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I'm looking to upgrade just the sleeve, (don't know what it's really called). I have just a bit too much slop in the bolt when pulled out. Any suggestions or recommendations will be appreciated.
I just got my first bolt action, 111 Trophy Hunter XP in .30-06, and have painted the stock, HawkEye cheek riser , extended bolt handle, bedded the EGW scope base, Wheeler rings and Monstrum G3 long range scope...cause I'm a budget kinda guy.
Thnx for reading.
Bolt body is the correct term. PTG sells oversized bolt bodies. You will need to know the bolt raceway diameter. Therefore you will have to measure the I.D. of the rear action ring to find the dimension that will determine the bolt Outside Diameter. A machined inspection rod might work. You might be able to use shim stock around the current bolt body. Some Telescoping gauges if you have them.
Once you find out the exact inside diameter, subtract .002" and that will be your bolt body outside dimensions.
I have heard of aftermarket bolt bodies changing the trigger timing. It could go either way by improving or decaying the trigger hand off.
Many believe that trying to fit a bolt body tighter on a Savage is a waste of time. I prefer it but can't prove any benefits except my perception. If you are looking for a smoother bolt travel the oversize bolt handle can be the root cause. Try not to push the bolt handle in a way that it cocks the bolt. push forward while centering the bolt. I have used a hone to smooth the lug raceways out as most of the time they are scored pretty good from the machining process. That has smoothed out more than one actions bolt travel.
edited to remove bolt fluting recommendation.
I purchased a fluted bolt body from Gun shack and it fit and functions much better than the original one I had.
Quote:
Originally Posted by stomp442
I am glad your experience was better than mine. It depends a lot on the type of fluting I think. SSS bolt bodies always worked well. The three I had came from PT&G. None of them functioned as well as a smooth one. Savage is selling at least a couple of models with them and we have heard no complaints about them so it sounds like I may be a minority. After my experience I choose not to recommend them. Maybe I will keep that opinion to myself. Thanks for chiming in Stomp.
Yeah not sure. The one I purchased from GunShack is a Savage built part I believe. It works good enough I purchased a couple others for other savages I own, and they get compliments at the range all the time.
https://www.gunshack.com/savage-part...lt-body-108748
Do you have any details or information on how you honed your bolt lugs by chance? Is there a certain way or what stone (grit) did you use? Appreciate any help.Quote:
Originally Posted by Robinhood
Let my show what I stated and I will break it down.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bama110Tac
I have posted on this a couple of times. The bolt raceway is the bore that the bolt slides through. There is a broached area that the lugs slide in, down either side of the action.Quote:
I have used a hone to smooth the lug raceways out as most of the time they are scored pretty good from the machining process. That has smoothed out more than one actions bolt travel.
I use a quality diamond fine grit hone that fits with a little room to spare. I remove the trigger and sear or otherwise the sear will restrict the travel of the hone. You will need to stick your finger in the ejection port and slide it back and forth with a little to and fro action to get all of the high spots. Flip it over and repeat, the top side is a little more difficult because of the lack of material at the ejection port. Target the area the cocking piece pin rides on when cocking. On one of my post there may be pictures if the host didn't take them down.
https://www.dmtonlinestore.com/4-Dia...ne-P41C11.aspx
Red is the one I like. Blue is a little more coarse and requires a softer touch and the green is a little fine and takes more effort to accomplish anything.