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I have a Mark II BV that I use for benchrest matches. The 3.0lb trigger pull is costing me matches.
Is there any *good* way to reduce the trigger pull? I can't find any replacement triggers for the AccuTrigger.
The guys I shoot against are shooting $1500-$2000 Anschutz rifle with 14oz triggers.
You can cut the main spring, but that is pretty permenant, especially if you cut too much.
You can also get the Rifle Basix Trigger for Savage. Replaces the accutrigger, and can get down around 1.25 lbs.
http://www.riflebasix.com/index.php?...roducts_id=180
Hi Guys,
What is the Rifle Basix Trigger from Savage?
i ended up clipping the coil 1/4 at a time and i think i ended up cutting 2 coils off.....i dont have a scale but it feels close to or under 1lb......
i currently use it in 3P and im shooting against highend anschuts also.......seems to be keeping up fairly well.
sweet.
gonna keep that trick in my files
on the cheap side the spring trick and the ball point pen spring trick:
LOW BUDGET .22 TRAINER - trigger modification
the Rifle Basix is a great replacement, i have one in my pre accutrigger BV, i have it at 3/4lb with no slam fires and the safety still works. also have one in my stevens 200, and my other non-savage rimfire. very satisfied with it.
The new E-receiver Savages aren't as straight-forward to "clip" the trigger pull spring since the spring's configuration and top anchor point are different from the previous receiver design. Also, Savage will NOT sell you, as an individual, a replacement spring if you screw up the original.
After playing with the Accutrigger on my new BTVLS, I decided to buy the Rifle Basix Sav-RAT trigger and installed it last night. The difference is astounding. I couldn't get the OEM Accutrigger below 3 pounds. The RB trigger is set at 1.25 pounds and is very crisp and no "slam fires" no matter how fast I work the bolt. I think it would be reliable even if set a bit lower but it's fine where it is. Money well spent.
For a total cost of $1.09 plus tax I drastically improved the trigger pull of my MKII BV HBAR accutrigger. It now breaks like glass at around 1.5 pounds and has zero discernable overtravel.
BLUF: I removed the accutrigger spring (store it away in case I need to replace it later) and replaced it with a setscrew that holds an aftermarket spring in place and also acts as a trigger overtravel adjustment as well.
Here's how I did it.
Supplies needed Total price: $1.09 plus sales tax:
Spring: 7/32 diameter, .0175 (I think. Maybe it was .020) wire thickness, length 1 ¼”? ($0.69 at my local Ace Hardware)
Setscrew: #10x24tpi x ½” ($0.40 at my local Ace Hardware)
1. Safety Checks:
a. Always point the rifle in a safe direction
b. remove magazine
c. cycle the bolt to remove any round in the chamber
d. Visually check to confirm that the rifle is unloaded and the barrel is clear.
2. Reduce Trigger Weight
a. Turn rifle upside down in rest.
b. Remove stock
c. Remove flat safety lever spring
d. Remove e-clip from trigger pivot pin.
e. Carefully remove trigger and accutrigger
f. carefully unscrew trigger spring from trigger.
g. insert 10x24tpi setscrew into threaded hole from which accutrigger spring was removed.
h. Screw setscrew in far enough so that it protrudes from the trigger and provides a “stud” to hold the spring in place
i. Cut the spring in half (or cut more than half and work your way down to the desired trigger weight by repeating steps i through l cutting off one half or one coil at a time until the desired trigger weight has been reached.
j. Holding the spring over the protruding end of the setscrew reassemble the trigger.
k. Cock and dry fire the rifle.
l. At this point, my trigger pull was slightly less than 1.6 pounds. I could have gone lower, but this was good enough for me.
m. Note: With the accutrigger, if there is not enough spring tension (I don't know what the minimum is, the accutrigger will not function properly.
n. Note: You can probably lighten the spring tension on the center blade of the accutrigger, but I had no need to get a true hair trigger, so I left it alone. I am sure there are more experienced folks out there who can itemize the dangers of reducing the pull weight of the center blade of the accutrigger.
3. Overtravel Adjustment:
a. Tighten the setscrew ½ turn at a time until the setscrew keeps the sear from releasing when the trigger is pulled.
b. When you pull the trigger and the sear does not release, loosen the setscrew slowly until the sear releases and then loosen an additional amount, perhaps an eighth or a quarter of a turn to account for play in the threads.
c. Counting the turns required, unscrew the setscrew completely. Degrease the setscrew and the threaded hole in the trigger. Apply thread locking adhesive to the setscrew and retighten to the previous position. tighten until the sear does not release and then back off until the trigger functions properly.
d. Replace E-clip.
e. Test weapon to make sure it will not slam fire, fire with safety on, or fire from being bumped banged, dropped, and that the safety works properly.
