten pound pull with noticeable creep and almost 1/8" of overtravel to a clean, crisp, 4lbs or so in about five minutes. Thanks very much!
KeS
Is this also for a 12FLVSS ?
Great post. I wish I would have had this years ago. I adjusted the trigger on my nephew's 110 .270 Win and had to learn it the hard way. It took me hours to get the trigger light, mostly creep-free and most importantly - safe. This would have made it easy.
Good write up!!!
How come it is asking me to log in when I am already logged in?
Click the box that says "remember me" or something like that and it will hopefully work for you. That's what I had to do.
I found this description straightforward, easy to follow, and incredibly helpful. I just adjusted the trigger on my 110FP
308. Winchester that I just purchased used. It was having issues of going off on the bolt closing I have it set to about 3lbs with the safety adjusted. Thanks!
Great instuctions. I turned the trigger tension screw only half a turn counter clockwise and the trigger pull went fron over seven to 4.5 according to my RCBS pull tool. Sweet. I have not hit the range yet but will soon. I,m sure my savage 110E in 30:06 will be a lot easier to shoot groups.
Great tutorial
Is this the same trigger set up as on the 112?
What happened... I can't get this?
The old link is no good. Here is the updated link to the new location of this article.
http://www.savageshooters.com/conten...ent-Procedures
Very good write up. I have a Stevens 200. My trigger doesn't have the sear engagement screw or the over travel screw. This helped me understand how the different parts interact. Even without the extra screws this help me.
I have it set to 4 lbs and it breaks fairly clean and very little over travel.
Leo
I am blocked from this page
OK, I have a situation. I followed the instructions and have found myself in a pickle. Everyting's fine until I get to the safety screw. I screw it down until the trigger won't pull with the safety on, but then the safety switch won't operate. So then i back it off until the switch works, but then the trigger pulls with the safety on. Back and forth and back and forth. Any ideas?
Also, IDK, why they call it a 3 screw trigger, there's 6 screws that can be adjusted and 4 of them are on the trigger; 1) the trigger pull weight screw; 2) the screw on the safety bar; 3) The safety screw (that's on the trigger); 4) the over-travel screw (on the trigger); 5) The sear screw (on the trigger); 6) the screw on the back of the trigger that bears down on the trigger pin.
I'd like to add another way of looking at it (that helped me tremendously). In the sprit of the "go- no go" theme- adjust the screws to a "no go" situation and then back off to a "go" and it's good: The screw on the safety bar itself should be adjusted. Too tight and the safety won't work, too loose and safety will have too much play- there should be no (up and down) play in the safety switch- so, screw down until the safety won't work (no go), then back it off just until it does(go).
BTW, the safety is a 3 position switch: all the way back -safety is on- trigger won't pull and bolt will not open. Middle position- trigger won't pull, bolt WILL open,; all the way forward- firing position - trigger pulls, bolt will cycle. ALL 3 positions should be positive and firm. if not, the flat spring on the safety bar is too loose against the pin.
The sear screw: as per instructions up above- cock the bolt, safety off, screw it clockwise until it trips the sear, then back it off at least 1/2 (or more) turn.
The safety screw (on the trigger) makes sure the trigger won't pull when the safey is on. Too tight and safety won't work (no go), too loose and the trigger will fire with the safety on. Screw it down until the safety won't work. Then back it off just enough for the safety to work (1/16") (go). That's the "drop test" screw.
The over-travel screw: too tight and sear won't release, too loose and the gun will fire with the bolt closing. So tighten the screw until sear won't release (no go) and then back it off until it does, then another 1/4 turn (go).
The trigger pull weight screw- clockwise increases trigger pull, counter- clockwise lessens, but on my rifle, no matter where I adjust it, it has 2 1/2lbs pull, period.
Finally the screw on the back of the trigger itself, it screws againt the trigger pin and afaik, doe nothing but increases trigger pull. Hope that helps.
So I contacted Savage.com and they said they couldn't help me, that they don't mess (at all, in any way shape or form) with any Savages made prior to 1995.
I’m going to add a bit as some of cchgn’s assertions are incorrect. The 3-screw trigger he has is the most elaborate. Not every 3-screw has a safety bar with a set screw or a set screw in back of the trigger. The screw in the Safety Bar is there to keep it in parallel dimension with the trigger & Action above. If the screw is adjusted too loose, the safety bar will “lean” forward & the safety will not function. The screw on the back of the trigger is not an adjustment whatsoever. Again, this design does not use e-clips to hold the pins in place. Rather, the trigger pin has a depression in the middle. The set screw is in place to hold the trigger pin in the center. It should be adjusted the screw tip is in the depression of the pin, but not bottomed out on the pin, otherwise it will lock the pin from turning in the bracket. As the screw is a tighter fit in the trigger hole, not turning in the bracket causes additional rotational torque, giving the feeling of a heavier pull weight. Lastly, the overtravel screw also has no bearing on the trigger tripping accidentally. Setting it too loose simply allows the trigger to be pulled further than it should be. This adds to a “sloppy” feel. Correctly adjusted & limited overtravel give a trigger pull that “Glass Rod” like break; that feeling of the trigger just falling away. There is much more to a trigger’s pull than simply the weight a little gauge tells us. A human finger has approximately 3000 “touch” receptors or, nerve endings at the tip which send signals to our brain. All of the characteristics of the trigger including Pull Weight, Take Up, Creep, Smoothness, Break & Over-Travel, all work together to generate the .feel of what we call a “Good” trigger.