What is everyones most accurate (factory) .223 ammo, for their Stevens 200. 1in9 twist. I'm trying not to waist money on trial & error. I know all guns are diff, I just need a good starting point. Thanks all. :)
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What is everyones most accurate (factory) .223 ammo, for their Stevens 200. 1in9 twist. I'm trying not to waist money on trial & error. I know all guns are diff, I just need a good starting point. Thanks all. :)
R29l20 i understand what you mean by not wasting money the question to ask isnt the most accurate its how much are you willing to spend on factory ammo to get that accuracy? my savage. 1-9 likes the 69smks really well and i have heard all the rage on 75 grain hornady amax's we need more info here you punchin paper killin critters or just plinkin? what do you consider accurate?? maybe if we know what your purpose is we can help a lil more.
I'm looking for a sub moa load for deer. :)
The 75 grain A-Max is a good performer on game and should shoot well in your 1 in 9 twist, they do in mine but I handload them.
not to steal a thread here but ga what kinda groups you gettin with the 75 A-max's my savage shoots the 69smks into the .3s most of the time .2s if i do my part well.
I use to own a Stevens 223 but sold it a couple of years ago.
I remember it doing well with Ultramax 55gr. Blackhills also shot well (52-55gr).
On reloads, flat base sierra 60s shot very well.
I'm getting 1.4" groups at 300 yards with my 223 Ackley Improved.Quote:
Originally Posted by quickkillaught6
Nobody shoots (factory loads) . ???
Seems like you are annoyed that more people aren't responding, but you need to give more info. Where are you planning on deer hunting? Mid west, you can't get a 223 bullet heavy enough for a 250lbs deer. down south with 100-125 deer a few factory loads will work. Also, what kind of range do you expect? and why sub MOA? As long as you can keep it in the heart/lung area at the range you expect, isn't that good enough? Problem with this sport is it's gonna cost money. Two barrels,made right after each other with same reamer, blank, lathe, and installed by the same person at the factory, can have completely different characteristics.Quote:
Originally Posted by r29l20
I didn't know it was such a tough (?). Sorry. Also try reading the original posts closer. It's really not that hard.
If I had to use factory loads (which I have in cartridges other than .223) I would use the 55 grain Remington soft points or Hornady 55 V-max. Either will be accurate enough for deer. The only experience I have with factory .223 was with Hornady 55 V-max. My friend shot a buck with his AR. It was 120 yards. The deer walked off about 10 yards after the first shot, so he shot again, and the deer dropped. The shots were placed perfectly about 2" apart. They absolutely destroyed the heart/lungs. If he would have waited a few seconds later after that first shot, the deer would have died right there anyways. I know V-max's are not designed for deer sized game, but the deer in TX aren't a whole lot bigger than the average coyote. I WOULD NOT shoot through the shoulder bone with these bullets.
-Dan
sorry again l20 didnt mean to hyjack. if you are concerned about cost please save up some nickles and dimes. I know factory ammo is hit an miss. To get quality sub moa ammo you are looking at like stated b4 a hornady case with a 55vmax bullet or something that has been assembled just like if you were to reload it. By this time i realize you havent got a reloader or access. I would look into the 55-69 grain bullets for a 1-9 twist and I DEF. AGREE with smk shoe, where and what sized target at what range are you planning on disbatching the target? set up after you zero and go to that range and practice a bullet that penatrates well on a deer is a tall glass to fill so a heart lung shot is essential. a well placed shot beats a heavy mag IMO because your hunting for meat not hamburger. Most Savage rifles in my experience like factory hornady ammo. what grain....??? your gun will tell you that part. again im sorry and hope this helps
Yes it does, thanks. Yesterday I shot a box of 55 gr. Hornadys. I had cloverleaf groups with them at 100 yards. :)
r29l20, do you have anyone close to you that reloads? You can get a basic reload kit from lee for about $100. the Lee Challenger Breech Lock Single Stage Press Anniversary Kit is a good basic set up. Add a set of dies for about $25 and you are ready to load. I had a RCBS partner press I picked up in 1989 and loaded a few hundred thousand rounds before it wore out. cost breakdown if reloaded is .21$ for powder, .17$ for bullet and .03$ for primers. total cost is .41$ per round. most of the decent factory hunting ammo is gonna run over 20$ a box. People say you save money reloading, I just shoot more. You can also save alot buy using cheap components for plinking and trigger time and buy the really good quality stuff for accuracy and hunting. Gives YOU the ability to shoot what YOU want, not what the factory thinks you should shoot. I've been reloading for 22+ years and it becomes a hobby in itself. Ability to fine tune your ammo and gun together is another plus
very well put smk very well put indeed. Just my experience but IF i cant get a gun to shoot at LEAST a cloverleaf at 100 (personal preff. 1hole) with a factory gun.. SELL IT because with the unlimited amount of components that are available. you can find something it likes. +1 SMK
If you figure powder buying in bulk at $20.00/lb, a 223 will usually load somewhere between 250-290 rds/lb figuring a load between 24 and 28 grains. That will put the cost of powder at 7-8 cents/rd. Primers will be between 1.5 and 3 cents each. Good bullets can be had for as low as 8 cents each, but 15 cents is certainly easily attainable for v-max in bulk. That makes 223 loads at about 25 cents each if components are bought in bulk for top quality varmint ammo. Good practice ammo can be produced for less than 20 cents each not counting brass or the cost of equipment. 223 brass is usually readily available and can be loaded many times, so that cost is negligible.
Not trying to hijack this tread, but doubleup is right, I use mostly range pickup brass for plinking and blasting. you can usually pickup a couple of hundred pieces any day at the range. Little prep work and your shooting. I'd like to know where you get primers for 1.5 cents each (LOL), but you can save even more on powder from powdervalley. a 8lb keg costs $133ish for varget, benchmark, AA2230. works out to about $16 a lb.
WOLF 223 PRIMERS (KVB223M)- per 1000=$15.50 at Powder Valley right now. I also bought 15,000 last summer from Wideners for the same price. Two or three of us will usually wait and order together to cut down on the hazmat fee but it isn't unusual during the year for specials by Powder Valley to waive the hazmat and shipping if you order enough. But even if they don't, ordering 25,000 only increases the cost to $16.50/1,000 and we order our powder at the same time.
The Wolf primer in 223m (harder cup) has shot every bit as good for me as the Rem. 7.5 BR which was my usual primer.
Sorry, my apologies if I hijacked the thread.
no apoligies, I commented about ME not hijacking the thread to talk reloading.