Note: Since you have to depress the trigger to remove the bolt, you will have to take the stock off and back out the overtravel/spring retainer screw (and possibly the spring itself) in order to remove the bolt.
For additional good information about polishing contact surfaces and smoothing the bolt action, please see:
http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums...ad.php?t=78552
It is a long string of posts, but has some very good information about Savage rimfire tweaking.
Update:
After doing all the stuff I discussed in the last post, I disassembled the bolt and polished the living daylights out of all contact surfaces, and when I reassembled everything, the trigger pull is now somewhere between 1 and 1.5 pounds. (After my last post it was just above 1.5 pounds)
Sorry about the imprecise trigger pull measurements, but I have a set of trigger weights designed for testing competition triggers to make sure they are above the minimum, but they don't tell you exactly what the trigger pull is (Basically a trigger pull go/no-go gauge.)
...and, yes, I had to loosen the setscrew and remove the trigger spring to take out the bolt. If I used a stronger spring with fewer windings, perhaps I would not have to remove the spring. Not sure.
Also, I didn't lighten the striker as suggested in the link I posted in my previous post.
I did polish the firing pin, however until the contact surfaces were mirror bright.
I lubed the bolt spring and contact surfaces with antiseize, and coated it all with a light coat of CLP and wiped off the excess.
Now to figure out what ammo this beast likes and see if I can shoot flies eyes at 50 yards!
Take care of yourselves and be SAFE!
I know it's been a couple years since I originally started this thread, but I'm wondering is there is anything new that I don't know about. Again the is for the ACCUTRIGGER version of the Savage rimfire.
I'm not sure I want to spend $100 to only get to 1.25# to 1.5#
And I for sure don't want to take the gun apart every time I want to remove the bolt.
I thought one should not polish the contact surfaces as they have a layer of hardened metal, pls clarify for us newbies which surface is ok to polish, THanks!!! :-)Quote:
Originally Posted by thomae
Do not file, if using a hone just use a fine stone very lightly. Polish is good and necessary.
Be observant and test many times without a round in the chamber. Test for bump and slam fire.
Is the Sharp Shooter Supply triggers an option for you?
Not bashing what you are trying to accomplish but there are very few shooters who use Savages in rimfire BR matches. This is probably part of the reason you can't find anything.
I polished all the BOLT surfaces that rub against anything. It's been a few years, but my recollection is that I did not polish any of the sear engagement surfaces for the very reason you state. I believe I did polish the sides of the trigger where it rubs around the pivot pin hole. Does that clarify?Quote:
Originally Posted by Stockrex
I wonder how much material you would have to remove when polishing to get through the hardness?Quote:
It's been a few years, but my recollection is that I did not polish any of the sear engagement surfaces for the very reason you state.
Alot... polish away. Don't grind...... you'll find a drastic improvement with a slight stretch of the sear spring and light polishing.... Check out the savage section on Www.rimfirecentral.com, they have very good how to tutorials on trigger fixes and whatever else you need.
Mitch
Thank youQuote:
Alot... polish away.
THanks!Quote:
Originally Posted by stangfish
I don't understand something; I thought all accu-triggers could be set well below 3 lb trigger pull, and some models even below a 1 lb trigger pull.
why so secretive on your solution? If you have advice to offer then offer it! If we have to contact you then you must be wanting to sell something since you even state it is a cheaper cost? Which is it?
Maybe rdssert is talking about something like the E-Z pull trigger assist. I have one on a Rossi .223 Single shot varmint and it makes a big difference.
It adds the mechanical advantage of leverage to the trigger, thus lowering the felt pull a lot.
I am not selling this item and I have no financial gain in the company.
http://www.ezpulltriggerassist.com/
http://www.ezpulltriggerassist.com/images/EZP_new.jpg
I recently installed an Apachee Trigger in my TRR and like it. Dropped the trigger pull (adjustable, mine is at 14oz), removed creep, and no unintended firing.Quote:
Originally Posted by kludge
http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=520772
apacheetrigger@yahoo.com
Quote:
Originally Posted by fartsinpublic
The Apachee trigger kit is great! Easy to install and works as advertised.
+1 for the Apachee trigger. Was very easy to install and the difference is night and day.
hmm, I have a few semi auto 22s that might like this apache trigger thing, where can one get one pls?
As far as I'm aware, but what do I know, they are for AccuTrigger Mark IIs. I posted an email address higher up.Quote:
Originally Posted by Stockrex
That's my understanding, only for MKIIs with the accutrigger.Quote:
Originally Posted by fartsinpublic
+1 on the Apachee...took about a half hour to install...much better. I have mine set at 2# to match my .308 trigger pull right now. I'm pretty sure it could be set even lower, and the bolt removal works like original. Not quite as smooth as the Timney on my .308 but it's less than half the price.
Kludge--
Id be very surprised if those Anschutz triggers arent 2-3 OUNCES.