I have a Haymaker in 450 Bushmaster coming this week. I'll be hand loading for it eventually . Does anyone have certain amount of factory rounds or other ammo you use to break in a rifle before starting with hand loads.
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I have a Haymaker in 450 Bushmaster coming this week. I'll be hand loading for it eventually . Does anyone have certain amount of factory rounds or other ammo you use to break in a rifle before starting with hand loads.
Either here or on the Savage site there is a break in procedure .
I followed the Savage procedure pretty closely when breaking-in my Model 10 FCP, and it really came around after about 50 rounds or so.Quote:
Originally Posted by Shooter0302
Not everyone thinks it's necessary, but depending on the quality of the barrel it may help. With a factory barrel I think it's a good idea.
Savage FAQ
Although there may be different schools of thought on barrel break-in, this is what Precision Shooting Magazine recommends:
STEP 1 (repeated 10 times)
- Fire one round
- Push wet patches soaked with a powder solvent through the bore
- Push a brush through the bore (5 times in each direction)
- Push dry patches through the bore (2 times)
- Push wet patches soaked with a copper solvent through the bore
- Push a brush through the bore (5 times in each direction)
- Push dry patches through the bore (2 times)
- Push a patch with 2 drops of oil through the bore
STEP 2 (repeated 5 times)
- Fire a 3 shot group
- Repeat the cleaning procedure from STEP 1 after each group
STEP 3 (repeat 5 times)
- Fire a 5 shot group
- Repeat the cleaning procedure from STEP 1
They recommend the use of a patch with 2 drops of oil after the cleaning so that you are not shooting with a dry bore. It is also advisable to use a powder solvent and copper solvent from the same manufacturer to be sure they are chemically compatible.
https://service.savagearms.com/hc/en...-in-procedure-
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I recommend a break in with Savage rifles, only because both of mine would have benefited a lot from it. Both of mine (Axis and 12BVSS) shot average when new. After 200-400 rounds both became very accurate shooters, 1/2MOA (which is as good as I can shoot on most days).
So what about using the Tubbs firelapping kit? Before, after or in place of the break in procedure?
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I wouldn't run abrasives through a barrel unless there were a problem that indicated it's use. Certainly not as a "routine" for new barrels, whether "factory" production or high-end.Th
Purpose of "break-in" is to eliminate large amounts of copper fouling build-up. Allowing layer upon layer in a new barrel makes it more difficult to remove. Depending on the condition of the barrel, this may take relatively few shots- or many.
On a factory barrel, I would do one-shot and clean until no copper is evident. Then 3 shots, clean until no copper. Then 5 shots, clean... After that, shoot it.
Premium barrels (some are lapped at the manufacturer) usually require little to no "break-in".
No reason to use Tubbs for break inQuote:
Originally Posted by justascout
To answer your inquiry about factory ammo vs. handloads for break in, I broke in my last two barrels with handloads using similar procedures to those posted above. Both barrels are shooting fine. It wasn't for any particular reason, I just don't buy much factory ammo.
Does anyone use Butchs Bore shine during the Break In process?
Does a very good job of removing copper but it has a gawd awful smell that permeates the room for hours!Quote:
Originally Posted by Bama110Tac
Just follow the Savage recommended process first.
If you still have an accuracy problem then consider using one of the abrasive products. I used Iosso paste on my model 12 and it helped copper fouling. BEWARE, you can ruin a barrel using abrasives, including the Tubbs fire lap process.
I broke in my new 10 BA Stealth yesterday using the Savage process. Minus the copper remover because I forgot the bottle.
1. Otis Ripcords and some accessory items make it a lot easier.
2. It’s a loooong process. Especially in the sun.
3. The rifle is stupidly accurate and the trigger quickly grew on my. I come from Timney triggers. And Gieselle.
4. The Fab Defense stock needs to go. At best it’s ok, more of a meh. Probably go with a Magpul PRS.
5. Need a better scope than the Hi-lux Phenom. The tree reticle is way too busy for me and I’m thinking 5-30 is too much scope for the .308.
6. The MDT mag that came with the gun sucks. The Magpul AC functioned much better and smoothly with the rifle.
7. The Armageddon Gear Precision Rifle Sling is a work or art.
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If your purpose for break in was to reduce copper fouling you may have to do it again. But, if it shoots well I'd leave it alone and just suffer with the copper.
Why is a 30 scope too much for a .308? I like having a 25x on mine and would not mind more. The only time I dial it down is when the mirage really kicks up.