1957 savage model 110...whats it worth

Hey all I am new to this forum but long time shooter. I have a Savage 110 in 30.06 that I believe is a 1957 it is serial number 3089 and has a small circle with SP in it and another with 11I in it. My dad bought me this for a gift from a store in Wyoming I believe. Gun is in great shape I just figured out how to adjust the trigger last night and man can you make it a hair trigger. I am wandering what the value of this gun is. I would put it an 8 on a scale of 1 to 10. No rust wood stock is in good shape. Has a metal butt plate that likes to leave bruises if you shoot it alot LOL. Also how if it isn't worth much I thought about a barrel swap and new stock. How big of a pain is it to switch barrels on these old ones? Thanks for any help you all can give me.

The value for anything, including that rifle, is whatever someone is willing to pay for it. That said, I have a 1960 110 in great shape with a vintage Weaver K4 scope (also in mint condition) and was offered $1K for the combo by a fellow at our local gun range. If you find someone who really likes those vintage Savage rifles, I'd say $600 isn't out of the question. I've seen a couple go for that on GunBroker. But if it's a rifle your dad bought for you, you might want to keep it. At least, I would.

I bought mine cheap locally and am having a custom 7x57 Mauser barrel made for it. The '06 barrel that was on it was toast. I think it got a lot of field time over the years. I can tell you I had to cut the original barrel nut off mine - first time I've ever had to do that. I hated cutting it because I wanted to preserve that old blued barrel nut, but I had no choice.

Those old barrels are a featherweight contour. If you send your old barrel into McGowans, they can match the contour at no extra charge. That's what I'm doing.

Out of curiosity, what did you do to adjust the trigger? Getting mine consistently and safely below 4.5 lbs. has been a challenge.

I found a trigger breakdown schematic someone posted, there is a sear adjustment screw on the trigger(action has to off the stock to see it) I screwed the adjustment screw in and kept checking it. It seemed as if their wasn't much going on and the holy cow it got real light in less than half a turn, so I played around with it until it seemed about like about 1.5 lbs or so. I will check tonight with a scale to verify. I also slammed but stock and racked bolt to see if it would fire. Its surprisingly a really nice trigger once adjusted. No need for aftermarket. I was looking at Criterion barrels for a replacement but have read that these older ones fit different than the newer ones and I really don't want to trash the value of what might be a collector piece.

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Originally Posted by Clayton78

I found a trigger breakdown schematic someone posted, there is a sear adjustment screw on the trigger(action has to off the stock to see it) I screwed the adjustment screw in and kept checking it. It seemed as if their wasn't much going on and the holy cow it got real light in less than half a turn, so I played around with it until it seemed about like about 1.5 lbs or so. I will check tonight with a scale to verify. I also slammed but stock and racked bolt to see if it would fire. Its surprisingly a really nice trigger once adjusted. No need for aftermarket. I was looking at Criterion barrels for a replacement but have read that these older ones fit different than the newer ones and I really don't want to trash the value of what might be a collector piece.

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Ah yes, the sear engagement screw. I'm intimately familiar with this old trigger system now that I've disassembled, stoned and polished and reassembled it approx. 16 times. :D If you got a good one, count yourself fortunate. Best I can do is 4-4.5 lbs. but it's smooth with no creep at all. Still trying to do better though.

As for the collector's value, everyone who considers these old 110's "collectors" will be dead and gone soon enough LOL. I could be wrong but I just don't see anyone my age (50's) or younger really ever having any interest in the original 110 Savages. They all grew up thinking Savages were cheap and crappy, surely not knowing that once upon a time they were extremely well built, attractive rifles.

All my rifles are users. I am not nor ever will be a collector, which is why it took me less than a day to decide to rebarrel my vintage old 110. But it's not that I don't have an appreciation for these old girls. Quite the contrary. And the idea that I could have such a good looking rifle in a 7x57 was more than I could bear. :D

Another pre-68! :cool:

Mine wears a 16I barrel stamp and is serial number 10xx (serial numbers started at 1000) so yours was the 2089th 110 off the assembly line!

Barrel swaps aren't as simple with pre-66 110s as with later versions as the bolt is shrouded and recesses in the barrel. You would, more than likely, need a custom made barrel if you plan to change, especially if you would desire to retain the open sights.

JMHO, if looking for one to modify, later models are much better platforms with strong aftermarket support.

I snickered when I read about the metal butt plate, matches my experience too. Helps if you shoot with same clothing as you'd have in the field. I can attest load testing in a t-shirt off the bench is no fun. Sissy pads help.

Congrats on a nice survivor.

Edit: Just checked mine, it wears a 16I stamp. You may want to PM forum member MadDog, he keeps a registry of older Savages.

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Originally Posted by Newtosavage

As for the collector's value, everyone who considers these old 110's "collectors" will be dead and gone soon enough LOL. I could be wrong but I just don't see anyone my age (50's) or younger really ever having any interest in the original 110 Savages. They all grew up thinking Savages were cheap and crappy, surely not knowing that once upon a time they were extremely well built, attractive rifles.

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Not 100% true as I’m south of 40 and love the old ones. Every deer camp is a decision as to which 1959 110L to take.

As for projects, I prefer round receiver side bolt release models. Have done a couple short action guns previously and have a 110BA in the works to be a 35 Whelen chassis gun.

To my knowledge the savage 110 always has been known as a budget offering to such an extent that it was named after its original purchase price.

If anything the post axis 110s have gained reputation as a 'middle' price range rifle.

I learned of the early 110s because apparently their extractor is different. That interests me. But my view of firearms is too utilitarian to pay much for it, to be honest.

Here are bolt comparisons for 12FV, 80s 110 LA, and pre-66...

https://i.ibb.co/6YCQKrh/bolts.jpg

Bolt heads, pre-66 on left and post on right...

https://i.ibb.co/SBB7FB5/boltheads.jpg

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Originally Posted by PhilC

Here are bolt comparisons for 12FV, 80s 110 LA, and pre-66...

https://i.ibb.co/6YCQKrh/bolts.jpg

Bolt heads, pre-66 on left and post on right...

https://i.ibb.co/SBB7FB5/boltheads.jpg

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After owning and using one, that old "mauser style" bolt face on the pre-66's is my favorite of all. I'm so glad I lucked into one and have had the chance to use it for a while. Those puppies shuck brass into the next county! I like it so much, I'm building a custom 7x57 Mauser on it and frankly can't wait to get that rifle put together and shooting.

I would clean that rifle well, buy or load some mild rounds, maybe a slip-on recoil pad and enjoy that rifle my dad gave me. It sounds to be in good condition. You might want to pass it down yourself one day. Plenty of inexpensive modern Savage rifles out there that are suitable for the latest stocks and barrels. Good Luck Clayton!